BING, BING, BING, BING!!! We have a WINNER!
Not sure what you've won, old boy, but that is GOLDEN!
I actually teach this in my classes before I let anyone touch a screwdriver, OR my components!
Tip of the day
- Thread starter Snakeoil
- Start date
BING, BING, BING, BING!!! We have a WINNER!
Not sure what you've won, old boy, but that is GOLDEN!
I actually teach this in my classes before I let anyone touch a screwdriver, OR my components!
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Plus always look at the threads of "older articles" as some of those fasteners are left tightning threads. To include, generally, 100 year old and older pocket watches from the other side of the Atlantic.
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I had a 1945 Willy's Jeep when I was a kid and one side of both axles had R/H threaded wheel studs and the other side had L/H threaded wheel studs.
Sprue plate screws on LEE moulds, depending on the "vintage," might be one way or the other.
462
California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
My '68 MG Midget had wire wheels. The large nut that held them on was of the new hex design, not the older winged knock-off style. In the trunk (boot) was a large spanner and lead hammer. The left side nuts were marked "UNDO" with arrows pointing counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise). The right side nuts were marked "UNDO" with arrows pointing clockwise.
A few months ago, I found out the nut that secures a toilet flush handle to the tank is lefthand threaded. I've changed them several times, but didn't recall them being so threaded.
A few months ago, I found out the nut that secures a toilet flush handle to the tank is lefthand threaded. I've changed them several times, but didn't recall them being so threaded.
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I believe all Chrysler products had both left and right hand bolts as long as they used bolts for the wheels. 1954 or so maybe. The theory was that if any were loose, driving forward would tighten the bolts. When they changed from lug bolts to lug nuts they were almost always right hand threaded.
Ian
Notorious member
1957 Chevy cab-forward 1.5 ton with duplex wheel stud/nuts used LH on the left for the inner and outer studs and nut. All of the heavy truck tractors and trailers I've seen are that way, too.
Ford had a few bouts of that idiocy in the 70s and recovered, mostly. GM light duty vehicles have always been all rh as far as I know.
Ford had a few bouts of that idiocy in the 70s and recovered, mostly. GM light duty vehicles have always been all rh as far as I know.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Went into the 60's on some Chrysler, IHC and, maybe, some other heavier trucks IIRC. Depends on who you talk to IME. I know finding those left hand nuts is lots easier for an old Jeep than an IHC.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I think I told the story before about trying to get the tire off the family Payloader (yes, some families have them!) back when I was about 15. This was used to plow snow at the folks bar/restaurant. I'd been at for a good long while when this old drunk stopped to watch me. Sez he, "Didja ever think that might be a left hand thread kid?", and then he staggered off into the sunset. He was a drunk, but he wasn't a stupid drunk!!!
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
If you have nameplates, badges or logos like car dealers like to stick on a new car using double-faced tape, pulling them off can be tough, especially if you want to reuse them. With today's water-based car paints, I would not be surprised if you could pull the paint off if you tried to pull the badge off.
A trick to get them off is to use a piece of nylon fishing line to slice thru the double-face tape like a wire-type cheese slicer cuts thru cheese. You won't risk damaging the paint with the nylon line. Then you get the rest of the tape off with min spirits or Goo-Gone.
A trick to get them off is to use a piece of nylon fishing line to slice thru the double-face tape like a wire-type cheese slicer cuts thru cheese. You won't risk damaging the paint with the nylon line. Then you get the rest of the tape off with min spirits or Goo-Gone.
I like my method much better. Don't have them put on in the first place. Simply tell the dealer he has two choices, sign a contract that says he will pay me $25 a month for as long as I own it and am advertising for him. Or don't buy it. Simple and there will be no free advertising for the dealer.
Got the license plate frames here also but most dealers also glue on stickers with their name on it. A few even drill holes and rivet it on. They do it because everyone that buys a vehicle from them drives around with a sign advertising the dealership. For free. Not me, not ever. Just one of my little pet peeves.
Dimner
Named Man
In the past when I bought new cars, I had them de-badge them. They always did it with no problems. Even the manufactures markings. I tell them, as a consolation, they can put one of those license plate frames around my plate with their business if they way. Then when I remember, I remove it later.
JonB
Halcyon member
LH threads:
I sure I've told this story to this group at sometime?
My first wood splitter that I acquired, was a homemade deal. I bought it around 2001. It looked like it was built by some redneck about 40 years earlier. It leaked every fluid, from every seal that was suppose to contain the fluid. It had a old 8 hp Briggsy from a snowblower, a cylinder with too long of a throw that a friend said it looked like it came off a road grader, and a hydraulic pump off a small tractor, and a hand valve probably from same tractor as it didn't look like anything you'd see on a woodsplitter.
