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freebullet
Guest
That's a real bee-u-tee! I'd have to go ahead & darken or scratch the brass to get it out of the way & off my mind.
Skinner Sights
- Thread starter gman
- Start date
Ian
Notorious member
The brass of both the Skinner sights and Henry hardware is surprisingly durable. My rifle flipped over in the bags one time and landed right in the loading block full of empty cases. No scratches. It was a real chore to dress down the sides of my sight to get rid of the belt sander marks, that brass is TOUGH. Skinner claims that they have only needed to warranty two of their sights, ever. One got caught in a closing safe door and sheared off, the other was ground to the aperture threads when the rifle fell out of a vehicle at highway speeds and skidded down the pavement.
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freebullet
Guest
Glad you didn't jack it up. I would not be so lucky. If I handed it to my wife...fugetaboutit, it will be tested beyond the limit, I promise. We could destroy an mrap roun' here.
Ian
Notorious member
Got just a little range time in between storm squalls today and learned I have a lot to learn about the particulars of aperture sights. The big brass bead is probably going to have to 'go', but I don't know if it's just me or not yet. I was able to turn in a 2" 50-yard group after a few tries but was just aiming at the center of a piece of typing paper, no marks. At 25 I could drill a ragged hole with a black circle, but with an orange pasty I could barely get a 1" group. Unfortunately I didn't have a lighter with me and switched from the too-small .095" aperture to the un-blacked .125" aperture and had reflection problems galore from the SW afternoon sun. Looks like some of this years shooting will be dedicated to becoming a better open-sight rifleman, and learning to deal with my failing up-close, middle-aged vision as well as learning how to properly use the Skinner sight system. First shooting impressions are lukewarm due to my newbie-ess.
Any of you eggspurts with match aperture sights, would you please give this dummy some tips?
Any of you eggspurts with match aperture sights, would you please give this dummy some tips?
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
Black blade front. works the best for me and what I have on all mine but one. And that is because that one is a Rem Mdl 14 and want the look of the front bead - and won' shoot it past 50 yds anyway! Rear apperature needs to be black also. Probably stating the obvious, but rear should be fuzzy, front focused. Also, I shoot better with a 6" black bull, and put the top of the front blade in the center of the rear "ghost" and then "set" the black bull on top of the blade. If I see a shady white line b/n blade and bull, I am almost perfect. That puts me about 1" high at 50 - which for my lever guns and cast is perfect. In lieu of a round bull, you can also use a black square that is the exact same width as the front sight at the distance that you are shooting at.
Ian
Notorious member
I agree that the big, honkin' brass front bead is part of my problem. I may just file off the top bit of the sight that holds the bead and cold-blue it since it's too high anyway. The rear aperture is at just about the upward limit of adjustment anyway and my groups are about 3" low at 50 yards yet. 25 yard groups are about 3/4" low. Any tips for making the inside of the aperture permanently "matte"? The Skinner apertures are blue/black but very shiny inside, I'm thinking a Q-tip and some flat black paint would help.
Ian,
This may not be the response you were looking for, however, the best work I've ever done with open sights was decades ago when I shot small bore position. Those rifles had apertures front and rear. The opening sizes were selected for the size of the bull and the distance to the target. What worked best for me was when a very slight white ring could be perceived around the bull. Center the bull in the front aperture and break the shot. I have known highly skilled position shooters that shot better prone than from the bench.
This may not be the response you were looking for, however, the best work I've ever done with open sights was decades ago when I shot small bore position. Those rifles had apertures front and rear. The opening sizes were selected for the size of the bull and the distance to the target. What worked best for me was when a very slight white ring could be perceived around the bull. Center the bull in the front aperture and break the shot. I have known highly skilled position shooters that shot better prone than from the bench.
Ian
Notorious member
GMAN: I'm shooting an Accurate 255-grain RFN pushed with 7.3 grains of Universal. 7.8 grains had been my load for a long time until I got quickload and realized it was over pressure for the standard-pressure loads (so is 9.0 grains of Unique, another standby of many) so I backed off to the next smallest disc. If it hadn't been raining I would have hooked up the Magnetospeed and checked the velocity vs. QL predictions to see if the pressure prediction was accurate. I suspect that with Herco and 305-grain Lee bullets the POI at 50 will be significantly higher, but that's not what I plan to shoot for fun.
