Article: The Remarkable Roundball is Right for Breechloading Rifles Too

[Elric]

The Remarkable Roundball is Right for Breechloading Rifles Too | Cast Bullet Association | Online Forum | Bullet Casting Forum

By Frank Marshall, Jr., exert from 'Speaking Frankly', Fran

castbulletassoc.org

 

[Spindrift]

Great read, thanks!

 

[CZ93X62]

Frank Marshall never steers you wrong.

I've done a bit of this in revolvers, but not in long arms. #00 Buck sized to .316" did well atop 1.2 grains of WW-231 in my S&W Model 16-4. They hit pretty low to the sights, giving about half the front blade's elevated in sight alignment got things pretty close on paper. Same deal in my 357s, a .375" RB sized at .359" produced similar results using that regimen, 1.5 grains of the same fuel. I've whacked a few ground squirrels and jackrabbits with the loads, and these loads included my first usage of Lee Liquid Alox. Just a drop where the bullet sat just under the case mouth edge.

 

[obssd1958]

I had a SMLE Number1 Mk3 that I took to NCBS years ago. The bore was closer to .315 than .311 and I just wanted to make up some fun loads. I loaded 8gr of Unique under a .319 round ball, then put Bore Butter on top. Lots of fun, and accurate enough at 50 yards to shoot clay birds hung on chicken wire!

 

[L Ross]

Back when I shot Cowboy, one of my Open Tops shot 7" high with a conventional 200 grain bullet and full charge of black. A .433" RB seated over a full case of black and a greasy felt wad hit about 2" high.

 

[Missionary]

"Pumpkin Balls" took care of alot of needs for hundreds of years and happily still do.

 

[Bret4207]

Ive got Franks collected writings on a CD, "Speaking Frankly". Got it from CBA some time back. Great stuff, Frank was a treasure.

 

[Glaciers]

I've been thinking about parlor-plinking loads with round balls for a while, and Elric, your posting Frank's article seems to be a catalyst for that venture. I have a LEE .360 and 457 molds, as well as a box of Speer .440 dia balls. Have to break out the molds and start breaking them in. Might need to powder coat the 457 to increase the diameter to work in the Marlin 45/70. Need a mold for the 44's yet, and the 32.

I'm going to do some casting for the 9mm this morning with LEE 124 TC & 105 SWC molds as well as a NOE 135 round flat that is hollow pointed weighing in at 128 with the hp pins. Looks like a good time to add in the round ball molds.

 

[Outpost75]

I would recommend Lee round molds in every caliber for which you have a gun that fits. Frugal of powder and lead and they perform exactly as Frank stated. In a .410 shotgun a .390 ball will drop of its own weight through almost any full choke barrel. A true cylinder bore can use a .400 to .425" ball of pure lead, depending upon what your particular barrel "slugs." You must avoid hard lead and oversized balls which will not drop entirely through the barrel of their own weight, lest you burst the muzzle, which I have done. But after cutting off the barrel behind the split, recrowning and replacing the front bead, the little gun is more useful than it ever was!

 

[CZ93X62]

OK--NOW I'm motivated. Some of the slower-twist rifles might get some RB shooting this coming year. This seems like a great way to turn a deer rifle into a varmint-whacker.

 

[Glaciers]

Okay Outpost 75, in your post it appears you are referring to the 410 only and not dropping a ball down the muzzle of a revolver. In Frank's article he's suggesting 5 thousands over groove diameter. Of course we are talking pure or only slightly sweetened lead.
My confusion comes from "44-40" on the target. I was on track with your 410 example until I saw the target. Just wanting clarity for my understanding.

I was going for the LEE 6 cavity round ball molds, but find they are just out of stock just about everywhere. I have a 2 cavity in .360 and .457, but the 6 cavity molds need to replace them and add a .440 and a .33 molds as well. But I will start with the 2 cavity mold as they are currently in possession and on the hot plate getting warmed up.

CZ, I was at Thanksgiving dinner last night (which was one of the best I can remember) and brought the subject of having round ball matches with our sixguns. Had a little explaining to do, but sound like everyone is interested. Also trying to get interest in 10-22 matches at 50 and 100 yards. We would use cans, golf balls and 12 gage shotgun shells for targets.

 

[CZ93X62]

The RB/revolver stunt work flowed from the cap & ball revolver stuff I used to mess around with. 20+ years ago, I had replica 1851, 1860, and 1861 Colts in the safe. Using RBs, those 36 caliber beasties were both very accurate to 25-30 yards, even given full-cylinder loads of 3F Goex Flaming Dirt BP. The '60 in 44 was almost as good. Hornady .360" RBs in my 38s and 357s shot nearly as good as the 36 C&Bs, as long as you kept the velocities in the 36 RB realm, 700-750 FPS. The 454" RBs did about as well in 45 Colt, using the same speed limits--and in 45 ACP they shot REMARKABLY well--though the pistols had to be run "William Tell Fashion" (manual slide manipulation). These will get a go-around in the 625, you can bet on that.

 

[Rushcreek]

I have used .310" round balls in 30-30 rifles for squirrel hunting for years. Recently I have developed round ball loads for my 44-40 and 38-55 rifles using .430" and .377" rbs. Pure lead, lubed lightly with LLA over .5cc's( 4.8grs) of Bullseye in each. I load them singly in lever actions, but my Mauser 30-30 will feed one from the magazine with a light crimp. They all are head shot accurate at pecan tree range.

 

[KHornet]

The Remarkable Roundball is Right for Breechloading Rifles Too | Cast Bullet Association | Online Forum | Bullet Casting Forum

By Frank Marshall, Jr., exert from 'Speaking Frankly', Fran

castbulletassoc.org

Been off linee for the past few months, because of lack of a computer, and a death in the family. Seems right to come back with a response to this thread. Great article, and I have played with a number of the loads recommendd. Have also played with 2 and 3 ball loads in 38S, 357, 45-70, 444M, etc. All are fun, easy to load, but easy to double charge, so obviouslly, care in loading is essenital.
K-Hornet

 

[Ben]

So happy to see you back with us Paul ! !

Merry Christmas,

Ben

 

[KHornet]

Happy to be back Ben, Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Paul

 

[BBerguson]

On a slightly different note, I have a bunch of Lee 105gr round nose for 9mm that don’t work very well in 9mm and they aren’t too far from a round ball... They may be perfect in light 38 special loads, especially for my daughter and wife to practice with. I have a much better truncated nose mold and also sold the Ruger P85 that they shot well in, not so good in my Glock 17.

When I switch the dillon over to 38/357 I’m going to try some...

 

[KHornet]

Many Many years ago I loaded a Rb in a 30-30, 340 Savage for bushy tails and cheap 25 yd paper punching. Just a little flare on the case mouth,dab of lube on the ball and just enough crimp to firmly hold the ball. Small charge of BE, started low and worked up about less than 1/2 gr. until I got accuracy. (wasnt a whale of a lot). Accurate to 25yd. Slow to load, but fun to shoot. Lost that rifle in the China River in Alaska, along with my canoe and nearly me. But that is another story.
Paul

 

[StrawHat]

I looked at the Lee website, all the six cavity round ball molds are back ordered.

Track of the Wolf seems to have some.

Big Lube has two, .380 and .454, both six cavity.

I have run three two cavity molds at a time while casting to make the bullets pile up.

Kevin

 

[Elric]

Read the Frank Marshall articles, he related sizing down a .380 round ball down to .358 [IIRC] so it would align better with parallel sides. He didn't mention it, but doing a slight flare to start it, seat to length, then kiss it with a taper crimp outta do it just fine. Little Alox loving slathered on the nose...