I have decided that I want to tinker with my old .54 Cal T/C Renegade. Currently I'm looking for a good conical bullet to cast my own; Accurate Mold 54-375B, 55-430M, Lee 380 REAL or Lyman Great Plains Bullet. . .not sure which, but these are a few I'm considering. What I would like to know is what lube are you fellas using for your black powder shooting? Currently I have on hand; 666+1, Ben's Red and I'm getting ready to mix a batch of Ben's Liquid Lube. . .any of these work as good in black powder rifles? I would like to have a "one do-all" lube, but that never works out in my favor. Let me know what you all think. Thank you.
Black powder boolit lube.
- Thread starter OFFSHORE
- Start date
RBHarter
West Central AR
Don't use anything in BP that's petroleum based . It takes carbon fouling to a level somewhere between cooked oil on a diesel head and concrete .
Soft and gooey for the win . 25/75 olive oil and bees wax is a quick place to start . Some folks like animal fats and bees wax , lard and assorted tallows , beef , sheep , goat mixed about the same with the Bees wax work too . In the cold there's nothing wrong with plain old white Crisco grease .
Animal or vegetable based . The idea is to keep the BP fouling wet so it scraps away or washes out easily .
Soft and gooey for the win . 25/75 olive oil and bees wax is a quick place to start . Some folks like animal fats and bees wax , lard and assorted tallows , beef , sheep , goat mixed about the same with the Bees wax work too . In the cold there's nothing wrong with plain old white Crisco grease .
Animal or vegetable based . The idea is to keep the BP fouling wet so it scraps away or washes out easily .
RBHarter
West Central AR
Here's a link for some uncouth , but knowledgeable guys . The forum isn't for everyone , but the knowledge is there .
http://gunslingersgulch.com/index.php?topic=3205.0
http://gunslingersgulch.com/index.php?topic=3205.0
I tried going to this link, but couldn't locate an area that discussed bullet lube. If you could, let me know under which topic line that I would find this and if the site will let a guest use the search function I would like to check it out.
This recipe seems simple enough. Now, how are you applying this to the slug. . .press, pan or finger lubing?
fiver
Well-Known Member
however you want.
I wipe it on by hand since I shoot like 10 rounds of BP a year in the rifles.
we mostly use it on the cylinders of the revolvers so we wipe it on by hand there too.
it's thicker than Crisco but not as hard as most press type bullet lubes so you don't need any heat to make it flow.
it's easy to make softer or harder to adjust for your batch of wax and you can put the viscosity anywhere you want by simply adjusting the ratio a little bit.
I wipe it on by hand since I shoot like 10 rounds of BP a year in the rifles.
we mostly use it on the cylinders of the revolvers so we wipe it on by hand there too.
it's thicker than Crisco but not as hard as most press type bullet lubes so you don't need any heat to make it flow.
it's easy to make softer or harder to adjust for your batch of wax and you can put the viscosity anywhere you want by simply adjusting the ratio a little bit.
Maven
Well-Known Member
You may want to try Stumpy's Moose Snot, a home-brewed lube that's easy to make. It's soft enough to apply to conicals and patches [by hand] and doesn't require you to swab your bore after every shot. Btw, you can substitute canola, olive, or peanut oil for the specified castor oil with no ill effects at all.
RBHarter
West Central AR
Black powder >> wads patches lubes >>where are all the lube recipes .
5th one down at 20 per page on page 12 .
It's kind of a low volume forum , no stickies really , it's a lot like here ......but with dirty hands , no filters and beer ........
The link takes me direct to the thread . It was started by Fly , you might know him from CB .
5th one down at 20 per page on page 12 .
It's kind of a low volume forum , no stickies really , it's a lot like here ......but with dirty hands , no filters and beer ........
The link takes me direct to the thread . It was started by Fly , you might know him from CB .
This sounds pretty interesting too. . .I like the part about not having to swab the bore so often! I will look this up. Thank you.
This sounds like my kind of place. . .except I'll pass on the beer for a tall cool glass of Knob Creek, thank you! LOL
I will try and check it out again. Thanks.
