Inadvertently cured my Cramer WC mold's fill out problem

[Maven]

I was casting both RCBS and Cramer (looks like the Lee 148gr. button nose WC) wadcutters earlier today, but was less than thrilled with the prospect of using the Cramer again because of a poorly filled out front portion. And yes, I've tried casting at different rates, temperatures, with the ladle in contact/not in contact with the sprue plate, venting the mold as per Ben's method, to no avail. Just by chance, the metal fixture which exerts downward pressure on the sprue plate was loose, and thus not functioning, but the result was an immediate improvement in fill out: practically no rejects afterwards! While it's tempting to remove the thing altogether, it's not a good idea as it acts as a stop for the sprue plate, so I'll leave it loose and ineffective. To me, Cramer's idea was a solution that created a problem and it only took me 10 or more years to discover it!

 

[yodogsandman]

Congratulations! Glad you finally found the problem. Your post will help a lot of casters, giving them something else to check on a mold that's not working for them.

 

[Brad]

Too tight can be as bad as too loose. Momma bear is best, just right.

 

[Todd M]

I have that same problem on my Lee .429-208-WC. I will have to try loosening it and see what happens! It's very frustrating to see 70% of the boolits with a wavy front edge that is supposed to be square and sharp!

 

[Glen]

Venting is very important, and can be accomplished in many ways. Are the vent lines clean and free from blockages in your Cramer mould?

 

[Maven]

Glen, The vent lines are more than open, but the sprue plate hold down & stop device, when set according to Cramer's idea of correctly, doesn't/didn't allow for proper venting. Now that it's properly set up and venting, I'll look forward to better and less frustrating results from it.

1989toddm, I had two Lee WC molds like that, the 38-148 and a slightly heavier one for my .44mag. The latter I sold because of only so-so accuracy, but the 38-148 cast some (more by chance than design) accurate WC's. Like you, I got no more than 30% that were keepers.

 

[Todd M]

Good news! I only had a little time to get the mold up to operating temp and try a few casts, but I did get a few good boolits with square leading edges. I loosened the sprue plate to just where it will swing freely if mold is tilted. Ran it hot (Lee); it seems like the best performance is right on the verge of the sprue plate being too hot to allow the sprue to cool. Next I will try a damp cloth every few casts on the plate, not the mold and see if that improves anything.

 

[Dale53]

I have a $7.00 manicurist's fan (little six inch fan) that cools my sprues. I can run the mold a bit hot, and cool it in two seconds with the fan. I wouldn't be without it!



I got mine at Target but Walmart has a similar one at about the same price. You will find them in the fan department. They are somewhat seasonal, so now is a good time to pick one up.

FWIW
Dale53

 

[JonB]

I also run a small fan, pointed in the direction of where I dump the bullets, mostly to cool a mold with large cavities, to speed up production.

 

[Dale53]

The fan has a side benefit, too. The pile of bullets are cooled off as you cast. When you are finished, you can "pick up" the bullets immediately without waiting for them to cool. I use a small scoop (there may be some still a bit hot to handle) to scoop them up and slide them into a box.

My casting station is in my utility barn. It's a benefit to have them ready to "travel" as soon as I finish casting.

Just a thought or two...

Dale53

 

[Rick]

A word of caution regarding running a fan. Be sure to not allow it to blow across the top of the pot, oxidation will increase a bunch, the more air blowing on the surface of the melt the faster oxidation will occur.

 

[KHornet]

Makes sense Rick! I run a fan but one that is behind me blowing fumes away from me.
Also helps to keep me a bit cooler in a hot garage where I cast this time of year.