How does this happen?

[fiver]

I drop my sprues right back in the pot and I add ingots as I go.
I know how much a 1 lb ingot will drop a 20lb LEE pot if it's room temp, that doesn't happen with a pre-warmed ingot in a magma pot.
the sprue might put some oxides back in the pot but I got a bunch on top anyway.

 

[Ian]

Unless casting precision rifle bullets, I catch the sprue with my gloved hand and immediately toss it back in the pot. This WILL cause oxide scum buildup on the bottom of the pot, so several times per 20-lb pot of alloy I do a vigorous stir and skim because the oxides build up a LOT faster on bottom AND top when constantly feeding oxidized metal (sprue surface) to the alloy. No big deal, but I get a lot more bullets per pot this way and don't have the long re-heat delay of melting a bunch of sprues down for the next batch. This plays hoc with precision casting, though, so when it really matters that consistency is spot-on, NOTHING goes into the pot until I'm finished with a run. Those precision runs tend to be shorter, too, usually about 5-7 pounds from 3/4 full to half full, which gives me the most consistent flow out the spout and also speeds refill/remelt time quite a bit when starting from half instead of less than 1/4 full as I do when casting a big run of pistol bullets.

 

[RicinYakima]

Yes, Dan, many people do that. When you are making pistol bullets for action shooting, who cares if the groups at 1 inch bigger at 50 yards? Plinkers only have to go out the barrel.

 

[JWFilips]

NOTHING goes into the pot until I'm finished with a run. Those precision runs tend to be shorter, too, usually about 5-7 pounds from 3/4 full to half full, which gives me the most consistent flow out the spout and also speeds refill/remelt time quite a bit when starting from half instead of less than 1/4 full

Ian,
I guess this is the way I usually cast because it gives me consistency. Sometimes I will go a bit below 1/2 pot of my 20 lb'er
I usually shut it all down Size & weigh my bullets then load the now cool pot back up with fresh ingots and cast another session I throw my sprews into a big bucket that I will re-smelt and then label those ingots "prime bullet alloy" When I start from a cold pot most times I will put my recently culled bullets into the pot however.

 

[quicksylver]

Unless casting precision rifle bullets, I catch the sprue with my gloved hand and immediately toss it back in the pot. This WILL cause oxide scum buildup on the bottom of the pot, so several times per 20-lb pot of alloy I do a vigorous stir and skim because the oxides build up a LOT faster on bottom AND top when constantly feeding oxidized metal (sprue surface) to the alloy. No big deal, but I get a lot more bullets per pot this way and don't have the long re-heat delay of melting a bunch of sprues down for the next batch. This plays hoc with precision casting, though, so when it really matters that consistency is spot-on, NOTHING goes into the pot until I'm finished with a run. Those precision runs tend to be shorter, too, usually about 5-7 pounds from 3/4 full to half full, which gives me the most consistent flow out the spout and also speeds refill/remelt time quite a bit when starting from half instead of less than 1/4 full as I do when casting a big run of pistol bullets.

Whew.....that was close...!

I cast my rifle bullets as Ian states above for precision bullets...I also label that batch of bullets..may only be 180 - 220 bullets....

I agree Ricin.. way too much for plinkers out of a pistol...but I do my 45 ACP 200 grainers the same way..the gun is worth the effort when shooting Bullseye matches...

I will be casting some 255s for the RBH 45 Colt this weekend..I will try your method ..sounds like the way to keep production going...AGAIN thanks all for the info.....Dan

 

[Dale53]

JW;
The problem you describe (occasional heavy bullet) is almost certainly caused by a relaxed grip on the mold handles when pouring. Several years ago, after casting bullets for over fifty years, this was brought to my attention by the great single shot shooter, Jim Borton. He was using a commercially available locking handle from Cabine Tree. I got one and it DID solve the problem. We were shooting with plain base cast bullets in single shot rifle competition. Benchrest competition at 200 yards calls for the best bullets you can make.

Here is a fellow that made his own:

http://rvbprecision.com/shooting/constant-pressure-mold-handles.html

Cabine Tree is no longer in business (the fellow that made mine) but another company is making them. They ARE pricey:

http://cowboybullets.com/Mould-Handle_p_56.html

I now cast only pistol bullets from multi-cavity molds. I cast match quality bullets as a matter of course, but I don't use the locking handles with pistol bullets. I am not lookin' for half minute accuracy with handguns...

FWIW
Dale53

 

[Intheshop]

Gotta say Dale,we've been altering/modifying/welding 11r's (mostly imports) for well,ever.....but that's a new one on me.Thanks for posting the link.

 

[JWFilips]

Dale: I can see this happening;l after a long session I'm sure getting tired plays into the handle grasp!

 

[Rally Hess]

I agree with Dale. I did exactly that twice today. I was casting with a NOE-314-115 in RG4, Al., 2gc, 2pb. Twice I noticed a fin on the bullet coming from the outside cavity. I just throw all four back in the melt when it happens because you know the other three may be close but not worth messing with. Both were in the last hour of casting.
The last couple days have been so warm I've been able to open the garage door and cast while watching my hillside to the south. I put some half rotten apples out there for the deer and the squirrels have taken a fancy to them. They have gotten used to my tapping on the mould and the dogs barking at them.I had a pleasant afternoon of casting. Now I have to sort out the GC-DP from the PB-HP's.