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
Years ago GOEX wanted to buy my formula for "BaaBeeBay" It is a Mutton, Beeswax and Bayberry formula
The problem was there was no large source for Mutton Tallow ( and there is no replacement!) They were going to import it from Australia but the tariffs were outrageous !
Jim
BTW Turner Kirtland Still Sells 1 lb containers of Pure Mutton tallow
The problem was there was no large source for Mutton Tallow ( and there is no replacement!) They were going to import it from Australia but the tariffs were outrageous !
Jim
BTW Turner Kirtland Still Sells 1 lb containers of Pure Mutton tallow
Last edited:
Maven
Well-Known Member
The following BP (muzzle loader) lube recipe is primarily for Offshore, but also for all interested ML shooters. I know that we each have our favorite patch & bullet lubes, but Stumpy's works very well. I.e., it doesn't degrade accuracy, works well in cold weather, and allows as many as a dozen shots (using real BP) without having to wipe the bore between shots. Enjoy!
Stumpy's Moose Snot
Beeswax, 2 oz.
Castor Oil,* 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water or a double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a Vise-Grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool for 30 minutes.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
*Use any vegetable oil, e.g., canola, olive, peanut
Stumpy's Moose Snot
Beeswax, 2 oz.
Castor Oil,* 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap, 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water or a double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a Vise-Grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool for 30 minutes.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
*Use any vegetable oil, e.g., canola, olive, peanut
Chandler
Member
I have just about every wax here you can mention and wonder if anyone has an application or parameter usage link I can look at like a alloy vs pressure sort of chart. I can add fragrance and always wondered if it could be detected. I always used the book/store bought lubes but this seems to me an area where my Lyman 4500 could have a little fun. My books are old and the old formula are what they recommend so tried and true works for me. I never used a lube that had me cleaning after each shot. Just curious.
fiver
Well-Known Member
fragrance is very much detected when the round is fired.
you do want to be careful about some scents or about mixing some scents... coffee and vanilla are nice the melons not so much.
you want to watch the mixing for sure or you end up with ass crack sweat lube instead of a nice sweet melon flavor.
you do want to be careful about some scents or about mixing some scents... coffee and vanilla are nice the melons not so much.
you want to watch the mixing for sure or you end up with ass crack sweat lube instead of a nice sweet melon flavor.
Ian
Notorious member
Ooooh, I remember ACSL. Not good. Felix lube has a distinct smell; so distinct in fact that years ago a stranger recognized it at the pistol range. Lavender is nice.
Bullet lube is a sum of its parts. Wax is only part of it. Pressure/velocity vs. wax type isn't really a factor, even straight mineral oil can withstand 4000 fps., waxes are selected more on the carbon chain length and branch characteristics and are blended to give a certain viscosity index under pressure (viscosity index being a function of time, temperature, and viscosity). Anything over about 2200 fps at my house needs to be reinforced with some kind of metal soap to handle the pressure without blowing out. Living next to the front gates of hell doesn't help bullet lube, either, heat kills the viscosity and reduces the velocity potential.
Black powder lube is its own animal, being compounded to peacefully coexist with a propellant that leaves half of itself behind every shot and still leave the bore consistent from shot to shot so accuracy is possible.
Bullet lube is a sum of its parts. Wax is only part of it. Pressure/velocity vs. wax type isn't really a factor, even straight mineral oil can withstand 4000 fps., waxes are selected more on the carbon chain length and branch characteristics and are blended to give a certain viscosity index under pressure (viscosity index being a function of time, temperature, and viscosity). Anything over about 2200 fps at my house needs to be reinforced with some kind of metal soap to handle the pressure without blowing out. Living next to the front gates of hell doesn't help bullet lube, either, heat kills the viscosity and reduces the velocity potential.
Black powder lube is its own animal, being compounded to peacefully coexist with a propellant that leaves half of itself behind every shot and still leave the bore consistent from shot to shot so accuracy is possible.