OK, I've been reading (and re-reading) and thinking about the suggestions you all have given. Having rarely ever loaded high pressure ammunition, and having to deal with some rather generous .303 British chambers, I've achieved a mindset that head space is bad, period, and causes cases to stretch. In cast bullet forums, there's lots of discussion of guys going to great lengths to mitigate the effects of long military chambers, such as o-rings on the case head to take up space, greasing cases so they slide back against the bolt before gripping the chamber, etc. Ian's explanation in particular has helped me understand the difference when it comes to high pressure loads: expand the case against the chamber before the full force of all that pressure has to be handled by the bolt. For that you need a little cushion of space, and you have to accept some case stretch. Do I have that about right, now? Brad asked a key question. It was, why did those cases get sized so short to begin with? The answer to that is another dumb mindset that I fell into. I mentioned that my Lee sizer wouldn't move the shoulder enough to even chamber a round, no matter how hard I cranked it down. I found that an old C-H sizer would. I simply adjusted the C-H die the same way I did the Lee (all the way down), it moved the shoulder, I could chamber the round, and I thought life was good. I never stopped to consider how far I had just moved all those shoulders. After my experiment I've described below, I've found that according to my feeler gauges, my die is at least .004" higher than where it was when I sized all that brass the first time. Possibly even a little higher, because I really cranked that C-H die down the first time, just as I had the Lee. I have yet to address my accuracy issue, and there are many more suggestions above that deal with that, but I need to first address the headspace issue. Below is my attempt to achieve .001-.002 headspace. Your expert opinions, as always, are appreciated.
Brad said: "I would also get a Hornady Stoney Point headspace gauge. With that gauge and a set of calipers you can push the shoulder back a known amount."
Being retired and poor, and lacking a Stoney Point headspace gauge for now, here’s what I did:
- Select a fired case that caused resistance to lifting the bolt.
- Use a dry-erase marker to color the neck and shoulder of the case, then gradually adjust the FL sizing die ≃ .001” at a time until the ink shows that the shoulder of the case is just touching the shoulder portion of the die.
- Turn in the die ≃ .001” and size the case again.
- Color the shoulder of the case, then chamber it in the rifle. (After extracting the case, use a chamber swab to remove any ink from the chamber so it’s clean for the next test.)
- If there is resistance to lifting the bolt or if the ink shows that the shoulder of the case is touching the shoulder of the chamber, repeat steps 3-4. I found that I couldn’t detect resistance to lifting the bolt several steps before the ink showed that the shoulder of the case actually stopped touching the chamber.
- Push the shoulder back an additional .001”.
Finding Approximate .001” Graduations on the Resizing Die
The die has 14 threads per inch. That means it would take .014 of a turn to move the die up or down .001”. Since turning is measured in degrees, I needed to know how many degrees of rotation would equal .014 of a turn. Using a ratio, if one turn equals 360°, then .014 turns equals x°. Solving for x gives 5.04°. So, ≃ 5° to the right is .014 of a turn to the right, which will move the die down .001”. There’s no sense worrying about the decimal portion, since this method is a bit crude. I’m interested in marking approximately 5° increments on the die so I can see when I’ve moved the die down approximately .001” at a time. I eyeballed the following steps:
- Use a permanent marker to mark the die lined up with a reference point that does not rotate.
- Make a second mark on the die 90° counter-clockwise of this mark.
- Make a mark halfway between the two 90° marks. There are now two spaces that are each ≃ 45° (depending on the accuracy of your eyeball and hand).
- Divide each of the two 45° spaces in half with marks. There are now four spaces that are each ≃ 22 ½°.
- Divide each of the four 22 ½° spaces in half with marks. There are now eight spaces that are each ≃ 11 ¼°.
- Divide each of the eight 11 ¼° spaces in half with marks. There are now sixteen spaces that are each ≃ 5 ⅝°. That’s close enough to 5°, considering the error I’ll introduce marking and reading my homemade scale, and is far better than guessing.