Need to clean up muzzle on a smith .357 model 28
- Thread starter bruce381
- Start date
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
Just looked up the measurements on my .357 Taurus. Brass rod fits bore at .347, with .356 lands to lands.
Do not know if that helps.
I never ordered a guide rod and cutter, I always just ran a file across the end, then used a brass screw and valve grinding compound in a drill, followed by Flitz.
Do not know if that helps.
I never ordered a guide rod and cutter, I always just ran a file across the end, then used a brass screw and valve grinding compound in a drill, followed by Flitz.
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bruce381
Active Member
thanks when I get it I may try brass screw deal (is free) and if no joy just rent the 4D tool so i need to have idea of bore I will get a few sizes to be sure or Ill ask them whats common.
L Ross
Well-Known Member
My first question would be, "Is the ding hurting anything?"
bruce381
Active Member
did not shoot yet but it bugs me thats reason enought to do something about in my mind.
Maybe just brass screw it and polish and re touch with cold blue can always rent tool if needed.
I do not shoot pistol as well as I used to bad eyes but like a new car I look at the ding as the first thing I see.
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Since I can't see it, I won't suggest a solution to your specific gun, but will share that the brass screw (round-head) and abrasive compound will do a nice job - at least it has for me - cleaning up the crown very nicely and precisely.
I use 320 grit because it's what I have, still leaves a nice sheen on that small, circular sliver of exposed metal. I've only gone as far as to JUST get into the terminus of the grooves, so very, very little bare metal shows and isn't worth messing with cold-bluing. I've never tried to clean up a whole muzzle for aesthetics' sake.
If you've lapped before, my apologies for being redundant, but don't press too hard on the screw. Just enough pressure to keep it evenly in contact along the entire circumference as you turn it. I use a cordless drill-motor on "low," and slowly "wobble" the drill/screw continually. I push a patch to the muzzle from the breech to keep compound from migrating into the bore and push it out and then push a wet patch out from breech to muzzle to clean before inspection. It doesn't take long, even if you repeat the patch process five or six times, going slow and being careful.
bruce381
Active Member
yeah thats how I do it thanks
Ian
Notorious member
Those are called "ball gauges" or "small hole gauges".
If you shop the 'Zon online you can pick up an Anytime Tools brand 0-1" micrometer for about $20 and they are excellent quality. 5-piece ball gauge set is less than that but tough to get accurate measurement on 5-spline hole.
If you shop the 'Zon online you can pick up an Anytime Tools brand 0-1" micrometer for about $20 and they are excellent quality. 5-piece ball gauge set is less than that but tough to get accurate measurement on 5-spline hole.
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I have an old four-piece Starrett "Small Hole Gauge" set that I use a lot. It takes some practice to use them, but it's not overly difficult and they DO help figure out when a hole is out of round. I don't rely on this exclusively, but as a redundant method to bounce off of slugging/mic'ing. Still need a mic' either way, but a fella should have one of those anyway.
Geez! $20 for a good mic'! That's what technology has done for us. I shelled out $40 for a decent mic' forty years ago and it was a chunk of cash back then. I forgot what the tubing mic' cost me on purpose.
Pin gauges are the way to go.
Slugging the bore and a having good micrometer won't help much for a couple reasons: S&W makes 5-land barrels; it's difficult to measure the diameter of the slug. Moreover, that technique will give you the groove diameter when you want the bore diameter.
Slugging the bore and a having good micrometer won't help much for a couple reasons: S&W makes 5-land barrels; it's difficult to measure the diameter of the slug. Moreover, that technique will give you the groove diameter when you want the bore diameter.
Charles Graff
Moderator Emeritus
Prime question: Has metal been moved into or in front of the bore? If the answer is yes, that require one approach. If the answer is no, then another approach.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Cordless, or at least variable speed drills! What a Godsend. When I was helping Dad in the gun shop we used the brass ball method, but since our only drill was a single speed Craftsman at that time, it was the old reliable Millers Falls egg beater drill! I still have that tool and it still works great! The first "cordless drill"!
OT, I know, sorry!
OT, I know, sorry!
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
The 38 Revolver brass pilot for my Brownells Facing and Chamfering tool measures .344 if that's what you're looking for. Mine is specifically marked for revolvers. My chamfering cutter is 45*, which is probably the most common.
Is this the information you're looking for?
Is this the information you're looking for?
Charles Graff
Moderator Emeritus
I have had a Miller's Falls "breast drill for well over 65 years and still use it along with a brace and a whole bunch of bits.