Articles for casting .22cal bullets?......

waco

Springfield, Oregon
I remember some really good info for casting 22's somewhere but can't find them now. anyone else remember where they were?
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Will. I looked there and had trouble finding them. That's were I thought it was as well.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
I just bought a Lyman 225462 hoping to load in a .222. Those cavities are tiny! I'll be watching this thread too.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
Jon Goin's articles.
the 22's ain't as hard to cast as everybody makes them out to be.
I freaked out at first and fought trying to keep the mold all heated up, which of course gave me a bunch of weight variations.
I finally gave all that up and just got the mold warm and run with it.
the mold found it's settled down temp and I just went with it.
I did find that doing really long runs and just keeping a settled in pace produced very small weight variations.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
Good to know. Hey good thing I pour with a Rowell #2, I won't run out of lead filling those cavities!
 

Ian

Notorious member
I don't think I would do well ladling .22s. My RCBS and Lee moulds require quite a hustle. So does the MP NATO 4-banger I borrowed. What I like to do is make two piles of casings, one for practice, one for real. The ones in the "for real" pile only go there when the mould gets to perfect cruising altitude and I'm holding temp, timing, and the overall heat steady. Just because they look good doesn't mean they're all the same size and weight.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
Ian, not following your statement... why does not ladle casting work for you? Not fast enough? How about pouring more heat onto the sprue plate? Run the lead hotter?

Never done this small, please educamate me...
 

Ian

Notorious member
I'm slow with a ladle compared to bottom pour. Yes, you can heat the top, but you have to heat the blocks, too, and I try to do that with high cyclic rates. I run the Lee six-banger and MP brass four-banger at 4-5 cycles per minute, complete with a large sprue puddle and fan to quench the sprue. 4-5 pours per minute is just not something I can do with a ladle counting the ladle handling time.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
es, you can heat the top, but you have to heat the blocks, too, and I try to do that with high cyclic rates.

Thanks. Maybe run the pot a whole lot hotter? I'm looking at tiny cavities and a large mass of iron... I can foresee problems.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
As Ian said, casting rhythm is the key. Cooking the tin out of your alloy isn't the answer. I crank up the pot temp all the way to about 720 from 700 for small bullets and HP's.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
I just tried to do a run a Lee 22's(newer design) from a two cavity mold. This thing is not worth the $20 I spent on it.
I'm not even sure why I fired it up. I just wanted to cast I guess. 70+% rejects.
I don't even really shoot cast in my Fireball or my .22-250
I put it away and cast from an Accurate 44 mold I had cut. 2 cavities are a copy of the Lee 310gr only plain base, and the other two are a 240gr RNFP with TL grooves in it for using BLL in my 1894 lever gun. 7-8gr of Unique is the normal charge.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I use the rcbs 2 cavity mold.
I also use a 4/6/90 alloy, you can't pressure pour that combo unless you want fins.
I don't even mess with the sprues I pop the mold open, flip it over and knock everything into a pile, close it and go back to the pot for more lead.
 

Chris

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, I get the idea and it will get me started. I will weigh bullets and that may help me refine the technique.

Total thread drift: anybody play with subsonic or .22 LR equivalent loads in Hornet, .222, .223 etc?
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Waco, it isn't the mould. I have both the two and six cavity versions and they make excellent bullets if you do a pre-heat and run them FAST.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
One of my little tricks is to over preheat the mould a bit, and then cast at a comfortable rate to allow the mould to acclimate downwards to the temp it wants. I know it sounds crazy, but sometimes backwards works better. This usually helps me get a feel for a new mould just a little bit quicker somehow.
 
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