mounting a press

[Petrol & Powder]

There are an endless number of ways to design a bench. Needs and constraints will dictate the form and of course, there’s the cost.

A few rules that I’ve developed for myself over the years:

• Design FIRST, then build. Have a concept and plan before you do anything. What type of top? (sacrificial or durable), Will the top overhang the frame? If so, how much? Will that impede the mounting tools? How will devices be mounted? How tall (sitting or standing).
• Build it once. It’s going to be there for a long time. You might alter the bench over its lifetime, but you don’t want to start over.
• Unless the bench must be in the middle of the room, anchor it to the wall (or walls). The bench doesn’t need to weigh an obscene amount or consume ridiculous amounts of material to be solid if it’s anchored to a wall. I use a ledger board with outward facing carriage bolts so the bench can be removed easily if needed.
• You don’t need to spend a fortune but most of the materials will be a one-time cost. So, a few dollars on glue, better hardware, better plywood, etc. will pay out over the life of the bench.

 

[Mitty38]

My bench is small light and portable. Out of necessity. I find a low lying bottom shelf with about 100 lbs of lead ingot-bullets ect.. Is plenty to stabilize it, unless I am sizing some really tight bullets. Then I just stabilize the press with my free hand when I pull the lever. .. so many ways to skin a cat.
But I will guarantee you this. Within 6 months of building your first loading area. You will be modifying something about it.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

The NRA used ta have plans they would send to any member.

Suffice it ta say ya need to have basic knowledge of wood construction. I like 2x6's and a double 3/4" top THEN I will secure to the wall too. Usually one single shelf either ON the ground. (Because EVERYTHING you drop will hit the top of your foot and shoot to the farthest darkest corner) or up off the floor enough to gain access under neath so WHEN things shoot under that shelf you can retrieve them.
One other thing I do is blocking under the top to secure the presses to. Using large heavy lag screws.

If you bench moves under re sizing or forming cases... Your not much if a carpenter.

CW

CW

 

[dale2242]

My bench is not moving.
Mine is made of 2 surfaced 4X12 side by side.
They a bolted to 2" angle iron that is bolted to the studs in the walls.
The 2X12s are cover with Formica.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

My bench is not moving.
Mine is made of 2 surfaced 4X12 side by side.
They a bolted to 2" angle iron that is bolted to the studs in the walls.
The 2X12s are cover with Formica.

You will never regret a over built bench when using it. You will forever regret a rickety one.

 

[fiver]

yep.

you'd be surprised what can be sturdied up though.
my first 'bench'... LOL
was a nightstand i had squirreled away in a closet but it was screwed through a 2x4 into the wall studs.
course i had like 2 cookies and a box of empty brass to work with.

 

[RBHarter]

This one covers a 24×36" swatch of floor and 30×42" net .
1@1/2"×4×6'
2@3/4"×4×6'
1@32×42×1-1/4 inch plywood flooring.

The 4×6 plywood was from a guy that tears down packing crates I guess . The flooring was just around . As seen here it has 6 1/2" holes to accommodate 2 RCs and a Big Max with Tnuts and countersunk flat head screws for 4 shotgun press bases , powder measure, canalure tool , 3 case trimmers , 2 different lube sizers , and a Partner press for priming. It's solid and would plenty of space if I only loaded 2 shotguns and 5-6 cartridges.

 

[fiver]

i like that roller handle

 

[castmiester]

it's always a good idea to go heavy in case you do case forming or whatever. I have one inch thick lament workbench top

Recently I used T nuts that are used for furniture. They are mounted underneath the top and drawn up when bolts are threaded in them from the top. When not using whatever you mount you can fill the holes with wooden dowel.

 

[castmiester]

i like that roller handle

wish I knew about that press before I bought my RC.

 

[RBHarter]

i like that roller handle

If the lube would hold up I could make 6.5CM into 6.5 Japanese in a single pass with only a tiny bulge over the extractor groove. The case stretches in length and swages the head down . Forming anything out of 06' is almost too easy. Unfortunately it's also really easy to pull rims off .

 

[Jeff H]

This is sort of like people "waiting to have kids until they can afford them."

THAT will NEVER happen.

Whatever bench a fella can put together that does the job should be constructed as soon as possible - whatever one can afford.

