MP & NOE Molds
- Thread starter Misfit
- Start date
I usually cast with a pot temperature of 725 and uaually use a sft alloy of around 10BHN, the moulds aren't drilled for a probe so not sure about them but the sprue usually takes a couple of seconds to solidify. I have tried it at a variety of temperatures both alloy and mould, as I did think about expansion and fine tolerances but even when I was casting too cool for good fillout I still have the problem and even if being cooler cured the problem then there is the issue of poor fill and voids. Usually I cast at a mould temperature just slightly above that which give good fill out, my pots are PID controlled.
In practice I touch lube the pins every half dozen casts or so and this keeps me going but it spoils my cadence and is another step.
In practice I touch lube the pins every half dozen casts or so and this keeps me going but it spoils my cadence and is another step.
How many Cramer style molds are giving you this problem? All MP?
I dunno an answer for you, I just haven't had the problem your describing unless the pins are too tight and that only in an MP mold because of how tight the tolerances are. I have other Cramer molds by Erik that just don't have this issue but even so I leave the shafts a bit loose.
I dunno an answer for you, I just haven't had the problem your describing unless the pins are too tight and that only in an MP mold because of how tight the tolerances are. I have other Cramer molds by Erik that just don't have this issue but even so I leave the shafts a bit loose.
I have one original Cramer a Keith style 2 cavity 160gn SWC HP which I haven't used in years as I have had no need for such a bullet since 1997, prior to then it did get some heavy use and I have no recollection of it being problematical. The rest are MP and they all have the same sticky pin issue, as I say if I keep lightly lubing the pin shafts at frequent intervals they do go fine I just find them very finicky in that respect. All the moulds have had at least a few thousand cycles so are well broken in and do cast excellent bullets just have the sticky pins to contend with.
I know moulds especially HP/HB types have a knack to them and take some work and understanding to get going as they should, the RG moulds need too be given a little shake afore closing to settle the pins in the guide but this just becomes part of the cadence, stopping to lube every half dozen casts just feels like an interruption.
I have three MP Cramer style moulds and one of Mihecs very first moulds a single cavity .45 with a Lyman style HP.
I know moulds especially HP/HB types have a knack to them and take some work and understanding to get going as they should, the RG moulds need too be given a little shake afore closing to settle the pins in the guide but this just becomes part of the cadence, stopping to lube every half dozen casts just feels like an interruption.
I have three MP Cramer style moulds and one of Mihecs very first moulds a single cavity .45 with a Lyman style HP.
Those c clips are the easiest thing on the planet to lose and the hardest to find. I've often thought of replacing them with a hairpin clip just haven't got around to it.
I've got MP molds that I can leave the shafts snugged up but generally just leave them a 1/2 turn loose.
I've got MP molds that I can leave the shafts snugged up but generally just leave them a 1/2 turn loose.
Hair pin clips are easier to put on and take off too. Next time I visit my hardware store, which may be today, I'm going to pick some up.
LOL who knows where they go, we may have shot them huh? LOL
Ian
Notorious member
I've cast with quite a few MP HP moulds and have found them to be the easiest "production" design to use, by far. The most I ever had to to maintenance-wise to the guide pins is lightly polish a burr that I created when my pliers slipped trying to install one of those "Jesus" clips. I never needed to lube the pins in any manner, either. The advise to keep them about 1/4-1/2 turn loose in the spuds is good, but keep an eye on it because they tend to work their way out.
My biggest challenge with the big, brass, 4C MP HP moulds is to be able to run the smaller calibers fast enough to keep the pins hot enough to make clean cavities and not have that little bubble in the bottom.
My biggest challenge with the big, brass, 4C MP HP moulds is to be able to run the smaller calibers fast enough to keep the pins hot enough to make clean cavities and not have that little bubble in the bottom.
Gotcha, but still, I have no problem keeping the cadence up. I'll be talking to Bob soon and I'll question him. He would post on this forum and try to help, but for some reason he can't post here. He can log in and that's where it goes all wrong. It won't let him post. He said something about something being greyed out. I don't know. He has a damn Model T computer, maybe that's it, but he's not on dialup as he has the satellite internet. Anyone help him?
Last edited:
Well I did talk to Bob. He said the pins should be finger snug, then backed off a wee bit. He said for as keeping a cadence he casts as small as 25 caliber hollow point for the 25 acp so we know how small that is and he has no problems keeping a cadence. I'm not going to repeat what he said the solution was for those that can't. 
F
freebullet
Guest
I've not been at this long as you, but heres what I do. Make sure the pins are on the left block with the sprue tab facing away.
Clean them & the channels with volatile solvent before warming up. Usually don't have to lube more than once or twice a session. Gummy or sticky screams oxidized oil binding the slides. I use a cotton swab, just pull the poof off the end apply solvent & they fit right in. Should be slippy slidey at that point.
I did camfer the base holes where the pins ride on one due to a minor fit issue, another I sanded the pins themselves down a bit due to minor roughness locking bullets on.
Hope any of that helps.
Got a real way with words don't he..
Last edited by a moderator:
Pretty sure this and past posts by Bob is what Brad was referring to.
I'm not going to repeat what he said the solution was for those that can't.
RBHarter
West Central AR
Practice . Patience . Practice . Routine .
One sentence or separate words , it makes no difference . That is the solution to repetitive tasks that don't run smoothly after the tools are right .
Sometimes the tools just aren't right for you .
Lyman HB pins are the epitome of simplicity and how I loathe the knob retention rivet ........ I'll take the M-P pins every day . If they keep coming unscrewed I'll just drill them for a floating safety wire . Fortunately only 1 of 4 base pins is 1 unlocked screw from running freely and I don't need that pin at this time so no problem .
One sentence or separate words , it makes no difference . That is the solution to repetitive tasks that don't run smoothly after the tools are right .
Sometimes the tools just aren't right for you .
Lyman HB pins are the epitome of simplicity and how I loathe the knob retention rivet ........ I'll take the M-P pins every day . If they keep coming unscrewed I'll just drill them for a floating safety wire .
Fortunately only 1 of 4 base pins is 1 unlocked screw from running freely and I don't need that pin at this time so no problem .Okay I will post this and then I'm finished with it. Bob emailed me and wants me to post what he had written off. The very first sentence is what he said that I wasn't go to tell you all. In my opinion it's not all that bad, but I figured some would take it that way. With no further ado this is his message:
Here is what I said to Vince: I told him they should learn to cast. ALL this information has been in writing and been posted on the internet for quite a while, unfortunately people seem to want to do it there own way and modify anything and everything they read or see. Specifically you need to do these things:
- Have a clean mold that opens and closes uniformly, the same every time. Most do and some don’t.
- A mold mallet made of wood of a convenient size for the mold used.
- Use a dipper that is appropriately sized for the mold you are using that allows a good pour volume to fill the cavities well without rounded bands, base or anything else. You want visually perfect bullets. Anything else is usually a waste of components.
- An alloy appropriate to the use you’re trying to put it to. A lot more can be and has been said about that.
- Have the mold hot enough so the melted allow doesn’t stick to it…… specifically hot enough so the alloy freezes in 3 ½ to 4 seconds after you finish filling the cavities.
- This one determines whether you can cast or not. Use a scale to weigh your bullets. If they vary more than +/- 0.1 grains from the others in weight, then you need to keep trying until you learn how to do that. A clue….. bottom pour probably will NOT get you there.