Remington 1903-A3
- Thread starter Josh
- Start date
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
Ok ...Looking good ...the butt plate is SC....
Looks like there might be a small "R" stamped on the barrel/bayonet band...good Remington.
What are the markings on the bolt...should be "R' stamped in a couple of places..also the stricker looks like a 1903 Remington..
here are the two 03a3's
Three 1903's
Notice the differences in knurling...
Put the bullet nose first in the muzzle....
The barrel date would suggest a 2 groove ...but it could be a four groove..
Looks like there might be a small "R" stamped on the barrel/bayonet band...good Remington.
What are the markings on the bolt...should be "R' stamped in a couple of places..also the stricker looks like a 1903 Remington..
here are the two 03a3's
Three 1903's
Notice the differences in knurling...
Put the bullet nose first in the muzzle....
The barrel date would suggest a 2 groove ...but it could be a four groove..
fiver
Well-Known Member
remember the term "blowing the rust out of it" now you know where it come from.
wrap about 5-6 301 diameter boolits with 2 wraps of bright white printer paper, and run through your 308 or 309 sizer with a little lube on them.
load on top of a starting jacketed load with .001 or no neck tension and shoot in a wetted and dry patched bore.
then go ahead and do your cleaning regimen.
wrap about 5-6 301 diameter boolits with 2 wraps of bright white printer paper, and run through your 308 or 309 sizer with a little lube on them.
load on top of a starting jacketed load with .001 or no neck tension and shoot in a wetted and dry patched bore.
then go ahead and do your cleaning regimen.
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
When you think it is clean, pour a quart of boiling water slowly through the chamber and bore. Wipe with one clean patch. Then you will realize you have to start all over again. Amazing what that will pull out of the grooves and pores of the bore.
When you think it is clean, pour a quart of boiling water slowly through the chamber and bore. Wipe with one clean patch. Then you will realize you have to start all over again. Amazing what that will pull out of the grooves and pores of the bore.
You're exactly right ! !
You're exactly right ! !
Josh
Well-Known Member
Well that's just cool, I will do this with my 311466 for plenty of contact.
fiver
Well-Known Member
remember this is a fairly extreme cleaning technique.
if you wanna try paper patching for real bright white printer paper is NOT what you want to use on a normal basis.
Green bar printer paper will work, and a cotton content paper is really best.
I use a 25% cotton rag paper, others use more cotton content.
but it will clean deep and polish the bore at the same time which is what your looking to do here until you get to good-nuff or metal.
if you wanna try paper patching for real bright white printer paper is NOT what you want to use on a normal basis.
Green bar printer paper will work, and a cotton content paper is really best.
I use a 25% cotton rag paper, others use more cotton content.
but it will clean deep and polish the bore at the same time which is what your looking to do here until you get to good-nuff or metal.
Wish I had such good info years back when I started fooling with 03's. A very informative thread, I don't shoot mine as much as I used too.
What I finally got to clean my bore up was the wipe out foaming cleaner. It took about 2-3 over night soaks. That carbon and jacket fouling in layers is a bear to get out. Well worth the effort.
I enjoy the old milsurps, wish I had bought them when they were cheap. I did get in on the K31's, first three I bought I gave $79 each and they all came with some ammo. Had close to a dozen at one time. Excellent shooters btw but can be challenging at times.
I then picked up an argentine in excellent shape. Another good shooter with some elbow grease.
Then a Swede 6.5x55, swore I would never cast for anything smaller than a 30 caliber.
The K31 I set up for matches was just amazing with jacketed and cast, at least to me. Shot it several times at 1000k with Sierra MK and factory ammo, what a hoot!
Then had to have a Krag. Found one and an excellent shooter also.
Then came the Mosin Nagant M39. Now I really hate to say this but, it out shoots all but the K31. It is really close onto the heels of the K31. Never got to stretch its legs as I don't have access to my 1000k range any more.
Be careful with the milsurps as the tend to multiply. I would suggest you see if you can snag that Krag. Put it on payments or something if you are in good with the shop. If you don't you will regret it.
I enjoy researching the history on these old girls as much as shooting them. I lost it in a computer crash some time back,mbut there was a web site you could your serial number in and get a lot of info on your rifle. This was for American rifles WWI and WWII.
Jeff
What I finally got to clean my bore up was the wipe out foaming cleaner. It took about 2-3 over night soaks. That carbon and jacket fouling in layers is a bear to get out. Well worth the effort.
