1894 44 mag test continues

[fiver]

I'm not seeing a whole lot wrong here.
you gotta remember this is a 44 mag lever gun.
2" groups at 50 yds is pretty acceptable.
2" groups at 100 yds is 5 boolits pretty much touching each other in an X shape.
that would be about a 1/2" group with a 223.

try laying the targets over the top of one another and do an aggregate.[center over center]
the diameter that works the least will stand out pretty quickly.
I'd go with the 432+ sizer and call it good.
no primer fuss [heck try some Winchesters] shoot it again tomorrow with mixed primers.

 

[Rick]

Go with a 2-4" shorter stool for your shooting bench.

John (Winelover) & me are pretty lucky with the bench we built. We bedded 18x18x2 inch cement pavers in compacted sand for the seating area, we can raise or lower the shooting height simply by adding or removing additional pavers. We can keep the comfy chairs we use and make the height to the bench just right for both of us. John is left handed and uses the right side of the bench and I use the left side, the height from the pavers to the bench is different for both of us.

.

 

[Brad]

I would love to use a shorter stool but these benches have a built in seat. I don't know who decided on the dimensions. I am 5-11 so the height issue isn't just me.
I suppose some people think you need to damn near lay on the bench to shoot good groups?

Rick and John have it good. They can bring a stool the right height.

 

[Brad]

John, got a picture of that bullet?

I am getting ready to cast up some 265 RD bullets from a borrowed Lee 2 cav mould. That bullet should shoot as well as anything.

 

[Rick]

Rick and John have it good. They can bring a stool the right height.

Well if ya read post #22 you'll see that we both use the same chairs and altered the floor height to adjust to the correct height of the bench for each of us.

.

 

[Brad]

I wish our benches don't have built in seats, the tops are way too low for the seats.


Here are the bullets. The left is the Lee 434640. Middle is the NOE HG503 clone, right is the Lee 265 RD.
The RD is enough shorter to make a difference. If anyone has done work with the Marlin rifles it is Michael.
I am waiting for Al to make the 240 RD. That, in a plain base, would be good in the 44 special and this rifle.

 

[fiver]

get Tom to make it with normal lube grooves.

I considering sending him some of the boolits I have, to make a regular lube groove mold that pours to 460 for the 45-70.
I want him to make the nose a half click smaller to fit the throat of my Browning 86 better too.
then I can get away from the T/L and the extra smoke I get.
but decided to just design a whole new one instead.

 

[Brad]

That bullet will get lubed in my Star. No TL for that one. It won't need but a couple grooves filled.

If it shoots well then I may well have Tom make me one. Traditional grooves sure make life easier when casting too. Too much mould heat and the micro grooves round over and they cast too small.

 

[Winelover]

Here is the bullet I use: The mold I have is a 3 Cavity and throws two PB and one GC.

$79.00
432-265-RF 2 cavity 1GC 1PB (RD)
[Z4]

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• 

 

[Brad]

Ok, pretty similar to the Lee I am using. Thanks.

 

[Winelover]

Yeah...but I doubt that the Lee will drop bullets at or above .432 diameter without lapping it out. Marlins needs fat bullets.

 

[Brad]

This one seems to drop at .433. My .432 sizer definitely catches the rear band completely and the other bands at least 75%. They made this one right? I do know Michael was pretty strict with Lee about specs for moulds he sold.

Have you ever tried a powder other than 2400? Maybe H110?

 

[Josh]

Here is the bullet I use: The mold I have is a 3 Cavity and throws two PB and one GC.

$79.00
432-265-RF 2 cavity 1GC 1PB (RD)
[Z4]

• 
• 

I wish Al would learn how to remove that dumb 0.030" drive band, he has it on many many designs and it is an absolute wart on other wise good designs...

 

[fiver]

he isn't the only one that uses it.
some of my Magma molds have it too, but it's mostly on the older black powder hold-over designs.
but he would be better off moving that front band to the rear band and strengthening that.

 

[Josh]

I have a 165 RD design that I can't get better than 50% culls because of that band. As soon as I see it that design is out.

 

[Winelover]

Have you ever tried a powder other than 2400? Maybe H110?

H-110 along with 296 both require maximum charges......Not versatile enough for my use.......so I don't keep it around. Dumped the original metal container of 296, right before I moved. That should tell you how much I like that powder. I still have a pound of H-110 around, that I probably never use. Alliant 2400, can be safely downloaded so that's what I keep around in 8 pounders. Can be used in all my revolvers and bolt guns.

 

[Brad]

I wish Al would learn how to remove that dumb 0.030" drive band, he has it on many many designs and it is an absolute wart on other wise good designs...

Are you speaking of that tiny band ahead of the check shank? I too dislike it. Like fiver said, make the rear band stronger. I would remove the rear groove. Make the rear band stronger and make the 2 remain grooves equal in width. Two grooves is plenty of lube and more bearing surface is a good thing.

 

[Brad]

H-110 along with 296 both require maximum charges......Not versatile enough for my use.......so I don't keep it around. Dumped the original metal container of 296, right before I moved. That should tell you how much I like that powder. I still have a pound of H-110 around, that I probably never use. Alliant 2400, can be safely downloaded so that's what I keep around in 8 pounders. Can be used in all my revolvers and bolt guns.

I keep H110 for max load revolver use and for stuff like this.
I agree that 2400 is a far more versatile powder. I use it more for cast loads in rifles than any other powder. 2400 is a powder I just won't be without.

 

[Josh]

Are you speaking of that tiny band ahead of the check shank? I too dislike it. Like fiver said, make the rear band stronger. I would remove the rear groove. Make the rear band stronger and make the 2 remain grooves equal in width. Two grooves is plenty of lube and more bearing surface is a good thing.

That's the band, I have cussed that little bugger enough that I don't use that mould anymore.

 

[Winelover]

Unique and 2400 covers all my handgun needs. I don't use 2400 in rifle ( I only load cast in 338W and 308W)...wont cycle the AR-10 and never found it very accurate in the 338W.....I rather keep it for my revolvers, anyways. I could get away with AA#7.....if I couldn't find Unique.