TONY: I have a decent amount of trigger time with my Shiloh Sharps 45/90 and have done just as you mention using the dual aperture system. It is VERY effective if the bull and apertures are sized just right to get that white ring. An NRA 100 yard rifle target at 200 yards worked out about right for me with the front sight inserts I have on hand. This brass bead and rear aperture system is a little difficult to manage due to low contrast and slight halo around the top of the front bead. OFT's mention of the square front post/blade might be the ticket.
TONY: I have a decent amount of trigger time with my Shiloh Sharps 45/90 and have done just as you mention using the dual aperture system. It is VERY effective if the bull and apertures are sized just right to get that white ring. An NRA 100 yard rifle target at 200 yards worked out about right for me with the front sight inserts I have on hand. This brass bead and rear aperture system is a little difficult to manage due to low contrast and slight halo around the top of the front bead. OFT's mention of the square front post/blade might be the ticket.
Square top blade front sight. Hold 6 o'clock or just below with a line of white showing. The front needs to be flat black for no glare. No decent Highpower shooter was without a way to blacken sights.
A rear back on the rear of the action helps too. Use the smallest aperature you can handle and get enough light. This helps sharpen focus on target and sight.
Good target sights are not always good hunting or field sights.
A rear back on the rear of the action helps too. Use the smallest aperature you can handle and get enough light. This helps sharpen focus on target and sight.
Good target sights are not always good hunting or field sights.
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto ! !
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
I switched to a post front disk in my target sights when my eyes went wonky. Had been using
double aperture for Swiss rifle shooting, worked well. Suddenly the aperture on front wasn't clear
enough, but a bold post was good. Actually tried the triple post, too. It was good but slower to
find the extremely low contrast Swiss silhouette in rapid fire, net loser for my iffy eyes.
Bill
double aperture for Swiss rifle shooting, worked well. Suddenly the aperture on front wasn't clear
enough, but a bold post was good. Actually tried the triple post, too. It was good but slower to
find the extremely low contrast Swiss silhouette in rapid fire, net loser for my iffy eyes.
Bill
Ian
Notorious member
Gman, from the one photo looking down the barrel it appears you left the brass bead up front like I did. I think that is our whole problem. Try taping that Skinner blade on there behind the front sight just for a look and see if you think that improves the 50-yard sight picture.
Over the weekend I also did some shooting with a new set of flip-up AR sights which had a pretty fine front post and overly-large rear aperture. The post was wonderfully clear and precise at 50 yards....if I held the buttstock about 4" off my shoulder. I stuck a 2x4 block edgewise against my shoulder to space the rifle forward and shot a 1" group even with the huge ghost ring rear aperture. The short hand guard and rearward favor of the front sight put the post too close to my aging eyes, right in that zone where things are getting fuzzy without reading glasses. Dangit, I'm going to have to put longer hand guards on all my ARs now. On the Henry, I can still see that front sight clearly, but the brass bead is a mess of halos and crescent reflections around the edges which makes it really tough to "aim small".
Over the weekend I also did some shooting with a new set of flip-up AR sights which had a pretty fine front post and overly-large rear aperture. The post was wonderfully clear and precise at 50 yards....if I held the buttstock about 4" off my shoulder. I stuck a 2x4 block edgewise against my shoulder to space the rifle forward and shot a 1" group even with the huge ghost ring rear aperture. The short hand guard and rearward favor of the front sight put the post too close to my aging eyes, right in that zone where things are getting fuzzy without reading glasses. Dangit, I'm going to have to put longer hand guards on all my ARs now. On the Henry, I can still see that front sight clearly, but the brass bead is a mess of halos and crescent reflections around the edges which makes it really tough to "aim small".
gman
Well-Known Member
I did leave that brass bead front sight on. Figured I'd try it first. Like you I do see it but your description of what you see nails it. Easy enough to get the elevation set. I could manage 3-4 good shots then they would open. Did some shooting with my Ruger 357 Maximum today also. Same problem with the eyes. Usually get the first 4 shots tight then the next 2 open groups. Very fun handgun to shoot. I'm going to try a reflex sight on it. May mount tomorrow.
