The S&W Centennial / Model 40 /Model 640

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
In 1950 S&W lengthened the I-frame, chambered it for the 38 Special and produced it as the J-frame “Chief’s Special”; they had an unqualified hit on their hands. About 7 years later S&W changed from model names to model numbers and the Chief’s Special became the Model 36. Prolific variations of that model were produced. When S&W introduced the first all stainless-steel revolver, it was the Chiefs Special that became the basis for the stainless-steel model 60.

S&W made lightweight versions of that little J-frame, they made nickel plated models, they made stainless-steel models, they made shrouded hammer models, they made square butt models and round butt models.

The slickest snubnose revolver of the J-frame clan (in my humble opinion) was the Centennial. This blued steel, internal hammer, 5 shot DAO snubnose 38 Special was the one I coveted. Introduced in 1952, the 100th year of Smith & Wesson’s existence and therefore named “Centennial”. The original models had a grip safety that could be used as intended or easily pinned down to delete that function. There was also a lightweight version of the same gun known as the Centennial Airweight. The Centennial and Centennial Airweight later became the model 40 and 42, respectively.

For reasons only known to Smith & Wesson, the models 40 & 42 were discontinued in 1974. Perhaps S&W believed the Bodyguard models (models 38 and 49) with their shrouded hammers, would fill the gap in the line? During that first 22-year run of the DAO models the finish options were blued carbon steel and nickel-plated carbon steel for the Centennial/Model 40 versions. The Airweight versions could be had blued and anodized, nickel and anodized and few two-tone models. Unfortunately, both the steel and Airweight models had enough carbon steel parts to be susceptible to rust; a common enemy of small combat handguns carried close to the body in all kinds of weather.

There must have been significant demand for the Centennial models because in 1989 S&W not only re-introduced the Centennial concept, BUT they produced it in STAINLESS STEEL as the model 640. This was much welcomed. S&W followed with the new Centennial Airweight equivalent model 442 in 1993. And then to really fan the flames of nostalgia – S&W introduced the 40-1 “Classic”, complete with the old grip safety. Some of those could be had with color case hardened frames or with nickel finish. In 2009 the Airweight version of the 42-1 was released. These re-releases of the 40-1 and 42-1 didn’t stay around but it sure was good to see them offered.

A friend has a pristine early model 40 that I had the privilege to shoot. I bonded with that gun instantly. It shot where I looked, and it did it every time effortlessly. I immediately offered obscene amounts of money for it. He would not sell it.

I have long sought a first-generation model 40. They seem to exist in only two conditions: Like new, collectors’ grade, with the accompanying tariff. Or thoroughly abused examples that are too light to be boat anchors and too expensive to be project guns. Prior to the introduction of the 640, my goal was to find a cheap but mechanically sound model 40 and pay to have some rough service finish such as NP3 or Black-T applied. When the 640 was introduced, I abandoned that expensive plan and found a stainless-steel model that needed nothing. All was right in the world.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Having own and shot, a lot, with the first model Centennial it was not that great. Trigger pulls were 8# plus and the little grips moved a lot. I put a set of Herrett's Gunfighter grips on mine. Sold it and got a Bodyguard that I could shot single action if I wished (kept the Gunfighter grips). It went down the road for a Model 12 two inch Airweight that I kept until I got a Colt Agent (that is still have 52 years later). FWIW
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
The downfall of the J-frame grips is the size of the grips. To make the gun concealable, the grips are small by necessity. A grip adaptor or some version of Boot Grips will make an improvement without making the overall gun larger. The size of the grips is a compromise between concealment and control while shooting. The Boot grip, originally by Craig Spiegel and copied by everyone, is the best compromise that preserves the small overall size of the gun.

As for the DA pull of the snubnose J-frames, it does require some dedication to master. I’ve always held that a smooth DA pull is more important than a lightweight DA pull. An 8-pound DA pull wouldn’t bother me at all if it was smooth, but that subjective.

What I can say is I will not tolerate a hammer spur on a snubnose revolver. I’m never going to shoot that thing in single action. So, I see an internal hammer or a bobbed hammer as a plus not a negative.

