Tap and die holder

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Bill, don't mess with a taper to fit the tail stock. A simple shaft into the chuck is fine. There isn't any real lateral force at work here.
I had a weekend off, had the stuff on hand, and nothing much to do.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I was going to buy one of these and thread my pin to screw onto it. I'll use a 5/8 piece
of stock, thread the end female 3/8-16, then step it down to 1/2". Not sure if it is worth
it, just putting the guide pin in the chuck seems to be OK.

http://www.shars.com/mt3-3-8-16-drill-chuck-shank

I am wondering if my 1 1/2" diameter torque handle will be large enough diameter for
dies, torque wise. My friend has a 1 1/2" for taps and a separate handle set up for dies,
and IIRC, it is larger diameter. I imagine that dies produce more torque when threading,
need a larger diameter to hang onto.

I am thinking about going from steel handle to aluminum, too. Seems no need for the weight
and machining effort of steel for this. Not going to wear it out.

Did you use the knurling diameter scale? Looks like you got a nice knurling job on that handle.

Bill
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I think the 2" diameter is a good thing. Lots of surface to grab and no overlap of fingers because of small diameter. There is plenty of torque involved and I liked the feel of mine.
I am very glad I bought a chunk of ground and polished 1144. Saved me a bunch of time and effort to get a good finish and no taper on the part. Worth every penny and it wasn't many.
Al is lighter and easier to knurl. After handling a 12" chunk of 2 1/4" steel I can assure you that would make for a very heavy tool. Smokeywolf also mentioned rust which isn't an issue with Al.

The knurl was done on the diameter I got. After messing with it some and watching a video by Joe Pie I decided the diameter wasn't as critical as I thought. Go in hard was the answer. My first pass was set too shallow and it was horrible and didn't track for beans. I left the knurl on the stock when I turned off the lathe. Gave the knob another 3/I turn with a wrench and had at it again. Worked like a charm.

Here is the video.

 

Gary

SE Kansas
I think I've watched most of Joe's videos, and he is a fantastic teacher and super knowledgeable. No nonsense and to the point, great stuff.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Seems like a good explanation, but I have it figured out and get a good knurl every time
now. Didn't watch the whole thing, quit about 1/3 of the way through.

Bill
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I used a spreadsheet to work up a table of diameters which would knurl correctly for my
tool (tooth spacing is different) and it works great. Went from disaster to a perfect knurl
each time once Keith pointed this out to me and I did the calculations.

Bill
 

Ian

Notorious member
I watched that video a long time ago and my take from it is that the calculations can screw you because the circumference length changes as the knurl deepens, so if you start out light and exactly the right size you're fine, but as you deepen the knurl it starts pushing metal. Maybe the calcs from Keith's spreadsheet split the difference or something to make it come out right.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I made a small correction and so far, I can take one of my calculated sizes
and knurl it and have had perfect results. Previously I got messes some times,
good results some times - which meant that I lucked into a proper diameter.

Give me the accurate number of teeth per rev on your wheels and the diameter of
your wheels and I can calc a spreadsheet and send it to you pretty quickly.

Pick a couple diams and knurl them, see if it works for you like it did for me.

Bill
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
The original formula for figuring pre-knurl diameter includes a correction factor that compensates for the difference between the OD of your part and the pitch diameter of the knurl. Feeding it in deeper simply reduces the effective pitch diameter and may get closer to the proper diameter for perfect knurling. Here is a link to the MSCDirect catalog that explains the formula and lists the correction factor(s) for various knurling pitches:

https://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?contentPath=/sales-catalogs/big-book

You'll have to go to page 1442.

I'm sure there are lots of ways to get a good knurl, but I know this formula works every time for me. Also, look at the bottom of the page for knurl profile, the convex full form relief type wheels reduce the load on your spindle bearings and tools and more importantly greatly cut down on the "flakes" you get that clog up the teeth and spoil the knurl.