Lyman size die

[Brad]

Decided that I needed a project. Need another hole in my head too but I digress.....

Thought it was time to try a Lyman type size die. Decided on .357 as it is something Khornet can use. I am pretty much a Star guy so it was more about doing than needing.

Decided to use 12L14 as I have a bunch big enough to work and it machines so nice. After making one and getting the hang of it I can make the next from a more suitable steel like O1.


Turned to rough diameter, ready for some layout.


Damn, photo is blurry. This is getting ready to cut the taper on the bottom that seals the bottom in the sizer.

Taper cut. I ended up going back and making it a bit longer after I finished the body diameter. The angle is 30°.



Lay out for lube holes. Notice the upper end is a little larger. I made it .723 and it is a snug fit in the lock ring on the Lyman 450. Shouldn't leak even without an o ring. Time will tell.


I went with one hole clean thru for each row. Should let lube flow just fine. Holes are .120.


Cut off from stock. Ready to be centered in 4 jaw, faced, and drilled. The easy part is done.

Face off. This also sets overall length. Somehow it ended up .023 short. Need to fix that in next one.

Hole is drilled. Notice how rough the hole is after drilling.

 

[Brad]

Got the 1° lead in taper cut. Ready to final polish and fit with emery, a split rod, oil, and gauge pins. I like to stop when the size I want pin fits and the next won't. This generally gives me .0005 over the desired size. In this case a test bullet came out .3578 when I wanted .357+. Alloy and hardness are the other factors in final size, along with start diameter. Hard to make a sizer that gives exactly what you want ant with all alloys.


All finished up and cleaned up. Takes some solvent to get the duct tape residue off. I need to find a better way to hold stuff without marring in the chuck but tape works and is cheap.

It fits my Lyman fine. Now I need to make the center pin and get it fit. That fill be both easier and harder. Easier as it has fewer steps but harder as it is small enough in diameter to flex when machining. Will also need to be the right size. I want it snug enough to prevent lube leakage but not so snug that it binds. I figure .355-.356 will be good. Might try to whip it up later.

 

[Ian]

Looks nice Brad, you pick up this stuff pretty quickly.

Before you get to it, let me throw an idea at you: When you make the ejector ("I" part), drill a 1/8" or so hole all the way through it to relieve air and excess lube. I think Buckshot used to do this but never have seen one or a picture. It sounds like a stellar idea to me to keep lube from accumulating down there and also to help vent air.

 

[Brad]

Interesting idea. Not really difficult to do either. It will fit in nicely with the center I need to drill for the tailstock center. The part is gonna flex enough with a center, without it I will go deaf from chatter.
I've always been good at visualizing things. I can work out the sequence of operations in my mind. Looking back I think I would have made a hell of an engineer. I just didn't care to do that much math.

 

[gman]

Buckshot sizing die.

 

[freebullet]

Real nice, Brad. Having the ability to whip up a size die is really something.

Once the Christmas mill & the Chuck from Smokywolf shows up you'll be making guns from scratch.

 

[Ian]

Yeah, at either my house or Fiver's...

 

[Ian]

View attachment 2470 Buckshot sizing die.

BINGO! Like that Brad. Thanks for the picture Gman.

 

[gman]

Anytime Ian!

 

[RicinYakima]

FWIW, when I started making "I" pins for lyman sizers, it was .001"+ clearance. But they were hard to operate, so with NRA lube the final diameter was .003+ smaller. Some are .005" and didn't leak any at room temperature. p.s. You do really nice work Brad!

 

[Brad]

Decided to go ahead and finish the job. Wish I had something smaller than 5/8 O1.


You can see how much I had to hog off. Used a nice carbide insert tool for that. It takes large cuts with no trouble.



Drilled a .150 hole clean thru. Like that Ian?
After drilling I did the final polish to size. It finished up .3569 and is a slip fit in the die. Should be about perfect. Doesn't take much space to let it slide easily.


Parted off and ready to face off to finished length. Had to wrap it is tape as my 4 jaw won't hold something this small. Sure hope my wife gets me that 5C collet Chuck........




Stamped with size and ready for use.

Probably took 2.5 hours total to make this. Sure wouldn't be a money maker for anyone who values their time. I know I won't be buying any more Lyman size dies.

Next time I think I would drill the die to almost finished size then drill the cross holes. The reason is that drills don't like cross holes when drilling the length of the die. The drill likes to wander and it can lead to chips on the leading edge of the drill.

A v block and drill press would help. I drilled the cross holes with a cordless drill freehand while the part was still on the lathe.

 

[Ian]

when enlarging a few I've had some very slight leaks after .003" or more increase in the "H" body hole, but I don't know how much that increased the factory clearance. Some things you don't want too tight, remember the episode of Singer vying for the 1911 contract.

 

[Brad]

Ric, your experience is exactly what I'm worried about. I may need to make a new pin if the lube tends to bind it up.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I'm pretty pleased for a guy who until 2 years ago had never run a lathe.

 

[gman]

Nice job!

 

[RicinYakima]

Brad, it depends upon what lube is being run through it, and how hot it is. Lee Alox stick lube has the thickest body, LBT blue is very thin on the sides. Keep your field notes and results! Ric

 

[Ian]

Has gunsmith lathe and plenty of accessories. Has no drill press. Mind officially blown.

Great job on the die, Brad, you nailed it!

 

[Ian]

I think I would have made a hell of an engineer.

Actually, you did. She works for GE.

 

[Brad]

Have access to drill press at my parents. Never got around to buying one. Once I get a mill I won't really need one.

And I'm actually kind slim on lathe accessories. Damn tooling is expensive. My wife about died when I spent 200 bucks on a onurling tool.

 

[Brad]

Actually, you did. She works for GE.

Spoke to her last night. She is helping a rocket team at Iowa and they are adding weight to a rocket. She talked about using an Al rod. I asked the diameter of the rocket and then calculated how long a rod they needed. My wife just sighed and shook her head. She doesn't understand getting her nerd on.

 

[Stonecrusher]

Takes some solvent to get the duct tape residue off. I need to find a better way to hold stuff without marring in the chuck but tape works and is cheap.

Make up some shims from 1/16" -1/4" thick aluminum or copper to place between the jaws and the workpiece. Copper works best. The shims are soft enough to conform to the shape of the workpiece even if it is rough, like a casting or forging, and allows you to hold firmly enough to machine. You will find that it will also dampen some of the chatter that comes from an older chuck whose jaws may be sprung a little from use over the years. When a chuck wears, the jaws push forward slightly and instead of gripping their full length will only bite at the back end. This will make chatter.

The thicker shims will also take up some space allowing the smaller dia to be chucked. Die looks pretty good!