Copper remover

dromia

Active Member
C2R, water based and the most effective copper/bore cleaner I have ever used.

Failing that I use Ed's Red and ammonia patch and patch about, cheaper and as effective as any "branded" ammonia cleaner.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Industrial strength ammonia (janitorial grade at hardware store) works fine. I leave it in a few minutes at a time, works
great, dirt cheap. A couple of Hoppe's #9 patches afterwards and done. CR10 is great, too.
Hoppes #9 will take it out, but slowly.

Bill
 

Bret4207

St Lawrence river valley, NY
Thanks to all. I'm trying Sweets first. It's on the way along with a catalog from Brownells ($10.00). Been reading Brownells catalog since the late 60's, can't see "everything" on a website.

Bill, I had some strong ammonia on hand some years back just for this that I'd forgotten. No clue whatever happened to it. Might have used it for cleaning!
 

porthos

Member
sweets will get out copper better than anything. however, it can ruin a bbl. faster than anything else. i used it many years ago; not anymore. i don't think that there is a competive benchrest shooter that will use it. i belive that many use Wipe-Out now
 

Freischütz

New Member
I have a swedish Mauser that copper fouls easily. Strong ammonia from ACE or OMC Engine Tuner both work well. I leave them in the barrel of 30 minutes max, pour out the solution and check its colour, and repeat as necessary.
 

Sig556r

Active Member
hoppes elite works fine for me, but my rifles don't get really bad copper fouling, so not sure if it'll work on heavy accumulation
 

CZ93X62

Redlands, Kalifornistan
I don't shoot many jacketed bullets, other than 223/5.56 and 22-250 in my rat rifles. Fortunately, none of these barrels copper-foul very badly. I got away from using Sweet's or other 30% Stronger Ammonia-based cleaners, out of concern that dozens of 15-minute dwell durations of these liquids on metals might equate to an overnight stay and resulting metal etching or damage. I use the "Wipe Out" bore foam after a hunt, then clean with Hoppe's #9 and leave the bore damp with Hoppe's and the rifle muzzle-down in the safe. I check the bores every month or so, patch out the Hoppe's and it is always at least slightly blue. I don't think any reasonable method ever gets ALL of the copper fouling out of a barrel's metal--I think it is a condition that you manage reasonably to maintain an accuracy standard, and call it "Good" from there.