Tip of the day

RBHarter

West Central AR
Probably not a tip but a convenient use of the pill bottles that pile up .
The standard small vials hold 28 6.5-140 to 150, and 26 27 cal 150+ 30 under .

Handy for lubed bullets .
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I store my lubesizer dies and top punches in pill bottles, standing up in a drawer in my reloading bench. Mark the lid with a sharpie, as to identify size.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I like my method much better. Don't have them put on in the first place. Simply tell the dealer he has two choices, sign a contract that says he will pay me $25 a month for as long as I own it and am advertising for him. Or don't buy it. Simple and there will be no free advertising for the dealer.
Brilliant idea right there. Of course, we never buy new cars, so...
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
You know how some of the black plastic bits on our cars and boats tend to age poorly in the sun. On my Miata there are the plugs that fit into the black plastic cowling beneath the wipers. Mine were all a nice battleship grey. Then there are the interior pieces like the ashtray top, the red seat belt buttons and the cover for the parking brake that also are victims of the sun. I have a solution.

This started out when the rocker buttons that control lights and pumps on my boat started to go from matte black to various shades of marbleized browns and tans. I'm a bit anal about details like that an this year I could not take it any longer. The boat is a '93 so only 2 years newer than my '91 Miata.

I went on the web searching for products that might help with this. I knew I could just repaint them flat black, but that would require lots of masking or removing all the switches and there are about 12 of them. I wanted something relatively easy to apply. One of the first things that popped up on web was olive oil. I'm not talking about Popeye's girlfriend. I'm talking about that golden oil that makes Italian, Spanish and French food better.

The article said to simply soak a small piece of cloth with olive oil and coat the faded plastic and then buff dry. So that's what I did. The results were amazing. I wish I had taken before and after photos of the switches. Suffice to say, they are all matte black again. One was mostly tan and I never thought it would come back. IT DID!

So, the next obvious move was to try it on the Miata. The gray plugs in the windshield cowl had been like that for years. I'd gotten used to seeing them, but they still bugged me. I hit one with the oily paper towel and left a black spot in the middle. It was like I was rubbing black paint on them. This time I took before and after pictures.

The process is simple. Put some oil on a small cloth or paper towel and coat the surface. It does not hurt to rub it in with some pressure. Then wipe the area clean with a clean dry towel or paper towel. You want to remove the grease, especially on the seat belt buckles. You can repeat the process if you like. Can't hurt. The article said that the fading is caused by the oils in the plastic evaporating away. Who knew? The olive oil replenishes those oils.
Huh! Worth a try. I wonder if it works on faded chainsaw plastics. Currently those restoring them go through a detailed polishing process with ever finer abrasive compounds under a Blue Moon while a chorus of virgins sing logging songs into the misty night skies in hopes of appeasing the gods of Chainsaw Restoration! I'll have to give it a try. Do I need to use Extra Virgin Olive Oil or can I just use Cheap Slut Olive Oil? ;)
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I like my method much better. Don't have them put on in the first place. Simply tell the dealer he has two choices, sign a contract that says he will pay me $25 a month for as long as I own it and am advertising for him. Or don't buy it. Simple and there will be no free advertising for the dealer.

I may be a bit TOO cranky for some, but I'm the same way with logo'd clothing - especially if I had to PAY for the clothing. Tee-shirts, ball caps, jackets, etc.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I may be a bit TOO cranky for some, but I'm the same way with logo'd clothing - especially if I had to PAY for the clothing. Tee-shirts, ball caps, jackets, etc.
One of my favorite things to buy at garage sales are Company Tee shirts/polo shirts with company logo. As a retired fellow, it always seems to spark a conversation with a acquaintance or stranger about where I've worked.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
To each their own as the saying goes, anyone wants me to advertise for them they will pay me for it. I do not expect anyone to work for me for free and I don't work for anyone else for free. Simple concept.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Considering the shape most of what I drive is in, I could probably make a fair wage by promising NOT to put a dealers name on any of the crap I drive!!!!!
 

shuz

Active Member
I have found that Swiffer inserts that fit their cleaning tool, work as an excellent remover of any corn cob or walnut dust that may remain on cases after tumbling. I simply put one of those strips in an empty plastic jar with a lid, add the brass and tumble by hand for about a minute. Sure beats wiping each one off by hand with a rag!
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Free advertise? Just drive the hiway/freeway and note the broken ones on the road. Buy the brand with the lowest. Hint? Won't be Chrysler, VW or GM. Fords do tend to lose front suspension.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I have found that Swiffer inserts that fit their cleaning tool, work as an excellent remover of any corn cob or walnut dust that may remain on cases after tumbling. I simply put one of those strips in an empty plastic jar with a lid, add the brass and tumble by hand for about a minute. Sure beats wiping each one off by hand with a rag!
That's interesting...