I enjoy the old milsurps, wish I had bought them when they were cheap. I did get in on the K31's, first three I bought I gave $79 each and they all came with some ammo. Had close to a dozen at one time. Excellent shooters btw but can be challenging at times.
I then picked up an argentine in excellent shape. Another good shooter with some elbow grease.
Then a Swede 6.5x55, swore I would never cast for anything smaller than a 30 caliber.
The K31 I set up for matches was just amazing with jacketed and cast, at least to me. Shot it several times at 1000k with Sierra MK and factory ammo, what a hoot!
Then had to have a Krag. Found one and an excellent shooter also.
Then came the Mosin Nagant M39. Now I really hate to say this but, it out shoots all but the K31. It is really close onto the heels of the K31. Never got to stretch its legs as I don't have access to my 1000k range any more.
Be careful with the milsurps as the tend to multiply. I would suggest you see if you can snag that Krag. Put it on payments or something if you are in good with the shop. If you don't you will regret it.
I enjoy researching the history on these old girls as much as shooting them. I lost it in a computer crash some time back,mbut there was a web site you could your serial number in and get a lot of info on your rifle. This was for American rifles WWI and WWII.
Jeff
Last edited:
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
Two thoughts;
1. Bring a cleaning rod, patches and a bore. brush...check bore between shots to make sure all the paper and powder. residue is out.
2. It will be interesting to see how a paper. . sabotage shoots.
Interesting concept, I thought the original idea was to take a regular 30 cal (309-310) cast bullet and paper patch that..
While I am here does anyone else remember a long thread about removing rust from barrels...one of the suggestion was soaking the bore with citric acid...cider vinegar I believe.....I did it ,it works ..but be careful it will turn metal grey...
1. Bring a cleaning rod, patches and a bore. brush...check bore between shots to make sure all the paper and powder. residue is out.
2. It will be interesting to see how a paper. . sabotage shoots.
Interesting concept, I thought the original idea was to take a regular 30 cal (309-310) cast bullet and paper patch that..
While I am here does anyone else remember a long thread about removing rust from barrels...one of the suggestion was soaking the bore with citric acid...cider vinegar I believe.....I did it ,it works ..but be careful it will turn metal grey...
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
Josh,
You will be surprised. I tried paper patching my Sauer Mauser...even with the great help here I still was winging it. Worst thing that happened was a heavy smell of burnt paper in the air! and if the wind was just right it would fly back in your face
But all rounds went down range!
Jim
You will be surprised. I tried paper patching my Sauer Mauser...even with the great help here I still was winging it. Worst thing that happened was a heavy smell of burnt paper in the air! and if the wind was just right it would fly back in your face
But all rounds went down range!
Jim
Josh
Well-Known Member
Ok, I have some good, bad, and horrible news...
The good: It fires and the patched bullets cleaned a metric ton of junk from the bore. I mean raised rust, copper fouling, and the darkness about halfway down the bore is gone.
The Bad: This barrel is pitted, horribly, I took a picture but it doesn't show the pitting very well, basically looks like the moon surface in there.
The Ugly: This rifle shot 10 factory jacketed loads I had laying around, 180 gr Federal, at 25 yds it was sending the bullets out into a 5 inch group with obvious yaw. At 50 yds they did not hit with any regularity on a pizza box size target. They were everywhere on it, still with obvious yaw.
So right now I have a historically important paperweight, it just wouldn't shoot. If I buy another 1903-A3 barrel and have it popped up to 338-06 I can save the barrel on the rifle and be able to go back to original. I think this is the only way to make this rifle a shooter without compromising it's value.
I may be able to find an old barrel at my smith that is capable, I also know a few guys that may have one lying around. What is your opinion guys?
The good: It fires and the patched bullets cleaned a metric ton of junk from the bore. I mean raised rust, copper fouling, and the darkness about halfway down the bore is gone.
The Bad: This barrel is pitted, horribly, I took a picture but it doesn't show the pitting very well, basically looks like the moon surface in there.
The Ugly: This rifle shot 10 factory jacketed loads I had laying around, 180 gr Federal, at 25 yds it was sending the bullets out into a 5 inch group with obvious yaw. At 50 yds they did not hit with any regularity on a pizza box size target. They were everywhere on it, still with obvious yaw.
So right now I have a historically important paperweight, it just wouldn't shoot. If I buy another 1903-A3 barrel and have it popped up to 338-06 I can save the barrel on the rifle and be able to go back to original. I think this is the only way to make this rifle a shooter without compromising it's value.
I may be able to find an old barrel at my smith that is capable, I also know a few guys that may have one lying around. What is your opinion guys?