Powder coating?
- Thread starter johnnyjr
- Start date
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Yup. ONE properly applied coat.
johnnyjr
Well-Known Member
So,, what is the real advantage of the powder coating.. I've only tried a few. I read where no gas checks are needed, where you can use a lot softer alloy like bhn of 7 or so. Seems to me the softer the bullet is the slower the velocity would have to be.. so much to learn so little time.. I have even read about pure lead coated in 308s with no leading... thanks. Johnny
Josh
Well-Known Member
I treat PC just like a regular lube. I'll use the same BNH alloy, the same checks, and the same reloading techniques. I just don't use a lubricant. One coat of PC and in the oven it goes.
There's only one thing I don't do the same, that's sizing. I only size 0.001" over groove diameter instead of trying to fill every nook and cranny of the throat.
There's only one thing I don't do the same, that's sizing. I only size 0.001" over groove diameter instead of trying to fill every nook and cranny of the throat.
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CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Your going to extremes Johnny!!!!!
1) You can use SOFTER not necessarily PURE LEAD!!
2) Powder coat DOES NOT replace the need for a Gas Check!!!
It can raise the velocity threshold where a GC is required. IMHO can eliminate the need for a GC on a typical revolver Magnum cartridge
shooting Powder coated lead bullets.
CW
I’ve been using PC almost form the start. I haven’t had any issues with it, and I’m positive i haven’t done things to the T perfect every time. I use one coat and bake, size, load, and shoot.
One thing I will print out is making sure the powder bakes properly. I do 400-425* and preheat 10 minutes, check, if powder is starting to liquify good I let go for 5-10 minutes, When it has a really nice wet look I bake 10 more minutes then pull them. If you don’t bake long enough the powder won’t cure correctly and now you have a problem and it will cause you more problems As you go. I have yet to overcook a batch at 30 minutes. It has to do with how many your doing, but you will get the feel for it. I normally do 160 30 Cals at a time, less bullets, less preheat, etc. I just keep an eye on them and when they get that nice shiny wet look I go 10 minutes after that.
One thing I will print out is making sure the powder bakes properly. I do 400-425* and preheat 10 minutes, check, if powder is starting to liquify good I let go for 5-10 minutes, When it has a really nice wet look I bake 10 more minutes then pull them. If you don’t bake long enough the powder won’t cure correctly and now you have a problem and it will cause you more problems As you go. I have yet to overcook a batch at 30 minutes. It has to do with how many your doing, but you will get the feel for it. I normally do 160 30 Cals at a time, less bullets, less preheat, etc. I just keep an eye on them and when they get that nice shiny wet look I go 10 minutes after that.
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
All my rifles are now shot with PC some have a BLL coat! Some shoot it more accurately for some reason...and that is fine with me
Same with pistols but all have that light BLL coating!
Ben's Liquid Lube has some sort of stabilizing effect on pistol bullets with PC coating and a few rifle bullets with BLL coating!
Same with pistols but all have that light BLL coating!
Ben's Liquid Lube has some sort of stabilizing effect on pistol bullets with PC coating and a few rifle bullets with BLL coating!
PC must be at proper cure temp for a min of 15 min to cure properly. Doesn't make any difference on longer time - I do 1/2 hr when W.D. has an effect. Just DON'T go over-temp! I don't do 223 but I would recommend sizing first, acetone/alky wash to clean, then PC with ASBBs so the coating is more even. Some are stating PVC is better for static than #5, haven't tried it yet.
I found the BBs to be more of a nuisance than anything. I'm using #5, but find that swirling bullets in the almost clean tub prior to adding litte bits of powder at a time seems to help. I keep adding powder and swirling until they won't take any more, and then shake them in a wire strainer to remove the excess. I tend to go longer on time, but 15 minutes on PC that has that wet look as they come up to temperature seems to be fine. I've gone 30 minutes plus and temps to about 445F thermometer indicated with no issues with the powder.
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I got mine at WM. They were back with the BB guns and such.
Ian
Notorious member
We all have different ways of putting the powder on, if you're having trouble try some of what's been suggested. Fresh Eastwood powders are about the best there is. Don't buy on sale, that means it's old, found that out the hard way. Recharged desiccant packs help bring old powder back a little but aren't the end-all.
I settled on the heavy BBs and sandwich containers with silicone lid seals. I shake the jeezus out of them for no less than two minutes finishing with an extra-vigorous up-down-up-DOWN and then carefully set down and open it without disturbing anything inside and pick the bullets out with needlenose pliers.
I settled on the heavy BBs and sandwich containers with silicone lid seals. I shake the jeezus out of them for no less than two minutes finishing with an extra-vigorous up-down-up-DOWN and then carefully set down and open it without disturbing anything inside and pick the bullets out with needlenose pliers.