Anyone re-charging primers?

farmboy

farmboy

cookie man
Some primers have been available for awhile, but are expensive. Recently while looking at the NOE website I saw that they are making a tool to recharge primers. So, I bought one to try. Looks simple enough, just don't know what to use for primer compound. I have seen that some had used "strike anywhere matches" which are no longer available. Today I saw on "Powder Valleys " that they had an item that was made to resolve this problem. It's called Sharpshooter Rimfire Reloader at $19.95. Anyone else tried this?
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
Home page for them directly.
Actually it's probably the primer cup tool page .
22lrreloader.com

Prime-All Repriming Compound

IMPORTANT: YOU MUST BE 21 YEARS OF AGE TO ORDER PRIME-ALL REPRIMING COMPOUND! By adding this item to your cart and proceeding to checkout, you acknowledge you are at least 21 years of age. Prime any casing, anywhere, including muzzle loader caps, and have the ability to reprime any old primer...
22lrreloader.com 22lrreloader.com

I have a BP cap maker tool that works fine from them .
I'm told it's a corrosive but reliable ignition compound.
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
farmboy said:
Just watched the video and it looks easy to do. Think I'll try it.
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Yes, it's easy and all the chemicals come in that one convenient package. Just keep in mind the reloading compound in the prime-all kit is referred to as "H48", which contains potassium chloride and is corrosive. If you go this route, remember to clean your gun promptly after each shooting session.
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
Robert Shimizu said:
Yes, it's easy and all the chemicals come in that one convenient package. Just keep in mind the reloading compound in the prime-all kit is referred to as "H48", which contains potassium chloride and is corrosive. If you go this route, remember to clean your gun promptly after each shooting session.
Click to expand...
Potassium chloride, not chloride.
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
Ides ,ates , and iums make a huge difference in this level of chemistry.

Theres a bit about margarine that surfaces occasionally being one molecule from paint or glue , I don't remember which now . Sodium is a toxic heavy metal, chlorine is toxic heavier than air gas, and oxygen plays a significant role in life . Most life on the planet would end without sodium chloride . O³ will kill you just a quick as CO and it's mate CO² . H²0 is pretty important, without dihydrogen oxide there would be no coffee . H²0² ........ H²0S smells bad , H²0S⁴ makes great electrolyte for a battery . So do lable all of your containers, and watch ides , ates , and iums .
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
RBHarter said:
Ides ,ates , and iums make a huge difference in this level of chemistry.

Theres a bit about margarine that surfaces occasionally being one molecule from paint or glue , I don't remember which now . Sodium is a toxic heavy metal, chlorine is toxic heavier than air gas, and oxygen plays a significant role in life . Most life on the planet would end without sodium chloride . O³ will kill you just a quick as CO and it's mate CO² . H²0 is pretty important, without dihydrogen oxide there would be no coffee . H²0² ........ H²0S smells bad , H²0S⁴ makes great electrolyte for a battery . So do lable all of your containers, and watch ides , ates , and iums .
Click to expand...
The spelling correction robot is out to kill us! People scoffed at the notion of Skynet, but here it is....
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
Jeff H said:
Hmmm, how far a leap from correcting your spelling to correcting your thoughts?
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I think the spelling correction robot is leaving the thought correction task to our respective governments, if history is any indication.

BTW, if you want to get more info on reloading primers, visit aardvarkreloading.com. They have some non-corrosive primer formulations that range from fairly simple to deep (hazardous) chemistry.
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
Jeff H said:
Starting to look like a realistic option.
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I am looking into aardvark’s formulation of their EPH20. The majority of the mess entails one relatively non-hazardous reaction. The product of this reaction results in a non-explosive powder, which, when combined with three similarly non-explosive components and activated, produces a functional primer.
 
358156 hp

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I've done this with the old "strike anywhere" matches, the directions can be found in the old U.S. Army "Improvised Munitions Handbook". That method did work, but I only tried it for a short time, mainly because I've always been the type to buy a lot during good times to carry me over the bad ones, and I keep plenty of primers. Surprisingly, this practice still works. The priming compound is intriguing and I may try it again for old times sake.
 
glassparman

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Just a crazy question . . . what would make a primer compound liquid again?

I know it's just hypothetical but I'm pulling apart a bunch of damaged .22 rf that I have picked up over the years. They are all unfired and just have damaged cases or projos due to jams.

How would you liquify the priming compound again to use in another fashion?
 
R

Robert Shimizu

New Member
Jeff H said:
I don't know, but I'm guessing melting it won't be a viable option.:oops:
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You can use a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water dropped into the case after removal of the bullet and powder. Just a drop; just enough to make the priming compound a paste. How you get it out of the rim is up to you. My understanding is the compound is RELATIVELY inert when in paste form. Having said that, I’m glad it’s you that is trying this procedure and not me. Let us know how it works out.
 
glassparman

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Thanks Robert. I'm not about to try it, I was more less just adding to the discussion thread. Personally, I like my fingers and face just the a way they are! LOL
 
T

TomSp8

Active Member
Actually played with this about 2 years or so ago. I found and used old paper roll caps. Removed the primer anvil with a pick, flattened the primer with a flat punch, inserted a trimmed out paper cap, reinserted the anvil carefully. Cant remember if I used one cap or two. Also played with wetting them with Acetone and peeling one paper layer off. The acetone also kept the compound together if I cut too close. Again, cant remember what worked best, now. Was a pain cutting them out round so found a leather punch that was just about right to cut them out. Large primers only, too big for small primers. Made about 10, and 8 went off with just an empty case loaded. Loaded 10 more with my standard bullseye load in .45acp and had about the same results. The ones that worked did, indeed, ignite the powder as it should. And yes, definitely considered a corrosive primer. Prompt cleanup is strongly suggested.
 
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