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
Hell, I'd be tickled to death to have my 55 year old eyes back. I could still really see then.
Ian, the ARs that I have put together in the last few years have been on midlength handguards to
put the front sight where I can see it. The carbine length handguards guns are useless with irons
for me now.
Bill
Ian, the ARs that I have put together in the last few years have been on midlength handguards to
put the front sight where I can see it. The carbine length handguards guns are useless with irons
for me now.
Bill
Ian,
Part of your problem with the Skinner on the Henry is that it puts the aperture too far away from the eye. The top, rearward mounted sight is better, but a tang sight would have been better yet. A hooded front sight prevents varying angles of light, so the result is consistency. Unfortunately, hooded front sights (globes) don't work well in low light. Too, small apertures that work best at the range in ideal light are too small for use in the woods or other than ideal light. I generally prefer a 1/16" gold bead front and largish rear aperture for leverguns. The gold bead can be blackened for range work and the rear aperture changed out if necessary. Fiber optic front sights can work nicely in the field, but suck at the target range.
Iron sights an an AR carbine? You've got to be kidding! Take a look at the prism scopes (etched reticle with no or low magnification) or a low powered variable, preferably with illuminated reticle. Here's something else you might want to consider for a short AR https://seeallopensight.com/
Part of your problem with the Skinner on the Henry is that it puts the aperture too far away from the eye. The top, rearward mounted sight is better, but a tang sight would have been better yet. A hooded front sight prevents varying angles of light, so the result is consistency. Unfortunately, hooded front sights (globes) don't work well in low light. Too, small apertures that work best at the range in ideal light are too small for use in the woods or other than ideal light. I generally prefer a 1/16" gold bead front and largish rear aperture for leverguns. The gold bead can be blackened for range work and the rear aperture changed out if necessary. Fiber optic front sights can work nicely in the field, but suck at the target range.
Iron sights an an AR carbine? You've got to be kidding! Take a look at the prism scopes (etched reticle with no or low magnification) or a low powered variable, preferably with illuminated reticle. Here's something else you might want to consider for a short AR https://seeallopensight.com/
Ian
Notorious member
Not kidding about irons on an AR. The one I mentioned guards the bedroom and in that role I refuse to use anything that relies on batteries for aiming.
If I'd thought about presbyopia two years ago (actually I did, a lot, but it just didn't occur to me it would be a problem one day when building ARs) some things would have been different.
I can barely use a tang sight due to very high concentrations of vitreous condensation. Rear receiver-mounted apertures and none too small are all I can work with. The barrel-mounted aperture works fine for me, no problems except for all the glare inside the shiny aperture of the Skinner, it's the front sight that needs attention.
If I'd thought about presbyopia two years ago (actually I did, a lot, but it just didn't occur to me it would be a problem one day when building ARs) some things would have been different.
I can barely use a tang sight due to very high concentrations of vitreous condensation. Rear receiver-mounted apertures and none too small are all I can work with. The barrel-mounted aperture works fine for me, no problems except for all the glare inside the shiny aperture of the Skinner, it's the front sight that needs attention.
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freebullet
Guest
Ya but, how sweet would a brass scope look on her brass frame. Maybe 4-6x at the top end on the lc.
On the ar9 the aimpoint & sights all line up together. Plus the battery lasts....well, I ain't changed it in 4 years & it was used then , so almost forever. Smaller the dot the better imo.
Been known to sharpen or thin a front sight for less width of fuzzy up front.
Everything is a trade off. How you plan to use it matters.
On the ar9 the aimpoint & sights all line up together. Plus the battery lasts....well, I ain't changed it in 4 years & it was used then , so almost forever. Smaller the dot the better imo.
Been known to sharpen or thin a front sight for less width of fuzzy up front.
Everything is a trade off. How you plan to use it matters.