On the 1911, dominant hand as high as it will go against the grip safety, and second finger hard up under the trigger
guard. Two schools of though on dominant thumb placement, either on the safety or just pointing straight downrange.
I do the second. Non-dominant hand wraps onto grip, index finger hard up under the trigger guard, thumb pointing
downrange at the target.
Two stances dominate, try both. Stiffen dominant arm, some like elbow locked, I have mine slightly bent, but muscles
tensioned - a push on the gun. Non-dominant arm, elbow low, pulling into the dominant hand. Dominant side foot about
12" back from the dominant foot, which give you the shoulder distance difference to have the non-dominant arm bent, dominant arm
straight or nearly so. Feet a shoulder width apart.
Alternative stance: Square up to the target, feet a shoulder width apart. Grip the same, but both arms out, elbows locked
or nearly so. This is called Isosceles, for the isosceles triangle with equal side lengths. This is particularly recommended when
wearing body armor, square up your armor to the threat.
The first is called Weaver stance, although this is a misnomer, Deputy Weaver used both the first and second at various times
and he said that "The Weaver Stance" was really just the idea of two hands on the gun and gun up at eye level using the
sights in fast, combat type shooting. This was hugely innovative in speed shooting in the
1950s when he proved it was fastest and most accurate. Previous theory was to "point shoot by just looking where you shoot",
which is pretty debunked beyond 2-3 yds.
Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. Then dry fire some more. No longer than 5 minutes at a stretch, you lose concentration and time is
wasted. You want to see the front sight PERFECTLY crisp. If you cannot, get different glasses or a pinhole device like the
Lyman Hawkeye, which is an AMAZING aid for imperfect vision.
Touch the trigger. Take out the slack. Hold your breath after two or three deep breaths and half exhale. Work up a pattern to
the front sight motion, increase trigger pressure a tiny bit (1/4th of trigger pull wt is a good place to start) as the sights are aligned
perfectly. As they drift off, hold that pressure, freeze trigger finger, then apply a tiny bit more after you get it to line up again. Keep this
up until the shot breaks, which will be at perfect alignment. If you run out of air before it breaks, release pressure, drop the gun down
from target, relax, take a few deep breaths and start again. Let the shot happen, do not MAKE it happen. After the shot, release the pull
just until the trigger resets and start the next pull.
For IPSC, fast combat shooting, do all of this, just very quickly. REALLY.
Ian, my best solution to grip change when pulling the trigger was to pull the bottom two
fingers on the trigger hand as tightly as I could grip. If no more strength left, cannot add
motion by accident, at least that is my theory, worked for me on "milking the grip".
Bill