Lube sizer die nut

M

msten

New Member
I used to have trouble with the nut to lock the sizer die into the lube sizer. Always had trouble starting the nut onto the sizer.

My fix was to bring the ram down on top of the nut with some pressure and use my plyers to turn the nut. This helps because the nut is square with the threads with the ram pressure.
 
I punched a witness mark on the nut. When the mark is at the 6:00 position the nut and lubesizer threads are all in alignment for instant engagement.

Put the nut on the die. With the witness mark at 6:00, use ram pressure to push the die all the way down. Tighten the nut.
 
I pushed the E-Z button, and bought the "Die retention nut wrench" from Keith. Works great!!
You'll find it here:

Die retention nut drivers for sale

I've been digging out old stock and found 18 Lyman size (7/8") nut drivers and 19 RCBS size (15/16") nut drivers. They make changing dies on the Lyman 450/4500 much easier and greatly reduce the chance of cross threading. Helpful on the RCBS LAM series also but the RCBS engineers put a coarser...
www.artfulbullet.com www.artfulbullet.com
 
Sounds like good ideas. I tend to make sure the unit is warm so the lube is soft. Then place the nut over the die and bring down the ram against the nut with gentle pressure. Back off the nut until I feel it "bump" as the threads align and then hand turn the nut by hand to try to avoid cross threading.
 
I also have a Star, but to try to prevent cross threading issues, I will lube the 38/357 at .358 and then use a Lee push through to reduce a lubed bullet down to 357 or less if required. Similar with the various 30 cal cast bullets. Lube size large and reduce as needed I hate taking a chance on messing up a thread fitting.
 
The original Lyman stamped sheet metal wrench had tabs so you could press down and turn at the same time while keeping the nut square to the hole. Worked pretty slick, but not as slick as Keith's tool.
 
I used to set the nut over the sizing (H&I) die before setting the whole assembly in the sizing die recess, and press it down until it stopped. Then I'd slowly turn the nut in reverse while pressing down, sort of like I was trying to remove it. At some point I would feel the nut drop into the mating recess between the threads in the sizer, and on the die nut. At that point I'd start turning the nut in the correct direction to tighten it, and this almost always worked to start the nut straight in the threads. It takes a few tries to develop the knack, but after a few repetitions it just got quicker and easier to do.
 
I find that some Kroil on the threads helps a lot. Those fine threads inevitability get some bullet lube in the threads and that makes it difficult to get the nut started correctly. A little Kroil and sometimes an old toothbrush to clean the threads makes it easier to start the nut without cross threading it. With clean threads, you can feel the threads mate and you don’t need any downward force. Those fine threads make me nervous, but they seem to work.
 
If you push the Nut onto the die before you drop it down into the sizer it helps centering it. Have plenty of lube on the inside of the Nut so it sticks and holds the die. The Nut pulls the die into the machine. Like Ric, I have several sizers and just pull the one I need and change the Top Punch if needed. Mount them on a Lyman heater plate. No powder coating. Just old style lube. I still have and use the first Lyman 450 purchased at age 14. Had an entire casting setup in my Garage Apartment bedroom.

Bruce
 
I did the same as 358156 before I got my Star. It worked,
 
I ordered 1/2 dozen nuts one time. Kept a container of solvent on the bench. When I changed a sizing die, I dropped the old gummed up nut in and fished out a clean one. My troubles went away./beagle
 
When I had a Lyman 450, I used Keith's tool and that tool worked great(the press, not so much). I no longer have a 450, and God willing, I will never have another one.
I much prefer the style of Lyman 45 press and Ideal #1 press ...and of course the Star is MOST AWESOME.
 
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