Cleaning after shooting PC coated bullets

GRMPS

Active Member
Ian, what PC are you referring to with the bake time starting after the substrate has reached 400°
------:headbang: I found it :)

It seems most people ARE NOT baking PC long enough!!!!

the following has been my experience (note the bake time is 20 min after, not 10 total)
I guess the bake time is relevant to how/when you start gauging it

https://www.powderbuythepound.com/super-durable-wet-black.html
  • Cure Schedule = 400f/10 Min at Part Metal Temperature
http://www.cardinalpaint.com/assets/Uploads/WH09-T013-TDS.pdf
Cardinal paint CURE SCHEDULE: (METAL TEMPERATURE) 10 MINUTES @ 400 DEGREES F.


https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-ford-light-blue.html
SPECIFICATIONS

Color: Ford Light Blue
Gloss Level: Gloss
Cure Temperature: 400 Degrees
Cure Time: 20 Minutes after flowout
Powder Type: Polyester TGIC
 

Missionary

Active Member
Good afternoon
I find this all interesting.
Did my first PC slugs last summer from 38 special to 270 gr GC .377 for the 375 HH and the 375-06. Used Smokes PC and as he wrote "set the oven for 410 (thermometer not dial) and put the tray in for 40 min. No issues I could see. Stuff was hard as metal.
They all shot as well or better (the HH) with my best previous loads with standard lubes using same powder load.
Ran a patch through the HH after 25 then 50 rounds and nothing came out.
So I decided to just shoot away until accuracy went bad... just like the old lubes. Never reached "bad" before we had to return.
Can you cook them to long ???
 

Ian

Well-Known Member
Overbaking can occur for certain, but in my very limited experience with only one chemical type I have gone 50 minutes past time and 20 degrees over temp with no issues whatsoever. So at least poly tgic rated for 400F, 10 minutes at part metal temperature can take time and temp required for a 75%max heat treat of ww alloy.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
My normal bake is 1 hr @ 400F then WD. No problem. HF or Smoke's. I accidentally got some too hot (base was starting to melt) and the cooled PC was splitting - it tends to shrink when over heated.
I seldom clean the bore, BLL or PC. I do shoot a jax bullet every once in a while for an accuracy comparison. I haven't found PC to remove slight leading but it doesn't appear to harm accuracy. I did shoot some undersized/lubed from the 40sw that leaded and a few PC coated took out a lot but not all of the lead. Yea, it was gross leading.
 
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JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Yes this post has been awhile running!
My findings: I do not have to clean! However I'm old schoole so I push a tight patch through the bore ( Dry) just to be sure I don't have lead flakes!
Seldom if ever do! After about 500 rounds I will push a "Gunzilla" wet patch through the bore and then after about 3 days a few dry patches and out it goes to the range again!
Jim
 

Ian

Well-Known Member
I just cleaned my LR-308 and it was exactky like cleaning after shooting jax.....except no copper fouling. First shot keeps going in the group so I'm going to start cleaning after shooting rather than leaving the rifle dirty for fear of throwing the next cold bore shot.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Ian,
I'm the same same here. I don't scrub anymore but I so like to push a wet patch ( I use Gunzilla) through the bore After it sets for a few hours 2 Dry patches through & they come out faint gray and I 'm ready to shoot again! I'm starting to like this