Most of the early model 40’s I’ve handled actually had better DA pulls than the later model 640/442 models. I don’t know if that’s because the actions were slick due to use or if the factory just did a better job of fitting the parts. It may be a little of both.
 
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Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Very first J- frame purchased, was a early 90's (IIRC) stainless Model 60 with 2 inch barrel. Trigger pull won't register on RCBS 8# gauge. Learned a lot from this purchase. Sights are a joke, it's heavy and a hammer has no business on a pocket pistol.

Next one up was a Model 642. Same lousy sights and heavy trigger but very pocketable due to lighter weight and being hammerless. This was 10 years ago when we both got are carry licenses. Was looking for another 642 and ran across a Talo Edition. Exactly, the same but with a significantly better trigger, so it came home with me.

Still wasn't satisfied with S&W J-frames. However, the market didn't offer many choices in that niche. That's when I looked into the Ruger LCR. Already, had three 38 Special J-frames, so choosing a 357 was a no brainer. Out of the box trigger is a vast improvement over the Talo Edition 642. Sights are very visible, compared to S&W's. Finally, found everything I was looking for..... a pocketable major caliber, lightweight, hammerless, good trigger and adequate sights.

confused-face-smiley-emoticon.gifNow, if Ruger would just chamber them in 44 Special...........to compete with the Bulldog.
 
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oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
My J is a 30-1 32 Long. Six shot 3" bbl round grip (think they are all RGs). I love that thing. Most snubbies I am not a fan of. Just a special tool. I do have a cheap Taurus alloy 38 - specifically as a kayak snake gun. But the 32 is a lot of fun in the J
 

david s

Well-Known Member
I keep a pair of 642's; one gets shot as a practice gun and the one that hits to the sights gets carried. Grip wise it's a tradeoff. Small and concealable or full size and get a holster also. For myself grips that are a bit fuller/wider help here. The sights are rudimentary, and triggers are never going to be the same as an N frame. It's simple geometry with J frames little parts equal little leverage. But as a pocket piece they will work.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Back in the early 90's I had this great idea that I would practice with the steel framed 640 and carry the Airweight 442. That didn't play out and I ended up training with and carrying the Airweight.

Along the line I sold off the 640 and later regretted that move. In 1996 S&W discontinued the 640 and replaced it with the 640-1 “Magnum Centennial”. The 640-1 has a longer cylinder and longer barrel than the 640. The 640-1 is chambered for the 357 mag and isn’t quite as svelte as the 640. I wanted another 640 and it took me some time to find one. Lesson there – don’t let good guns get away from you.

As stated in a prior post, the trigger on a J-frame will never be the same as one on a K/L/N frame, there’s just not as much room for leverage. However, the J-frame action can be cleaned up nicely. My examples have wonderful DA pulls.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
I am not real fond of J-frame S&Ws, but I have owned some. Germane to this thread is my 4-year-old S&W Model 642 stainless. The DAO trigger has no place at a PPC shoot, but the little noisemaker will reliably place 5 38 Special bullets where I direct them to 15 yards or so. Pachmayr Compac grips are an enormous upgrade. It might get carried a bit more if I could ever find any +P 158 grain LSWCHP loads. The 125 grain JHPs don't inspire confidence. The Glock 43 gets the call in summer.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I am not real fond of J-frame S&Ws, but I have owned some. Germane to this thread is my 4-year-old S&W Model 642 stainless. The DAO trigger has no place at a PPC shoot, but the little noisemaker will reliably place 5 38 Special bullets where I direct them to 15 yards or so. Pachmayr Compac grips are an enormous upgrade. It might get carried a bit more if I could ever find any +P 158 grain LSWCHP loads. The 125 grain JHPs don't inspire confidence. The Glock 43 gets the call in summer.
/\ I understand and can offer no counter to the argument. /\

Having read Ed Lovette’s book “The Snubby Revolver” I am an unrepentant fan of the DAO snubnose revolver.

As a primary weapon, it has a lot of room for improvement. As a last ditch CQC tool, they are hard to beat. The strength of those little DAO, snubnose J-frames is mostly confined to their reliability and small size.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
No argument there, Jon--I just think a D-frame DetSpec or K-frame M-10 or M-12 x 2" are a lot better and not a lot bigger.

