Johnny, are you looking for a premade alloy to buy, or are you planning on mixing your own? One suggestion is to keep any tin & antimony balanced, you shouldn't have more tin than antimony or your alloy can get difficult to work with. I had that problem early on when I mistakenly believed that if some tin is good, then more tin must be better. I was having fillout issues and trying to adjust the alloy to cast at lower temps, when all I really needed to do for better fillout was raise my pot temps a bit and cast faster to keep the mould temp up as well. I'm now casting at 720* and preheating my moulds better. Some times this is all that is necessary for fillout issues. I didn't need anywhere near that much tin.
I too, use a lot of scrap for casting, and between that and powder coating get away with a lot less alloy development & testing than I was with conventional lubing. I can't recall the last time I added tin (pewter) to my alloy. If you have a specific purpose in mind beyond basic target work and stress relief then you could be fine with minor tweaks to what you're already using.What are you using now, and how would you like your bullets to perform differently? You can get pure lead and tin (alone) to perform at about the same level as Lyman #2 if needed. I used to favor harder alloys for target work, especially with 357 magnums, but my range scrap runs around bhn 12 or so (LBT tester), and that works fine for me with powder coat, if I were using conventional lube I would bump that up a mite.
In either case I would be really picky about my bullet sizing. My fussiness here is pretty simply, using clean chamber throats (revolver) my bullets must not drop through freely but must require a slight to moderate push through the throats with a suitable wooden dowel, or even an unsharpened (nonsharpened?) pencil.. Also not acceptable is having to pound the bullets through, even with the palm of my hand and the stick.