I wonder if part of a Swiffer sheet in the tumbler would mitigate the dust as well as, or maybe better than expended dryer sheets?
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
I have found that Swiffer inserts that fit their cleaning tool, work as an excellent remover of any corn cob or walnut dust that may remain on cases after tumbling. I simply put one of those strips in an empty plastic jar with a lid, add the brass and tumble by hand for about a minute. Sure beats wiping each one off by hand with a rag!
I find the dust issue interesting. In all my years of using walnut media, I've never encountered dust of any kind. My guess is your tumbler is creating a static charge and that is causing the cases to be charged and collect the dust or the dust is charged and it clings to the cases. You might try grounding your tumbler to see if that helps. I had to admit that I do see a static charge on the plastic bowl of my Dillon tumbler. The media does adhere slightly to the walls of the bowl when I dump the cleaned cases and media into my separator bucket. I shake/tumble the cases by hand almost like tossing cooked pasta in sauce in that separator to get all the media out of the cases. Not a hint of dust when done.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Using corncob or walnut media, just add some strips of used dryer sheets, before adding the brass. Cuts down on dust, immensely. Discard after each use. I don't fret the dust anyways. Won't hurt the dies and just handling the cases gets most residue, anyways.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
For some reason, mould halves do not want to stay together when they are stored without handles attached. So, I made a bunch of these small clamps to keep the halves together when being stored. You can stack them up and not worry about them coming apart and maybe damaging the mould in the process.

I make these from 1/16" sheet aluminum. But you can make them from sheet steel as well. You over bend them a bit to take advantage of the springiness in the metal. I bend little ears on them to engage the handle screws. You simply slip it into the handle grooves and then insert the screws. They work great and you can make them in a few minutes. I always thought that the mould companies should include something like this with every set of mould blocks. They could make them from plastic for pennies.

Mould Storage Clamp.jpg
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Using corncob or walnut media, just add some strips of used dryer sheets, before adding the brass. Cuts down on dust, immensely. Discard after each use. I don't fret the dust anyways. Won't hurt the dies and just handling the cases gets most residue, anyways.

That's what I use now. Tried it on a whim after reading about it somewhere and voila! - no dust when I empty the bowl into the giant strainer. I don't think I really had a problem with dust, but what the heck - it's free and takes no effort.

@Snakeoil , thank you for the reminder that I should include a disclaimer* from time to time. The dust has never been a problem with any reloading equipment for me. Occasionally, dust (in general) will cause my sinuses great grief and I'll have a whole day in which my nose runs constantly, my eyeballs itch and I sneeze my brains out. Next day - nothin'. Incredibly annoying to have "one of those days" when you have stuff to do, so any time I have a chance to mitigate dust, I mitigate dust - with a vengeance. I see it as my evil nemesis, which lurks and waits and nails me when I'm not thinking about it, so whether it does any good or not, any time I have a chance to pay dust back, I pay dust back. The dust you DON'T see is the dust which is most problematic anyway.

The used dryer sheets are cheap - basically free, so no harm tossing a couple strips in the bowl.

Regarding any level of "brass prep," I'm sure I do a number of unnecessary things, but it's part of my confidence voodoo. Even on new pistol brass, I deburr flash holes and trim to consistent lengths. On fired pistol brass for carbines, I steel-wool the outside of necks and brush the insides each loading. Cheap, easy entertainment which doesn't seem to hurt anything.

*DISCLAIMER, or the moral of THAT story is - don't necessarily take what I do as something useful or helpful until or unless you've vetted it for yourself. It may just be busy-work or just something I do just to do it. Sometimes.;)
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
For some reason, mould halves do not want to stay together when they are stored without handles attached. So, I made a bunch of these small clamps to keep the halves together when being stored....

THAT is a cool idea!

I have been using 3/8" wide strips cut from a 26" bicycle inner tube - one on a pair of loose blocks or one on the ends of the handles if the handles are attached. They've worked fine, but don't forget to take them off before getting the mould hot, and don't try to put them on until they're cooled back off.

I don't think your "spring clips" would melt and stink up the place.:)

EDIT: Excellent drawing there, too!