Annealing Set-ups: immersing cases in solid media?

[S Mac]

National house arrest? Around here things are about normal.

 

[Jäger]

I propose the best way is to use a PID (800F) temp controlled 'pencil' soldering iron with proper stainless or ceramic 'expander' plug tip, inserted into the case mouth. 310 SS won't oxide fast, timing of annealing is the only variable. Only possible contact with case is the neck.

Now that sounds quite intriguing as a concept! Seems like it would be just as fast as any other non-automated annealing, whether a candle flame or an AMP without the case feeder.

Dipping into a hot pot of silica/sand/etc would work fine but depth control is a problem. Plus I don't want my hand held over a hot pot for any period of time. as others have stated, only loading and shooting will test the results.

Depth should be able to be controlled in various ways i.e. having a predetermined level of media within its container; insert to bottom, you have the same depth. Alternately, a metal screen at a predetermined level below the surface of the media; once again, insert cases to contact the screen and you have uniform depth of insertion.

The gloves thing doesn't bother to me; I've been wearing gloves around hot objects ranging from working the kilns as a casual laborer as a kid, to handling machine gun barrels soldiering - and at the same time still having the manual dexterity to manipulate stuff that's small like ammunition, pins, etc. You only put your bare hand or fingers on a machine gun barrel once; you'll never do that again! And most of us did it - once. You learn.

Annealing aside, anything involving casting operations always has me wearing gloves, whether or not my hands are going to go anywhere near the surface of my Lyman pot.

 

[Jäger]

It's January. I've been immersing myself in machining videos in my spare time.

I'm trying to remember the name of the genius Israeli engineer/machinist who immigrated to Canada (I think) quickly became wealthy on some of the processes he developed, and has a 16, 18 video (something like that) YouTube series on a long list of processes that are done to bring a product to existence The machines and modifications to machines that he has done to create his home machine shop would make your jaw drop as far as their capability, if not their ability to turn out product on an industrial scale.

And I just can't think of his name right now.

 

[Jäger]

National house arrest? Around here things are about normal.

Not here. How's the community turnout for the local high school sports events? No issues with you and the Residential Sergeant Major going to take in a band at a local bar or night spot?

Lucky you that's about normal where you are; those are just a couple of examples of what community life is like here, and it definitely isn't normal.

 

[STIHL]

A black sharpie will burn off right around the optimal annealing point. It has been proven beside tmpilaq. If you don't believe me try it. For annealing I've done it similar to Joshua, then I built an annealing machine with parts off amazon. It's ugly and bulky but it works. Think I had like 130-140 in it. I'll see if I can dig the link up tonight for the machine I used for reference.

 

[S Mac]

The local sports games are going on as normal, can't speak to the bar scene, don't do that anyway.

 

[L Ross]

Been gone over the weekend, finally celebrating a belated Christmas with family.

Trying to get caught up on the threads and I'll admit to rapid scanning. As I sped read one post and saw Annealeeze I screeched to a eye shuddering halt as I thought it was some kind of perverted personal lubricant. Thank God I slowed down and reread it. Whew!

 

[Ian]

Gee thanks. I can never un-read that now.

 

[fiver]

chuckle,, okay so from now on, no E and only one N...... gotchya.... LOL.

I don't think a direct comparison would prove anything about any system over another as long as each one done the job correctly.
annealed is annealed, and jacked up is jacked up.

I'd personally like to see a system with a spud and a temp probe[and changeable spuds]
push the handle down, watch the readout , lift the handle, remove, and insert the next case.

 

[Glaciers]

I'll repeat what I said earlier: I bet somebody said EXACTLY the same thing to whoever it was that first thought about trying to bake powder coating powder onto bullets instead of simply tumble lubing them. Or whatever.

And if I had too much money on my hands, I'd probably have an AMP induction annealer sitting in my reloading space right now.

But yeah... it is January, it was -20 outside this morning, so yeah, I have some extra time on my hands during this period of national house arrest along with the temperature.

You do have me on that point.

Yeah but powder coating provides a lubricant not provide by anything else. What you guys are doing is reinventing the wheel. Granted some need the higher potential production, but.... Really....

And I'm very happy that it's warmer here in the Interior of Alaska, by the way. But the bottom is slowly starting to fall away again.. Actually it's been a very mild winter so far, but, there's still lots of time to have some miserable temps. I hope a mild winter doesn't mean a crappie summer.

But, it is January. So go for it.

 

[Jäger]

It's January. I've been immersing myself in machining videos in my spare time.

I remembered the guy's name. Dan Gelbart. Amongst his other stuff he has an 18 part series on YouTube on machine shop operations to make prototypes. He's got a pretty cool little machine shop in his basement...

Gelbart's home made lathe/grinder accurate to 1 micron

Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 1 of 18 Introduction

How he went from immigrant with nothing but lint in his pockets, to recycling bits and pieces of scrap to build prototypes and eventually sell to Kodak for a billion is almost as interesting as the machining.

 

[popper]

Did find an import soldering iron rig (temp controlled) that goes to 950F, <100$. Uses a SS sleeve (over a ceramic heater) so a special sleeve with spud on end could be made. Tips on these are held by the sleeve so a threaded 'tip' and screw on spud? My little weller iron only goes to 650F but does have a neat 'spud' for leather/wood burning.
330 SS is non-magnetic so induction heating is out but it could be heated by induction (60Hz) on an iron core like the old induction copper pipe soldering tools. SS won't slag like iron or carbon steel at temps needed.