Pistolero
Well-Known Member
The Mauser M48 is a bit of an oddball. Apparently non-standard action length, neither a short
action or a long action of the more common Mauser 98 models. That has nothing to do with this
project, and I haven't even verified that it is correct, just heard that it wasn't "normal".
Well, something else isn't the same as other Mausers, too. A friend has been paying attention to
the scout scope mounts designed and produced by a member on the other site - which he produces
in small batches, usually selling out immediately. After trying to buy one for several years, but not
finding his M48 listed, my friend pulled together a few photos and asked if I could make one. Always looking
for fun projects - and needing some of this for my own use now that I can barely see the rear sight
on a std Mauser (front sight is fine!) iron sight set, I decided to try.
It turns out that the great ideas that the other guy has come up with don't really apply here because the
M48 rear sight base is very different. Usually, the issue is holding down the rear end of the base. The
"approved" method was to remove the leaf spring and make a "top hat" threaded bushing with a flange
that will slide into the slot for the leaf spring. The front of the mount is a tight fit between the leaf pivot
ears and pinned in place.
The M48 has a removeable curved sight "ramp" which the leaf slider follows to get the adjustments for
different ranges. Unscrewing a rear vertical screw lets the ramp and spring pop off of the sight. This
leaves a VERY convenient undercut slot to use to attach the rear of the scope base, clamped down by the
same screw which clamped the original ramp.
I started with a bar of aluminum, and since it was sawed off of a larger piece (in scrap bin at local metal
supplier), I first squared it up by milling the sawn side parallel to the opposite factory side. Then I made
the little step at the rear, and finally started narrowing the front to fit between the ears, doing final fitting
(it is a slight interference fit to avoid motion in the mount) with a file and 320 sandpaper. After shortening
it a bit to drop down between the ears and contact the base, I measured the existing pin hole, .155
gage pin jus slid through - how convenient! I made a transfer pin and punched both sides of the base
thru the ear holes, then drilled small from either side in the drill press, avoiding any misalignment
issues. Drilled up to .154 with a number drill and then reamed to .156. I used a piece of .155 drill rod
as the pin, which is a nice "tap it in" fit. I'll put some blue Loctite on it at final assembly. I also had to mill
a shallow slot the full length of the bottom since the barrel actually comes up a bit above the sides of the rear
mount, and the ramp is hollow in the middle, sits on the side rails. The base is soft soldered on like other
Mauser sights, just a different design of the top portion which we are attaching to for a scout scope mount.
At this point I need to remove about 3/8" of material on the top to make a place to secrew down a
segment of pre-made Picatinny rail.
Thought some might enjoy hearing about the little project.
Not too complex, and about right for my small mill and limited skill set.
Bill
action or a long action of the more common Mauser 98 models. That has nothing to do with this
project, and I haven't even verified that it is correct, just heard that it wasn't "normal".
Well, something else isn't the same as other Mausers, too. A friend has been paying attention to
the scout scope mounts designed and produced by a member on the other site - which he produces
in small batches, usually selling out immediately. After trying to buy one for several years, but not
finding his M48 listed, my friend pulled together a few photos and asked if I could make one. Always looking
for fun projects - and needing some of this for my own use now that I can barely see the rear sight
on a std Mauser (front sight is fine!) iron sight set, I decided to try.
It turns out that the great ideas that the other guy has come up with don't really apply here because the
M48 rear sight base is very different. Usually, the issue is holding down the rear end of the base. The
"approved" method was to remove the leaf spring and make a "top hat" threaded bushing with a flange
that will slide into the slot for the leaf spring. The front of the mount is a tight fit between the leaf pivot
ears and pinned in place.
The M48 has a removeable curved sight "ramp" which the leaf slider follows to get the adjustments for
different ranges. Unscrewing a rear vertical screw lets the ramp and spring pop off of the sight. This
leaves a VERY convenient undercut slot to use to attach the rear of the scope base, clamped down by the
same screw which clamped the original ramp.
I started with a bar of aluminum, and since it was sawed off of a larger piece (in scrap bin at local metal
supplier), I first squared it up by milling the sawn side parallel to the opposite factory side. Then I made
the little step at the rear, and finally started narrowing the front to fit between the ears, doing final fitting
(it is a slight interference fit to avoid motion in the mount) with a file and 320 sandpaper. After shortening
it a bit to drop down between the ears and contact the base, I measured the existing pin hole, .155
gage pin jus slid through - how convenient! I made a transfer pin and punched both sides of the base
thru the ear holes, then drilled small from either side in the drill press, avoiding any misalignment
issues. Drilled up to .154 with a number drill and then reamed to .156. I used a piece of .155 drill rod
as the pin, which is a nice "tap it in" fit. I'll put some blue Loctite on it at final assembly. I also had to mill
a shallow slot the full length of the bottom since the barrel actually comes up a bit above the sides of the rear
mount, and the ramp is hollow in the middle, sits on the side rails. The base is soft soldered on like other
Mauser sights, just a different design of the top portion which we are attaching to for a scout scope mount.
At this point I need to remove about 3/8" of material on the top to make a place to secrew down a
segment of pre-made Picatinny rail.
Thought some might enjoy hearing about the little project.
Not too complex, and about right for my small mill and limited skill set.
Bill
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