As @CWLONGSHOT intimates, it will CHANGE. Build the best bench you can swing and you'll learn first-hand what you do and don't like. As is possible, improve and expand based on your own real-life experience. Even if you abandon your original bench, you'll find a use for it if you build something else later.

Long time ago, I dreamed of "upgrading" from my LEE presses and dies, and had visions of the perfect reloading ROOM. As I used my make-do, small space over time, I came to appreciate it more and returned to my LEE stuff after "upgrading" and deciding I didn't like it. I LOVE my small space and sparse equipment and make excellent ammo with it. Others, like my best friend will eventually turn their whole basement into a marvel of a reloading room. That's just not for me.

Not to take away from @Glaciers 's setup - I'd wet myself every time I walked into the room with THAT bench, but it's really not me. Start with whatever you can afford and start learning what you like/don't.

Obviously, posting here for ideas is the smartest/safest way to flesh out ideas.

 

[Monochrome]

it's always a good idea to go heavy in case you do case forming or whatever. I have one inch thick lament workbench top

Recently I used T nuts that are used for furniture. They are mounted underneath the top and drawn up when bolts are threaded in them from the top. When not using whatever you mount you can fill the holes with wooden dowel.

View attachment 40366

So the T nuts are going t be drawn up into the wood when you start wrenching down on them.. Okies... what if your t nuts have a tapered section on them where the bolt goes through

 

[castmiester]

So the T nuts are going t be drawn up into the wood when you start wrenching down on them.. Okies... what if your t nuts have a tapered section on them where the bolt goes through

The outside of the shank that bolt threads into is slightly tapered but the inside where the threads are isn’t. Whatever size bolt you need buy the same size T nut. It’s straight standard threads.

 

[Walks]

Mine is close to Brad's design, with the addition of 2 layer of 1/4" tempered masonite. Screwed and glued. There are 3/8" steel plates mounted under the ancient RockChucker and Hornady L-N-L . My presses/ bench do NOT move. And the bench is bolted to the wall too.
I use "tee-nuts" on My other bench to mount Shotgun presses. Put them up for a 1,000 rds and take them down until needed.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Only place I have used "t" nuts is on my lid of my pistol box. When ipened it stands up straight and on windy days catches wind badly sometimes closing unwontedly!!!
So when open, I drilled thru and afixed a T nut on bottom inside and a thumb screw on top. So if I want when I open the lid, I can screw it inplace so it cant be "blown down".

Bad part is now, On real bad gusts... It can move entire box!!

 

[Monochrome]

Only place I have used "t" nuts is on my lid of my pistol box. When ipened it stands up straight and on windy days catches wind badly sometimes closing unwontedly!!!
So when open, I drilled thru and afixed a T nut on bottom inside and a thumb screw on top. So if I want when I open the lid, I can screw it inplace so it cant be "blown down".

Bad part is now, On real bad gusts... It can move entire box!!

Sounds like you use them plasticy glocks or scandium frames.. Good excuse to purchase something beefy, like a 629.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Sounds like you use them plasticy glocks or scandium frames.. Good excuse to purchase something beefy, like a 629.

Actually a Walther OSP, Benelli s90 and usually my 1911 ball gun. (3 gun matches.)

CW

 

[castmiester]

There are an endless number of ways to design a bench. Needs and constraints will dictate the form and of course, there’s the cost.

A few rules that I’ve developed for myself over the years:

• Design FIRST, then build. Have a concept and plan before you do anything. What type of top? (sacrificial or durable), Will the top overhang the frame? If so, how much? Will that impede the mounting tools? How will devices be mounted? How tall (sitting or standing).
• Build it once. It’s going to be there for a long time. You might alter the bench over its lifetime, but you don’t want to start over.
• Unless the bench must be in the middle of the room, anchor it to the wall (or walls). The bench doesn’t need to weigh an obscene amount or consume ridiculous amounts of material to be solid if it’s anchored to a wall. I use a ledger board with outward facing carriage bolts so the bench can be removed easily if needed.
• You don’t need to spend a fortune but most of the materials will be a one-time cost. So, a few dollars on glue, better hardware, better plywood, etc. will pay out over the life of the bench.

It's not rocket science

 

[fiver]

till you rip the press off your bench.