Sprue opening jig prototype

GRMPS

Active Member
Sprue opening jig prototype all wood easy to make, can't mar the mold
I cut a groove in the base to
adjust the base length for your mold size.
next modification will be a piece of slotted angle iron attached to the bottom of the wood base so I can easily adjust depth according to mold size

For my NOE Molds













Easy modification for RCBS molds









Modification for Lee 2 cavity molds, add a 1/2" piece of wood and cut a notch out where the sprue plate stop is.










seems I never get past the prototype stage :(, the prototypes work so why make another one?:)
 
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Ian

Well-Known Member
Interesting. Looks like you've gotten a lot of use out of it, but I have to ask, why not just preheat the moulds to get started and then cut the sprue while it's still soft? Cutting most alloy sprues takes nothing more than a gloved thumb and wrist rotation if the timing is right. Pure lead and true eutectic alloys can be a little more work.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
Some of us are a little older and make noise when we stand up :(

some motions just aren't as easy as they used to be.

I do use a hotplate set to 375 with a 3/8" piece of steel on it to help create an even heat.
 
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Ian

Well-Known Member
I'm only middle-aged, but have been taking steps for years to minimize stress to the already over-used body, so can appreciate the setup. Forcing myself to get comfortable sitting in a chair to cast bullets and and do all the reloading processes was a first big step in that direction; then I began shifting more and more to progressive or semi-progressive operations that minimize repetitive, fine motor movement.
 

CZ93X62

Redlands, Kalifornistan
It's nice when the sprue plate will turn with a gloved hand, and most of the time that is how things roll for me. I have a rawhide mallet ready at hand for times that doesn't hold true, just the same. This is a pretty cool adaptation for such times, far less crude than whacking the sprue plate like a demented blacksmith.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
A gentleman had a stroke & wants to continue casting, a solution. Simpler as below, couple 1/2" bolts. If the bolts exert pressue on the handle and tab, won't hurt the mould. Adjust spacing as needed. Could be done vert as well like gmps. Often my sprue doesn't drop right out.
 

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Missionary

Active Member
Now I like that two bolt idea popper ! Simple and easy to put together. May have to whip one up for the single cavity molds I use down here.
 

Cherokee

Well-Known Member
Neat Idea. Innovation. I don't like wacking either which is one thing I rally like about the Lee 6Cmolds lever sprue plate.
Grmps - the sprue plate on my NOE mold is mounted opposite of yours.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
A gentleman had a stroke & wants to continue casting, a solution. Simpler as below, couple 1/2" bolts. If the bolts exert pressue on the handle and tab, won't hurt the mould. Adjust spacing as needed. Could be done vert as well like gmps. Often my sprue doesn't drop right out.
My design started like yours I wanted to get away from metal. and modified it to work with NOE, RCBS, Lyman, and Lee.

I use I light leather mallet to tap the handles if the sprue or bullets don't drop out.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Got some 2"x 3/8" steel channel I can get a bolt head under, 1" threaded couplers in the garage. Long piece should fit under the Lee melter base. Cut, drill 2 holes, assemble and polish. May have to check the Lee handles to make sure enough handle area contacts the mould slot so it doesn't deform the mould.
Cast, drop off the stand to this rig, cut the sprue, use gloved hand (glove gets hot when I'm in the rhythm) to open.
 
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