Cleaning fouling on some old war rifles

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I have a Krag, an '03 Springfield and a new to me '17 Enfield...and probably a # SMLE that I want to soak and defoul the barrels on. In the old days I'd use the military bore cleaner I ran out of. So I got some Sweets. I understand this stuff is pretty powerful compared to the old bore cleaner. My intention was to plug the muzzle and fill the barrel to the chamber. For those with up to date knowledge/experience, is this acceptable or is there a better way. Time is not a big factor as I've "been going to do that" for a few years now!!!
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
So I got some Sweets

No.!!!!! Don't do it if you value the barrel. Use a patch soaked in Sweets and leave it to work for MAXIMUM of 5 minutes. Then patch out and repeat. Heavy dose of ammonia in Sweets cuts copper but will etch the barrel steel. It is nasty stuff. I threw mine out.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Read the Sweet's directions very carefully.

I've never used the car battery and steel rod method, but that may be worth an initial try. I'm too much of a traditionalist to start with anything but a long Hoppe's bath followed by elbow grease. Ed's Red -- I don't add lanolin -- is pretty effective. Kroil's ability to seep into all the microscopic nooks and crannies is highly touted, though I've not noticed it to live up to the touting.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Kroil's ability to seep into all the microscopic nooks and crannies is highly touted, though I've not noticed it to live up to the touting.

Bingo . . . I've been mystified by all the claims for Kroil when compared to my results with it, quit using it for anything years ago.
 

300BLK

Well-Known Member
Sweets or other heavy duty copper cutters are OK for just that. I did a couple by alternating with Sweets and Hoppes #9, bronze brushes, tight patches, and one took a week before it looked good. It still had alternating loose and tight spots, so I got more aggressive and used valve grinding compound and JB Bore cleaner on a tight Hoppes laced flnnel patch. About 10 passes had it feeling smooth, so it got brushed & patched again to make sure the grit was out. It shoots great with cast and well beyond that ridiculous threshold.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
I always use #9 let it soak about 10 min or so, and follow up by a brass brush.
Shure ot might take a few goes but the end results were worth it.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
Kroil's ability to seep into all the microscopic nooks and crannies is highly touted, though I've not noticed it to live up to the touting.
I use Kroil's and have had great luck with it. It may be a coincidence, but my vintage .32-40 High Wall shoots better with every cleaning. And I clean my centerfires every time I shoot them.

My shooting partner was an armorer for the Army, shot on Army teams and has been a rifle shooter for most of his 87 years. He swears by Bore Tech Eliminator. Run a wet patch down the bore and let it soak for 15 minutes and then finish cleaning the bore. I was going to buy some, but Brownell's was out. They have it now, but Kroil has worked so well that I've held off getting the Bore Tech. They make various types, including a copper remover.
 
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Maven

Well-Known Member
Brett, Sweets removes both copper fouling, which it excels at and carbon. However, it's too expensive to fill up the bore with when plain ammonia will do (overnight soak). Follow that up with Kroil or Ed's Red, then oil the bore with your favorite lubricant.
 
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MW65

Wetside, Oregon
I've had great luck with Butch's Bore shine... wet patch & let soak for 15min... repeat... really pulls stuff out of the barrel. In my experience, pulls the cu, and all the other layers of fouling... no to little scrubbing needed.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Thanks muchly guys!!! I'll start with the more benign Hoppes and whatnot and then just use a patch soaked in Sweets. I know my 03 is severly fouled with jacketing, or that's my take on it anyway. Now I just have to find a day where I'm feeling up to it! Got to do the Krag since Duke (L Ross) was so kind to gift me some brass!
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Bingo . . . I've been mystified by all the claims for Kroil when compared to my results with it, quit using it for anything years ago.

