Staking a Gas Key on a BCG
- Thread starter Gary
- Start date
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I bought the tool, it wasn't terribly expensive. A friend of mine uses a rather large steel punch that he sharpened to a point. He also uses a 3 lb hammer. You really want to displace some metal here. I have also seen large smooth jawed locking pliers used for this.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
A specialized tool might be nice but I can't imagine that it's absolutely necessary for that task. You just need to displace some metal in order to prevent the screws from backing out.
If I was staking a lot of those screws, I would purchase a dedicated tool. But to stake two screws? I don't think I could spend $80 for a tool that I was only going to use once.
If I was staking a lot of those screws, I would purchase a dedicated tool. But to stake two screws? I don't think I could spend $80 for a tool that I was only going to use once.
Ian
Notorious member
High-strength threadlocker is plenty for the gas key, and the castle nut just needs snugged with a wrench. My .458 Socom with plastic lower hasn't loosened the nut yet and it kicks like a mule. The staking is for rifles having a third position of the fire selector which will be going to war.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
In any event, as long as the screws stay put, all is well.
Tomme boy
Well-Known Member
I have some locktite that is not made anymore. It was used to hold a aluminum kiln together at ALCOA. Once put on, it will have to be heated till the parts are glowing white to get them apart. The label is long gone but I don't like to use it if I ever want to take anything apart. The red and blue loosen with just a little heat. Try to find 680 its the one they use on barrel extensions that foams up and expands. Supposed to handle high heat.
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Mitty38
Well-Known Member
I recommend 680 AS AN OPTION also,
On my first upper build....
Had some left over in my gun box. Wiped a small amount on mating surface. Then assembled. Just be careful not overuse or to put it right up against the port hole, as it does seek air, and expand as it sets.
I used an off brand gas key no lock tight on the threads, and did not have an inch pound torque wrench, just went by feel (ye I know,
), but still no leaks to this day.
On my first upper build....
Had some left over in my gun box. Wiped a small amount on mating surface. Then assembled. Just be careful not overuse or to put it right up against the port hole, as it does seek air, and expand as it sets.
I used an off brand gas key no lock tight on the threads, and did not have an inch pound torque wrench, just went by feel (ye I know,
), but still no leaks to this day.
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I'm new here. Just found this forum last night and love it.
I'm a law enforcement AR15/M4/M16 armorer and can pass on what I was taught.
The commercial tools to stake the gas key socket head cap screws work very well and do a nice clean job, but they aren't necessary past any cosmetic concerns.
The military simply uses a small chisel, and the staking achieved with that is just as effective as any commercial tool out there. It just comes down to looks.
Concerning threadlocker for the gas key, I guess it's fine for a range gun, but I'd never trust it on a working gun. If you're going to rely on your AR for duty or defense, I'd definitely stake the gas key screws.
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
A friend of mine builds custom high-end AR15s for competition shooters. He has a bench block fit to AR bolts, and he simply uses a hardened steel bunch he made himself to his own specs, and a heavy hammer. There is no doubt his gas keys aren't coming loose. I have a Brownells jig, but am really wanting a MOACKS. It's difficult to justify the expense for the little volume I deal with. I also really like Neds gas key screws.
Ian
Notorious member
@Hawgleg44 , welcome to the board!