Lee Collet Style Factory Crimp dies (for Handguns)

BrassFerret

New Member
Hello all

What are the opinions out there regarding the Lee Collet Style Factory Crimp die for handguns (NOT the LEE CARBIDE FACTORY CRIMP DIE)? Are these better for case life? In other words, less 'stress' when crimping the case mouth? How much crimp do you need for a .357 Magnum?
Any other input?
Thanks guys!
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Never saw the need for them. RCBS dies, like most others, are fully adjustable for the amount of crimp. When I don't want a roll crimp, I use one of their taper crimp dies. In addition to semi auto cartridges, they make them for other straight walled cartridges. I have one for 38/357 Magnum.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Hello all

How much crimp do you need for a .357 Magnum?
Any other input?
Thanks guys!

No more crimp than needed to prevent the bullet from pulling under recoil and tying up the revolver's cylinder. Consistent neck tension across the entire lot of ammo is much more important for good powder burn & accuracy.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
I bought the Lee .357 Magnum collet crimp die specifically for jacketed bullet use with the Rossi 92/EMF Hartford. It works as advertized.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
What's that line ? If matters when it does .
I have a well known associate that uses them a lot . The shooting style and needs are his and while not unique he has a certain loyalty after a couple of decades of symbiosis . For him they provide good results and avoid the resizing of cast . I have a couple that came with other sets . I don't use them except the 45-70 for the Marlin .
 

Ian

Notorious member
I see both sides. I didn't know Lee had a collet style for pistol cartridges but if they do I I'm sure it's good, the rifle ones are fantastic. The Problem for which the collet FCD is the solution is IRREGULAR BRASS. I know most of you (Rick not included) don't trim your revolver brass to a uniform length...so how do you get a uniform roll crimp with a conventional die? The FCD would be a great answer to that problem.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I don't trim handgun brass and the crimps are just fine.

I have on occasion trimmed handgun brass in an effort to make the most consistent (read that as accurate) ammunition possible. When you're seeking to squeeze every possible variable out of the equation, it makes some sense to trim casings so that the resulting cartridges will all be identical. However, unless you are really, really seeking some incredible level of consistency - it just isn't worth the effort.
The length of the casing does effect the final roll crimp but unless your brass is grossly inconsistent in terms of length, it just isn't enough variation to be concerned with.
Handgun cartridges that utilize a taper crimp and headspace on the case mouth can also be trimmed to a uniform length but again; I haven't seen a substantial benefit in performing that task.


Rifle cartridges are a different ball game.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I never could make the varying lengths work to my satisfaction. I also stand all my powder-coated pistol bullets on their bases to bake because I don't like the little imperfections that come from dumping on mesh to cook....so take that for what it's worth, i.e. I do stuff just because it makes me feel better, not because Professor Target gave me a bad grade for not doing so.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I have two of them, both bought to fill a specific need. The first one is in 44 magnum, and I bought it to (hopefully) crimp loads for my 629 Mountain Revolver. The damn thing had .433+ throats and conventional crimp dies were damaging the front driving band on the Accurate mold I had made specifically for that gun. IIRC, the crimp die did work for this situation and the revolver shot its first decent group ever with this combination. I still have it around here somewhere, unlike the 629. I got tired of that primadonna and sold it off to somebody more patient than I. The second one I bought is for my 357 SIG, and I bought it because I didn't like the idea of taper crimping a short bottleneck case. I would have been okay, but I had made up my mind to do it this way, and so I did. It works great too.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Perhaps others experience more variations in case length than I do, or perhaps I'm just more tolerant of minor variations in case length. I don't know. I have thousands of 38 Special casings (and thousands of other types too) and I can't remember the last time I trimmed a handgun casing. I have done it, but it has just been a long time since doing it.
I enjoy reloading as much as I enjoy shooting, so the work isn't the issue. I just don't find trimming handgun brass to be productive.
There have been occasions when I strived to produce incredibly consistent ammunition. Going through steps such as sorting brass by manufacturer, squaring primer pockets, de-burring flash holes, trimming casings to a uniform length, seating primers off the press, weighing each powder charge, culling bullets by weight and only using bullets that fall within a narrow weight range. While those measures can reduce group size, they don't reduce the group size enough to be significant.

If I was loading say, 50 rounds a session; I might consider trimming casings. Reloading is a hobby and if you enjoy the task then there is no harm in the extra labor. In fact, there may even be a great deal of pride and satisfaction in that labor.
However, I load handgun cartridges by the hundreds and I don't see the need (or benefit) of trimming handgun brass. No criticism for those that wish to expend that extra effort.

Hypothetically speaking, if trimming cases reduces your group size by say 5% but practicing more often reduces your group size by 50% (and I'm just making up numbers here) then under those circumstances it becomes far more beneficial to produce more ammunition as opposed to producing extremely consistent ammunition.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
While those measures can reduce group size, they don't reduce the group size enough to be significant.

Your correct for the average run of the mill hand gun ammo at average run of the mill handgun distances but the distance your shooting at has a major impact on whether all those steps are "significant". I shot long range hand gun, targets at 50-100-150 and 200 meters with an open sighted handgun, no scopes. Shoot-off targets to break ties in a match are also at 200 meters and some of them are about the size of a pack of cigarettes. Any improvement you can make is significant not the least of which is confidence in your equipment.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
If you are routinely shooting handgun with iron sights at targets 200 meters away and you think you need to trim cases- I say, "go for it". :)

But for the rest of us mere mortals............., trimming handgun brass is probably not going to yield a significant increase in accuracy OR confidence in our equipment.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
I started using the Lee collet crimper for my "dash" caliber cases. Liked it so well that whenever I saw a sale on other calibers I bought them. .45 Colt, .44 mag, .357, also in rifle 30-30, 7.62x39, and .33 Winchester. I think there may be a set for .223 also.
 

BrassFerret

New Member
Thank you for all the reply's! I got hold of this die because I thought they would be easier on my .357 brass (This is not so easy to come by here in South Africa now). My other reason was the inconsistent length potentially causing issues when I crimp.

It is my intention to try hunt with this revolver someday...Maybe a warthog or blesbuck or some other small game animal that is mental enough to let me get close! I still need to put in a serious amount of practice and am still trying to figure out what the correct way is to hold a single action revolver for consistently accurate results...

I got a mold from Tom at Accurate Molds that drops a 200 grain wide flat nose that I think will hammer what ever I hit with it, but first I have to hit it!!
I also like the #359429 from Lyman!
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Hello all

What are the opinions out there regarding the Lee Collet Style Factory Crimp die for handguns (NOT the LEE CARBIDE FACTORY CRIMP DIE)? Are these better for case life? In other words, less 'stress' when crimping the case mouth? How much crimp do you need for a .357 Magnum?
Any other input?
Thanks guys!
I am a big fan of the Lee Collet Style Factory Crimp die for revolver cartridges. I have a few of them, 357, 41, 44, 45c and I ordered a custom one for the 500.
"How much Crimp"...that is dependent on the load and bullet style.
Maybe the biggest advance for me, is the ease of getting a uniform "non-crimp"...meaning removing the bell without crimping the case mouth onto the bullet.