The Model 19/66 x 2.5" and Model 13 x 3" are actually capable of being managed by most users loaded with 357 Magnum ammo, too.
 
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L Ross

Well-Known Member
Doggonit though. I had a M-19 2.5" and it is a crap ton heavier than the 642. It got left home all the time. It is the ago old battle of portability, concealability, and comfortable enough to actually carry it. I know, I know, it is supposed to comfort not be comfortable, ya, ya, ya. I'm a flawed human with good intentions, but pretty soon a heavy awkward gun gets left in a drawer and you don't have anything.
Two guns I have found that work, (for me), a Glock Model 36, and a S&W 642, both in IWB holsters. Those are for goin' to town. Back at home, if I carry it can be a belt gun and I don't care who sees it. Matter of fact, people blabbing about seeing me carrying out on our property are probably good rumors to have floating about.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
There is no doubt that a 2” or 2.5” K-frame is far easier to shoot than a J-frame. There’s just more gun to hang onto.

The line for me is pocket gun verses holster gun. The Colt Detective Special (or Cobra/Agent) is about the maximum I can get away with for pocket carry. I agree the Detective Special is a great snubnose revolver, but I was never able to mesh with the DA pull of the Colt. No criticism of the Colt there, that’s totally on me.

I guess I should have stated the criteria of pocket carry. For me the pocket carry class consists of S&W DAO J-frames, Colt Detective Special (with a bobbed hammer) and the Ruger LCR. The Ruger SP101 with a bobbed hammer is maybe a contender in that class as well. Beyond those, we get into the snubnose revolvers that are holster guns: 2” K-frames with fixed sights, 2.5” K-frames with adjustable sights, The 2.25” barrel SP101 and others. They still fit my definition of a snubnose revolver, but they are holster guns.

DSCN0489.JPG

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Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Yeah, S&W cheaped out on the finish of those Airweights but the underlying alloy will not rust. So, it's just cosmetic wear.

My 442 had the electroless nickel finish that has held up a little better, but S&W discontinued that finish in the mid 1990’s and went to that grey coating.

And I use that same Mika holster and Speed-Strip!
 
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Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
No argument there, Jon--I just think a D-frame DetSpec or K-frame M-10 or M-12 x 2" are a lot better and not a lot bigger.

The Model 19/66 x 2.5" and Model 13 x 3" are actually capable of being managed by most users loaded with 357 Magnum ammo, too.
I often use the word "argument" in the legal sense of putting forth one's position and not as a indicator of disagreement.
No worries.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
In the winter time for a jacket pocket it is still the Colt Agent:
Colt Agent.jpg

But the rest of the year with long pants on for a front pocket it is the 32 H&R.
S&W 331.JPG
For shorts in the summer (or back up) it is the .32 ACP.
kel-tec 32.JPG
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Ric, now that's some honest wear on those carry pieces. Not sitting idling around.
I've carried a gun every day since I got out of the Army, 54 years. The Colt spent 15 years in firefighting gear, that eats anodizing (except the hammer shroud, for some reason). The S&W has been in and out of the Hume pocket holster thousands of time for practice, cleaning, etc.. The Kel-Tec has a nylon holster that has a smooth fabric on the inside.
 

Outpost75

Active Member
My J is a 30-1 32 Long. Six shot 3" bbl round grip (think they are all RGs). I love that thing. Most snubbies I am not a fan of. Just a special tool.....
The small J-frame round butt grip works fine with the .32, whereas in .38 Special you really need a Tyler T-grip to take the sting out of it.

In the Model 30 in.32 S&W Long you can load 3 grains of Bullseye with a 100-grain Hornady XTP for 850 fps from a 2-inch snubby with expansion to .38 cal. penetrating four gallon water jugs. Or 900 fps from a 3-inch with expansion to .40 cal. In a .32 ACP 3 grains of AutoComp does the same.
 

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Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
My carry gun is a mod 60. Belonged to an Albany PD detective. Sold it to a LGS when he retired.

I agree about the grip size. Rubber grips suck under clothing. So I made a set. Enough to fill my hand and shiny smooth to prevent snagging clothes.

Here's pics of the grips. I think the wood was some old plaque from work.

20230805_115806a.jpg20230805_115846a.jpg
 
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