Not arguing, because I've questioned it as well myself, until recently when I salvaged a prized natural sharpening stone I about ruined, doing edge touch-ups on the fly while wood-working. Don't have time to mess with the mess of oil and only need a slight touch up - but too many times without care. I tried everything I have here; Ed's Red, kerosene, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, "light oil," PB-Blaster, etc. Nothing would lift the grime out of the pores of that stone.

A few weeks ago, I noticed an old can of Kroil wasting away, sitting beside that stone and I figured what the heck, one last try.

I smeared a light layer of Kroil on the stone and rubbed with a Q-tip and the stuff started coming off, like right now - down to bare stone. Maybe it's something other than its ability to penetrate in this case, but it saved the stone AND I decided not to toss the can of Kroil.

Not to promote a new snake-oil or old wives' tale, but the one thing I've used on old, dirty, rusty, neglected rifles is Free-All, from NAPA. I really can't say it's any better on bores than anything else suggested here, but it makes much shorter work of all the parts that I can SEE as I clean. It's been quite a time and labor saver. I can leave it soak overnight with no ill effect as well. Doesn't smell bad and is only $7/11 oz can.

I recently cleaned up a Remington RB in 7mm with it after lots of soaking and elbow grease with all my other stuff, which was working but I think the elbow grease was doing more than any of the solvents. I'm a big fan of Ed's Red and use it on guns, cars, tractors, equipment, etc., but Free-All still seems to save me a lot of effort on old guns.

EDIT: Free-All does nothing for copper, but seems to loosen everything else on old neglected guns well.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
My guess would be that auto trans fluid is what make's Ed's Red, red. I've never tried it, but it is famous for penetrating and freeing up stuck pistons in engines. Might be worth a shot. I suspect just about every shooter has some in his garage. Doubt it will do anything for copper fouling.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
i really like the foaming cleaners. I do several over night soakings. It really gets stuff down to bare metal. But you might not like what you see when cleaning up some of these old rifles. I have a few that look nice and shiny looking down the bore till you stick a borescope in there.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
i really like the foaming cleaners. I do several over night soakings. It really gets stuff down to bare metal. But you might not like what you see when cleaning up some of these old rifles. I have a few that look nice and shiny looking down the bore till you stick a borescope in there.
But if you are shooting cast bullets, it does not seem to matter. My 03 looked pretty bad with the borescope. I was going to rebarrel. But with the right load and bullet, it's a tack driver. We have rifles at the club that for all intents are shot out. But the guys are putting oversized cast bullet in them and shooting excellent scores.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
i really like the foaming cleaners. I do several over night soakings. It really gets stuff down to bare metal. But you might not like what you see when cleaning up some of these old rifles. I have a few that look nice and shiny looking down the bore till you stick a borescope in there.

Bore scopes are not for those that don't really, really want to know. :eek: They will tell you whether you want to know or not.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Im with Tomme. FOAM and GEL versions of your favorite are gonna work better hands down. Why? Cause that thicker consistency simply STAYS IN CONTACT better!

I like sweets and a number of other ones. Years ago I started using a gel ammonia cleaner. Its been my goto. But as I said I believe its the consistency more then the brand.

CW
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I have a few rifles with epic "sewer pipe " bores. After cleaning down to bare metal, or as close as I could get, they all shoot cast pretty nicely. A couple required an application of Lee's Mule Snot to the bore and then a patch after it had dried some. Seemed to fill the pits and whatnot and allow for better shooting with cast. IME once the rifling is worn and rounded down to where it's more like a suggestion than a fact, the barrels done for. I was just looking at barrel liners in 22 and 32 cal today. Now that I have a decent lathe with many times the rigidity and capacity of the old Atlas 6" I think I'll be more successful in getting barrels ready for liners.

Anyways, thanks for the thoughts guys! My local gun shop just got in a mess of primers. Stupid expensive, but at least I have some access.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
This is what I use. Cleans carbon and copper. Safe to soak over night. Doesn’t stink like most. I use a few wet patches, a wet brush, then let it sit over night. A wet patch in the AM will push a bunch of crud out.