I didn't know where to put this thread. The slug isn't cast it's swaged, but I cast .610 lead rounds balls for the cores. The weigh pretty close to a full 7/8 ounce. So in a sense they are cast sorta! I copied the hollow base of a Winchester Foster type slug and lathe punches for that and also the round nose. At first I was using an old bullet swage meant for pistol/revolver bullets, but the big 20 ga was a little too much for it and hard on it. I had made a die for that swage. Actually I've made many dies for it and it's been a very useful enjoyable tool.
I knew nothing about loading slugs for shotguns. Lamar has been a tremendous help with lots of resources. This part is for Ian. Ian you should get into this because in a sense it's a lot like loading cast rifle bullets. That is we know how neck tension is important. Well on slugs the wad pressure is important. Reading some manuals they said no pressure on the wads. Let me tell I'm using fiber wads not plastic as the slugs are full groove size of .625. Lamar said no no no, you have to put wad pressure on them. After I did that the group size shrunk and was more consistent. Any ANY little thing you change Ian, it throws the groups. I first was using BlueDot powder, but it was melting the hulls mouths to the degree I couldn't reload them again. So I switched to good ole Hercon. My slugs chrono at almost 1400 fps. I went through some nose changes, as the first slug was a semi-wadcutter, to the roundnose I'm currently using. Ian I thought I would try 3 inch shells to get the slug closer to cone. It showed no improved accuracy as the 2 3/4 shell shot better. The reason for the change from the semi-cutter to the roundnose was that I though it would more center the slug starting into the bore and it immensely increased the accuracy right off the bat.
Like mentioned Herco is the powder, 22 grains (safe in my shotgun) in Cheddite new hulls, BPI plastic over the powder seals (two types), BPI waxed 3/8 and 1/2 inch fiber wads, and card wad plus nitro card wad. Okay loading sequence is in goes the powder, then a plastic seal then a .125 nitro card wad (I quit using the plain just card wad and I'll explain later) then 2 of the 3/8 waxed fiber wads, followed by another .125 nitro card wad. I quit using the plain card wad under the slug because it was pushing inside the hollow base. First before changing out that card wad to the thicker nitro card wad I filled the hollow base with wax and my groups shrank. Then I bought the thicker hard nitro card wads, but continue the wax filled bases as the wads press hard against the base. The shotgun is a Browning BPS 20 gauge with a Browning rifled barrel with an integrel cantilever scope mount, with 1 in 24 twist. I use a BPI roll crimp tool in my drill press. The load above is for the 2 3/4 hulls. Best five shot group at 100 yards so far is 2 inches. I'm not getting any leading and with the swaging lube already on the slug I add a little of bullet lube. I've switched to a hammer swage at the advice of 45 2.1 and I made one from the snout (pulley end) of an old farm tractor crankshaft. Much faster and easier then the handgun swage and more durable. Seven hammer pounds with a brass hammer and I have a finished slug.
Some pictures of the slugs.
I knew nothing about loading slugs for shotguns. Lamar has been a tremendous help with lots of resources. This part is for Ian. Ian you should get into this because in a sense it's a lot like loading cast rifle bullets. That is we know how neck tension is important. Well on slugs the wad pressure is important. Reading some manuals they said no pressure on the wads. Let me tell I'm using fiber wads not plastic as the slugs are full groove size of .625. Lamar said no no no, you have to put wad pressure on them. After I did that the group size shrunk and was more consistent. Any ANY little thing you change Ian, it throws the groups. I first was using BlueDot powder, but it was melting the hulls mouths to the degree I couldn't reload them again. So I switched to good ole Hercon. My slugs chrono at almost 1400 fps. I went through some nose changes, as the first slug was a semi-wadcutter, to the roundnose I'm currently using. Ian I thought I would try 3 inch shells to get the slug closer to cone. It showed no improved accuracy as the 2 3/4 shell shot better. The reason for the change from the semi-cutter to the roundnose was that I though it would more center the slug starting into the bore and it immensely increased the accuracy right off the bat.
Like mentioned Herco is the powder, 22 grains (safe in my shotgun) in Cheddite new hulls, BPI plastic over the powder seals (two types), BPI waxed 3/8 and 1/2 inch fiber wads, and card wad plus nitro card wad. Okay loading sequence is in goes the powder, then a plastic seal then a .125 nitro card wad (I quit using the plain just card wad and I'll explain later) then 2 of the 3/8 waxed fiber wads, followed by another .125 nitro card wad. I quit using the plain card wad under the slug because it was pushing inside the hollow base. First before changing out that card wad to the thicker nitro card wad I filled the hollow base with wax and my groups shrank. Then I bought the thicker hard nitro card wads, but continue the wax filled bases as the wads press hard against the base. The shotgun is a Browning BPS 20 gauge with a Browning rifled barrel with an integrel cantilever scope mount, with 1 in 24 twist. I use a BPI roll crimp tool in my drill press. The load above is for the 2 3/4 hulls. Best five shot group at 100 yards so far is 2 inches. I'm not getting any leading and with the swaging lube already on the slug I add a little of bullet lube. I've switched to a hammer swage at the advice of 45 2.1 and I made one from the snout (pulley end) of an old farm tractor crankshaft. Much faster and easier then the handgun swage and more durable. Seven hammer pounds with a brass hammer and I have a finished slug.
Some pictures of the slugs.