ANYWAY, the axle was from...WHO KNOWS? The wheel on one side was only held on with three lug nuts because two of the studs were broken. I needed to remove the wheels, because the tires were bad. The property next door to me, use to be a auto repair shop. As I broke off one of the three remaining studs, I wandered next door to the shop, and asked for some advice...the one friendly mechanic laughed and said that old thing probably has a Mopar axle and that side had LH threads. SURE enough. Of all the cars I've owned, I never had one with LH threads...so that was a new one to me. Luckily, those broken studs were easy enough to replace, so I did.
I sure I've told this story to this group at sometime?
My first wood splitter that I acquired, was a homemade deal. I bought it around 2001. It looked like it was built by some redneck about 40 years earlier. It leaked every fluid, from every seal that was suppose to contain the fluid. It had a old 8 hp Briggsy from a snowblower, a cylinder with too long of a throw that a friend said it looked like it came off a road grader, and a hydraulic pump off a small tractor, and a hand valve probably from same tractor as it didn't look like anything you'd see on a woodsplitter.
ANYWAY, the axle was from...WHO KNOWS? The wheel on one side was only held on with three lug nuts because two of the studs were broken. I needed to remove the wheels, because the tires were bad. The property next door to me, use to be a auto repair shop. As I broke off one of the three remaining studs, I wandered next door to the shop, and asked for some advice...the one friendly mechanic laughed and said that old thing probably has a Mopar axle and that side had LH threads. SURE enough. Of all the cars I've owned, I never had one with LH threads...so that was a new one to me. Luckily, those broken studs were easy enough to replace, so I did.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
You know how some of the black plastic bits on our cars and boats tend to age poorly in the sun. On my Miata there are the plugs that fit into the black plastic cowling beneath the wipers. Mine were all a nice battleship grey. Then there are the interior pieces like the ashtray top, the red seat belt buttons and the cover for the parking brake that also are victims of the sun. I have a solution.
This started out when the rocker buttons that control lights and pumps on my boat started to go from matte black to various shades of marbleized browns and tans. I'm a bit anal about details like that an this year I could not take it any longer. The boat is a '93 so only 2 years newer than my '91 Miata.
I went on the web searching for products that might help with this. I knew I could just repaint them flat black, but that would require lots of masking or removing all the switches and there are about 12 of them. I wanted something relatively easy to apply. One of the first things that popped up on web was olive oil. I'm not talking about Popeye's girlfriend. I'm talking about that golden oil that makes Italian, Spanish and French food better.
The article said to simply soak a small piece of cloth with olive oil and coat the faded plastic and then buff dry. So that's what I did. The results were amazing. I wish I had taken before and after photos of the switches. Suffice to say, they are all matte black again. One was mostly tan and I never thought it would come back. IT DID!
So, the next obvious move was to try it on the Miata. The gray plugs in the windshield cowl had been like that for years. I'd gotten used to seeing them, but they still bugged me. I hit one with the oily paper towel and left a black spot in the middle. It was like I was rubbing black paint on them. This time I took before and after pictures.
The process is simple. Put some oil on a small cloth or paper towel and coat the surface. It does not hurt to rub it in with some pressure. Then wipe the area clean with a clean dry towel or paper towel. You want to remove the grease, especially on the seat belt buckles. You can repeat the process if you like. Can't hurt. The article said that the fading is caused by the oils in the plastic evaporating away. Who knew? The olive oil replenishes those oils.
This started out when the rocker buttons that control lights and pumps on my boat started to go from matte black to various shades of marbleized browns and tans. I'm a bit anal about details like that an this year I could not take it any longer. The boat is a '93 so only 2 years newer than my '91 Miata.
I went on the web searching for products that might help with this. I knew I could just repaint them flat black, but that would require lots of masking or removing all the switches and there are about 12 of them. I wanted something relatively easy to apply. One of the first things that popped up on web was olive oil. I'm not talking about Popeye's girlfriend. I'm talking about that golden oil that makes Italian, Spanish and French food better.
The article said to simply soak a small piece of cloth with olive oil and coat the faded plastic and then buff dry. So that's what I did. The results were amazing. I wish I had taken before and after photos of the switches. Suffice to say, they are all matte black again. One was mostly tan and I never thought it would come back. IT DID!
So, the next obvious move was to try it on the Miata. The gray plugs in the windshield cowl had been like that for years. I'd gotten used to seeing them, but they still bugged me. I hit one with the oily paper towel and left a black spot in the middle. It was like I was rubbing black paint on them. This time I took before and after pictures.
The process is simple. Put some oil on a small cloth or paper towel and coat the surface. It does not hurt to rub it in with some pressure. Then wipe the area clean with a clean dry towel or paper towel. You want to remove the grease, especially on the seat belt buckles. You can repeat the process if you like. Can't hurt. The article said that the fading is caused by the oils in the plastic evaporating away. Who knew? The olive oil replenishes those oils.