Flair tool mod II

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Got the second version of the check flair tool made. This is the absolute cats ass in flair tools. Way better than mod I.
No fiddling to center a check. They come right off with no tools needed. Press ram goes full stroke. I adjusted the anvil in the press to just contact the punch with no check, this guarantees firm pressure applied to flair the check. No problem for a loading press, it places far less strain on the press than many tasks we do every day.

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The flairing punch sitting in place of a shell holder. Phone camera decided to focus on the ram, not the nose of the punch but it is well polished to 400 grit.

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New check sitting on punch waiting to be flaired. I was worried they might tend to fall off but so far that hasn't been an issue.
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Press ram at full extension. You can see the base of the check firmly against the flat base of the anvil die. One anvil die will do all calibers, just need a separate punch.

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The anvil die and punch. Pretty simple to machine, this took just 1.5 hours. With time I could get that down, I had to change some gears for the threading.

I think this is going to see lots of use. Certainly quieter than the hammer and punch I was using, far less fiddly than the setup I made earlier today. I bet even Rick would use this one.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Actually Rick is patiently waiting for his 30 caliber punch and anvil to arrive in the mail? :D
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
BTW, not just flair the sides of the cup but also press the bottom of the check flat so that when installed it is completely flat against the bullet base and perfectly square to the bullet. :D
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Be patient and I can hand deliver a set to you in a few weeks.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Why? I'm used to a mess, so is my wife. My bench hasn't been seen in quite a while, it is buried under piles of "stuff".
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
?? All die boxes that were used cleaned, all tools used cleaned, all shelves cleaned & straightened, bench top's cleaned and waxed, floor mopped etc., etc.. Every time the shop get's used, how else could ya keep up with it? :confused: That way every time ya go in there everything is clean, neat and in it's place ready to go.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Brad,
I likes this one! I think the flattening of the bases of the check is too often over looked....( I know I pass it by too often) "Flat" GC bases have to improve bullet launch!
Jim
 

Ian

Notorious member
I don't know about pre-flattening being an advantage. 30-50K psi does a pretty good job. Lots of things I don't fret over too much since I started really making an effort to recover and examine fired bullets. Other things as a result of that I DO fret over, like hidden voids in the base of the casting.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Yes, the pressure will push the check against the bullet base but since you have crimped the sides of the check against and into the check shank where is the extra metal gonna go if it wasn't installed flat against the bullet base before the big light comes on?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Thanks Jon.

I want to play with the angle on the punch. At 15° it almost over flairs the check. Makes it easy to get on the bullets but they can be a bit harder to size down. I could easily see where a nose first sizer with little lead in taper might not let the check enter.

I will look at 10° to start then go from there. It is a matter of finding the right amount of flair to get the job done but no more than that.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I am no trig expert by any means but it looks to me like changing from a 15° angle to 10° will reduce the outside dimension of the top edge of a flaired check by .010. That is significant.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I am no trig expert by any means but it looks to me like changing from a 15° angle to 10° will reduce the outside dimension of the top edge of a flaired check by .010. That is significant.
That doesn't sound right, but the last time I knowingly used trig was 1985.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Seemed off to me too. Just did a bit of measuring. I currently get a gator check to go from .319 to .328 at the top edge. I would prefer around .324.

Using the online trig calculator it looks like I can get what I want with 10°. It shows the 15° as giving .004 more than 10°.

In the end it will require a trial part to be made to see what really happens. Maybe tomorrow after work.
 

Wasalmonslayer

Well-Known Member
Wow that looks like it would be a great asset to the guy with a ton of gas checks that will not slip on.
Have you ever thought of making a few of them for those who do not have access to equipment that is needed to make such things :)
I have always fought gas checks being a touch to tight and if they fit on well they don't crimp tight.

That is a super tool you have made there good job!!!!!!!

Wasalmonslayer
 

S Mac

Sept. 10, 2021 Steve left us. You are missed.
If you decide to go into production, put the word out. Looks handy.

So is it flair or flare. Mould or mold. Color or colour.........
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I think flare with flair is redundant so I just go with flair!

I am far and away the worst speller in my family and it shows....
 

Ian

Notorious member
Yes, the pressure will push the check against the bullet base but since you have crimped the sides of the check against and into the check shank where is the extra metal gonna go if it wasn't installed flat against the bullet base before the big light comes on?

Not where you think. The cup shape of the check base flattens out against the bullet base...but it doesn't typically shove the front edge of the check forward to push up a big ridge of lead on the check shank. Why you say? Because when the check reaches the throat entrance of the rifle it gets swaged down a bit and there's quite a heavy resistance there, so the extra metal from the check flattening against the base actually squares up the corner of the base. Recover some bullets and you'll find square, flat bases with tails leading off from the land cuts, and you'll have minimal compression of the space between base band and gas check compared to an unfired bullet. This is why I don't sweat it too much. Now, flaring the check to get it on the bullet square would be important if you have some really stubborn bullets or checks.