Liquid lubes


This is what used with my last batch of BLL. It worked just as well as the the Johnsons product.

".......waxes as it cleans............"
Makes me wonder what they're "cleaning" with, but if one knows anything about waxes typically used on woodwork, and knows a little about wood and finishes on woodwork, it should mean that they are simply using a suitable solvent to dissolve the old wax to "clean" (strip) it off to prevent a buildup of wax/dirt/ This would be a good thing for us lethey kept it simple and used an old fashioned volatile solvent.

".............It actually is our Paste Wax in liquid form.............."
This is a good thing - assuming there's nothing weird about their version of "paste wax."

I know there were discussions about a substitute, but I didn't pay much attention because I already had three or four cans of the Johnson's. The way I use tumble lube, a bunch of it will end up in my estate sale. I handed off a thousand bullets to my visiting brother a couple days ago and had to check again to make sure I'd actually lubed them. If I've done it right, I have to smell them to tell if they've been lubed. I leave a small note card in the container if I've only applied one coat. After the second coat, the note card is tossed, so if they smell like lube and no note card, they'd had two coats - point being that 45-45-10 or BLL goes a long way. I have to microwave my 45-45-10, and warm my bullets on the wood stove to get the coat as thin as I want it. BLL is MUCH more convenient to "make" as well as to apply.

I've failed on occasion to correctly mark which I've used, so I've inadvertently done some blind, objective testing. For the shooting I do, I can't tell a difference at the target.

Next time I mix BLL, if I ever have to, I'm trying Ian's 50/50 ratio and mixing it right in the Johnson's can. That Johnson's can is worth a few bucks on its own because it seals better than any other container I've used. LEE's squirt bottles don't hold up to repeated microwaving and the spouts don't seal well enough over the long period of time I tend to take to use four ounces of either lube. If I don't like the 50/50 as much as the original 60/40, I can just add the extra 10% and nothing lost.


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Jeff, I went to 50/50 because it makes a lighter coat without warming the bullets or lube. It also doesn't build up as bad in the cool whip container. Shoots the same for me. Ymmv.

Fiver's mix with a little beeswax is good, too. I dislike Alox products so much that I've considered cutting BLL to 30/60/5/5 Alox/jos/beeswax/microwax, but powder coating keeps winning over doing that experiment.
Jeff, I went to 50/50 because it makes a lighter coat without warming the bullets or lube..........
........I dislike Alox products so much that..............
The thinner, lighter coat was my first thought when I saw you post "50/50." Most of my casting is done when it's so cold I just can't do anything else, so that matters. Sometimes I have to warm BLL bullets, sometimes I don't, and it's easier in the winter if the mix is thinner.

I appreciate your perspective on Alox, but don't have the education to understand it because I've intentionally avoided it. My battery and my shooting has changed to reduce and simplify, so my shooting has changed also. I don't think I get into situations where Alox bogs me down much, so, good or bad, Alox is still cheap and easy as far as achieving what I need. Hopefully, when I mention it every time we discuss lubes, no one takes it as me singing its praises.

I'm glad you mentioned it, Ian. I don't want to mislead anyone who's getting started or just new to a particular aspect. I forget that what I'm doing is a little weird - working the opposite direction of what we normally see as progress. I'm working backwards to see just how little time and cash I have to put in to have guns and loads that are still effective. Not looking for converts either - just having fun with an experiment I've always wanted to do.

So, to anyone reading my posts who is curious about lubes - listen to the other guys, because I'm all about "cheap-n-easy" these days, going for the simplest, cheapest ("free-est" where possible) down-n-dirty way to keep shooting (reasonably well) regardless of the national economy or political climate. It's actually been a fun endeavor I've wanted to pursue for many, many years. My way imposes limits - lots of limits, but it's fun working around or within them.

Back to Ian - Powder coating......... yeah, I'll have to go there eventually and for a specific reason. Been watching and reading your and others' posts on that for a long time.


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Jeff, that's a really good post. I can forsee changing over to powder-coating almost entirely, and will if it proves as effective as other methods. Pc solves too many problems, with too few side effects to ignore. Like you said, for my purposes, and not to claim it is the best solution for eveyone.

Like you, I'm starting to look at streamlining and paring down the whole handloading game, and further, to develop truly universal loads for all my (or friend's) guns in each caliber. So far I have .38 Spl. and .45 ACP nailed down and carved in granite. .45 Colt and .308 Win are next. So far, PC has been a huge part of that.


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good luck on the 'universal' 45 colt load.
if all your friends have guns made after about 2000 it could happen, unless one goes and buy's a Taurus made Rossi model 92 or a second gen colt or an old model Ruger Vaquero then your back to two or three 'universal' loads.


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Got 4 full cans unopened, probably last 2 lifetimes.
More than likely Brad will inherit most of them.
I lube and size with a variety of lubes, but I give
most all of them a single coat of Bll. I consider it
to be an encapsulant. On multi groove blts, of
the lovern and ranch dog styles, have gone to 2
coats of Bll, and on most plain base bullets the



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Started with LLA, made a batch of Recluse - still very smoky. Read the thread on lubes but don't like cooking so I tried peanut butter. Then veggie oil. It works really great but sloppy, messy (full house loads in 30/30 & 308W - no leading and excellent accuracy + a fine 'mist' at the crown, no real 'smoke'). Read about PC, it works. Once I figued out tumble coating, HF gun collects dust. Then HiTek - works too (don't like it for HV rifle - application can be a PITA). Made some BLL I occasionally use. I have not found any limitations to PC! Cheap, fast and accurate. Easiest to 'recover' from a botched job - just overcoat with BLL. Moulds work, PC works so I started tinkering with alloys. But that's a different thread.
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