Ruger Blackhawk problems

[waco]

I put new hammer and trigger springs in my new Balckhawk 45 convertible. All was well until I started getting some light primer strikes. No big deal. I'll just put the factory hammer spring back in. I can not figure out why I'm now having hang ups in pulling back the hammer. Sometimes it works, other times it catches and won't let you pull the hammer back all the way. I have noticed if you point the revolver straight up in the air the problem goes away. Hold it horizontal and most of the time you can't pull the hammer back. Something is hanging up. That strut and spring only go in one way. Not sure what to do. I hosed the thing down with CLP and I'm letting it soak a bit then I'll blow it out with compressed air. Any ideas?

 

[Brad]

Sounds like the transfer bar is hanging up on something.

Did you do a complete strip or just remove the spring? Is the hammer strut in backwards? That has gotten me before.

 

[waco]

Just removed the spring and replaced it with the stock one. Took a pick of the strut when I removed it to make sure it went back in the same way.

 

[waco]

Put the cylinder back in and it seems to work now except the trigger wont fully reset until you put the slightest amount of pressure on the hammer.

 

[Brad]

Might need to do a complete strip to clean up whatever is clogging things up.
Hardest part is dealing with the spring for the bolt stop. You could actually leave that alone.
First remove hammer spring strut. Then remove grip frame. That lets you observe the workings better. Might see something right off?
Once grip frame is off the hammer screw can be removed. Hammer comes right out. This allows even better cleaning and view of inside frame.
Leave trigger in place, removing that screw opens a can of worms getting it back in. The spring in a reach somnabeetch to get back in without the right tool. Even with the tool it isn’t fun.

You are mechanically inclined enough to handle this

 

[Brad]

Just in case....

Mine are old enough to have screws, not pins for hammer and trigger.

 

[462]

Looking at the bottom of the gun, and at the rear of the trigger, is the looped end of the trigger spring visible?
If it is that, is the problem. Using a small enough punch you can push it toward the rear and it will drop into its notch, in the back of the trigger.
If it is not visible, the problem is elsewhere.

Are the trigger spring legs/one leg hooked onto their/its stud?

If you didn't remove the grip frame, the internals should not be the problem.

Just to be 100% positive, even though you took a picture, double check that the hammer strut is installed correctly. The slight hump should be on top, and the nose pointing down.

 

[waco]

I put the factory trigger spring back in and that fixed the problem. Bummer. I was liking that 1 1/2 pound trigger!

 

[462]

Poor man's trigger job, man! Disconnect one of the trigger springs from its stud.
I disconnect the one on the right side, only because that's the side the grip screw is located.

I suspect the trigger spring wasn't seated in the back of the trigger, or not fully seated (can't imagine that scenario, though).

Glad it's all working as designed.

 

[waco]

I'll take Brad's advice for now on how to smooth things up. Shoot it a lot!...

 

[Brad]

It is quite effective and rather enjoyable. It also reaches good trigger control.

 

[Creeker]

I have noticed if you point the revolver straight up in the air the problem goes away. Hold it horizontal and most of the time you can't pull the hammer back. Something is hanging up.
Any ideas?

Check the transfer bar. Sounds like it may not be clearing the firing pin.

 

[waco]

Lynn. All things being equal, when I put both factory springs back in that fixed the problem. Gun functioned fine with the aftermarket springs just didn't give consistent ignition.

 

[Walks]

Ruger has an Excellent disassembly/reassembly you-tube video on their Website.

Makes it So Easy.

 

[Rushcreek]

I used Wilson spring kits on my 80' SingleSix for a 1-3/4# pull and a 2-1/4# pull on my 2019 Blackhawk. The kit just had a trigger spring and mainspring in it. The Wrangler goes 4# with a leg unhooked- good enough for it. I've heard that Wolff kits are good but I haven't used them.

 

[waco]

Poor man's trigger job, man! Disconnect one of the trigger springs from its stud.
I disconnect the one on the right side, only because that's the side the grip screw is located.

I suspect the trigger spring wasn't seated in the back of the trigger, or not fully seated (can't imagine that scenario, though).

Glad it's all working as designed.

Just gave this a try. Trigger went from 4 1/2 pounds to 2 1/2 ponds. I’ll take it out tomorrow and see if ignition is consistent.

 

[462]

Cool, man! (Insert a very big happy-for-you face.)

 

[gman]

I always use the Wolff reduced trigger return spring but stick with the factory hammer spring to avoid primer ignition problems. Personally I don’t care for the poor man’s trigger job. Just me but I like having that spring connected fully.

 

[Blaster]

The spring loaded plunger in the base pin pushes the transfer bar clear of the firing pin. Base pin fully seated?

 

[Walks]

I ground down the hammer spring on every Ruger SA I've ever owned.
It's a touch and go proposition. I've Never left a trigger spring arm "hanging" .

Never heard of that before now.