Soaking solvent

Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have a couple revolvers with a substantial buildup in the chambers. These are 357 revolvers fires mostly with 38 specials. We all know that ring/buildup.

I used some Hopes. I used a bronze brush with some 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. I used a 357 case with a flare on end.

I know that acetone/ATF works well for loosening rusted bolts/nuts. I know ATF has some good solvent/cleaning properties.

Would a good soak, say overnight, help loosen that buildup? Would it be safe on a blued revolver? Plan is to remove cylinder and soak overnight in a can of ATF.
 
S Mac

S Mac

Sept. 10, 2021 Steve left us. You are missed.
I use a Ford branded carb cleaner, not sure it can be bought by the public. My thoughts are a carb cleaner you can buy at a parts store, labeled to remove carbon would likely work, spray enough to let it soak for a while, maybe in a closed container. Probably brush a bit after soaking. Pretty stout fumes, need good ventilation. Eye protection and gloves too.
 
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CZ93X62

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
One of my pet irritants in revolver chambers. I stopped using "Special" brass in "Magnum" chambers a long time ago for just this reason.

Ii early times of my career, my 357s had to go back on the line within hours of being fired, sometimes within minutes on a quals day. I didn't have time to soak the cylinder in anything. I just brushed it out as best I could, called it GOOD, and refilled the charge holes with the 38 Special +P Coin Of The Realm.

I did shoot 357-length brass recreationally, though. I started worrying about bullet release with fouled chambers, and this became more critical when the shop authorized the 357 Magnum caliber for carry. I spent parts of a couple days off running Chore Boy copper fibers on a played out 38 bore brush with alternating Hoppe's and old-line GI CLP. The brush was spun slowly in a hand-held drill motor. From that day forward--no more short cases in long chambers.

About that CLP.......it was contained in a shortened plastic jug and meant to clean One (1) each, 105mm cannon barrel. Good stuff, and it lasted about 12 years. It was a cloudy-looking light brown color, and had a bit of phase-separation to it. What passes for "CLP" these days is very different in all respects.
 
P

popper

Well-Known Member
Anybody remember using Coke to loosen up exhaust cross-over valve? Worked good then. Carbon Tet will clean up the fuel system, degum carbs great. Never did see that FI cleaner do any good. Teck loved to run that stuff, labor 80$/pop.
 
RicinYakima

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I have read in several places the K5 kerosene is an excellent soaking medium. Another is Marvel's Mystery Oil (kerosene, MEK and oil) but have not use any in years. Since I bought one of the little ultrasonic cleaners, that is all I use now. Takes awhile, but does a good job with just dish soap.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
That is in fact GM top engine cleaner. The primary usage was filling up cylinders for an overnight soak to de-carbon and de-gum stuck piston rings. It is not aerosol, just a can of liquid. Soak your revolver cylinder in it overnight and brush the carbon out.
 
L Ross

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever wonder why we get all wrapped around the axle trying to remove "rings" from 38's in a .357 but don't seem to worry about a ring forming in the throat from firing 38's in a 38, or .357's in a .357?
 
Cherokee

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
No 38's in 357 cylinders, and when I clean a 38 or 357 cylinder, I make sure any accumulation is gone.
 
JWFilips

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
I know everyone will think I'm crazy but Give Gunzilla a try! Gets underneath everything I have thrown at it! I ended up ordering bottles ( i'm the only computer literate guy in my shooting group for every one!)
I do not like gimmicks This stuff is for Real!
 
RicinYakima

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
L Ross, If you shoot a hot 357 in a cylinder that has been shot with a lot of 38's, the neck expands and you have to drive the case out with a punch.
 
358156 hp

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
If we take most of these posts and add them together (and divide by pi), we end up with Eds Red.

I use it for everything, it's not always the fastest solution (NPI), but it does eventually work, it has always been a really good carbon solvent for me, but sometimes it takes a little longer on the really stubborn stuff. I remember when it was commonly suggested to use a stainless chamber brush. I haven't done that since Jimmy Carter.
 
Tomme boy

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
The new GM top engine cleaner is not the same as what everyone used to use. They have a new part number if I remember right. The old stuff was like magic. The new stuff works but nowhere near as good as the old stuff. I used up my last can about a year ago. @Ian might know for sure.

Most fuel injector cleaners do not work like they used to. They took out a chemical and now they take much longer to work. You should see a O2 sensor after they have been run. Usually have a red stain all over them. Usually messes up the O2 sensor also.
 
JonB

JonB

Halcyon member
358156 hp said:
If we take most of these posts and add them together (and divide by pi), we end up with Eds Red.

I use it for everything, it's not always the fastest solution (NPI), but it does eventually work, it has always been a really good carbon solvent for me, but sometimes it takes a little longer on the really stubborn stuff. I remember when it was commonly suggested to use a stainless chamber brush. I haven't done that since Jimmy Carter.
Click to expand...
This is what I was gonna say...Now I don't need to say it ;)
 
Matt

Matt

Active Member
Another option is a .410 shotgun bore brush with a chamber brush handle. A few twists and the .38 ring is gone. I’ve also seen the .410 brush chucked in a drill or drill press. Even quicker. Just be sure you use a brush with bronze bristles, no stainless. Do this dry to keep junk out of the ejector rid assembly in a double action revolver and the center pin hole in a single action. Dry patch the chambers and you are done. The .410 brush lasts for a long time.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Tomme boy said:
The new GM top engine cleaner is not the same as what everyone used to use. They have a new part number if I remember right. The old stuff was like magic. The new stuff works but nowhere near as good as the old stuff. I used up my last can about a year ago. @Ian might know for sure.

Most fuel injector cleaners do not work like they used to. They took out a chemical and now they take much longer to work. You should see a O2 sensor after they have been run. Usually have a red stain all over them. Usually messes up the O2 sensor also.
Click to expand...

Figures. The EPA has ruined everything that was good.
 
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