Great thread! I’m read through it twice now and still finding good tips for casting HP.
Tis a pity making HP bullets is such a ginormous pain in the behind. Single cavity is bad enough, dealing with that pin, and heat control is just too tedious for volume work.For target work I would always choose a HP version of a bullet Then it's solid counter part
The balance of the bullet is better thrown to the base the the mid point.
This is just my observation
I was in this camp BEFORE I got my hot plate!!Tis a pity making HP bullets is such a ginormous pain in the behind. Single cavity is bad enough, dealing with that pin, and heat control is just too tedious for volume work.
Not doubting your experience man. I read and know you know your stuff.Can't agree with that CW. Your right the key is heat BUT it's not the pot temp that's important it's the mold AND the spud temp that is critical. If your alloy is 700 degrees you are at least 300 degrees over liquidus temp of the alloy, if you can't keep the mold at casting temp with that 300 degrees there are other issues. Cranking up the pot temp much past 725-750 will only serve to burn the tin out of the alloy through oxidation far faster.
Again man, not doubting you!! Its all good and again I respect and appreciate what you and everyone brings yo the table. But, all must also realize theres may not the only way!It's not a matter of my experience, it is the metallurgy of Sn in Pb. The purpose of putting Sn in the melt is that Sn reduces the surface tension of the lead and allows it to much better fill out the details of the mold. The metallurgy is that Sn cannot do that above 750 degrees. Plus of course the faster oxidation. But hey, if your happy . . .
EXACTLY!Not arguing with you CW. Simply putting out the info for those that wish to learn, many people read the forum including folks new to casting.