How to identify alloy

Most all my Lino Type has sentences, or words with backwards letters on it. :headscratch:
 
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Yep that is what I use for massive chunks of lead. Works pretty slick.

The harder stuff like lino, you might even get away with a wood blade on a circular saw. That's what I use at work to cut a piece off cast aluminum so I can melt it down for testing.
 
glassparman said:
Ok so I picked it up last night. It is 9x6.5x4 and definitely weighs 103 lbs.

I did the Staedtler pencil test and 2b was the first to scratch it so I would put it at around 11 bhn.

I still think it was a half way good deal at $50.
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Years ago, I acquired a round farm tractor wheel weight...likely homemade...likely a mystery Lead alloy. It was round, but about 4" thick, like glassparman's block. I used a power 7.25" circle saw like Mitty recommended. I used a cheapo chinese carbide tipped blade made for wood. I made a cut about 1/2" deep, then went over it again, going a bit deeper each time. Then I flipped the weight over, and made a cut that lined up with the first cut. Then I used a maul and cold chisel...She busted right open.
 
The thought of using a circle saw and having the blade bind up and jump back into my lap just bothers the heck out of me. It would take an assistant to lube the cut as you go and no stop and start again when cutting deep into the item. I realize folks have to use what is available at the time.
 
I picked up a counter weight from a tow motor once, looked like a big woodruff key
weight a lot, (never weighed it) my pot holds 300#, took 2 smeltings for the whole piece
used a crane to lower it into the pot, still have about 200# left, was mixing with WW 50/50, as cast 19 BHN, rang like a bell when it was in the form I started with
probably had Mono Type in it.
 
Dusty Bannister said:
The thought of using a circle saw and having the blade bind up and jump back into my lap just bothers the heck out of me. It would take an assistant to lube the cut as you go and no stop and start again when cutting deep into the item. I realize folks have to use what is available at the time.
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Luckily I didn't have a binding problem.
But when cutting something that's over 100 lbs, You better have both hands on the saw.
I used candle wax as a lube. I applied wax/lube before each cut.
 
I'm gonna have fun with this! Gonna feel like an old time prisoner busting rocks! LOL
 
I use the Ridgid PVC pipe cutter to cut up pipes and telephone lines. It is a ratcheting blade cutter.
 
Dusty Bannister said:
The thought of using a circle saw and having the blade bind up and jump back into my lap just bothers the heck out of me. It would take an assistant to lube the cut as you go and no stop and start again when cutting deep into the item. I realize folks have to use what is available at the time.
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I've been using skil saws for decades now, both commercially and at home. I've yet to see a standard saw with enough torque to bind and "jump back into your lap". They bind all the time, especially in green lumber and they tend to just stall. Still, if you aren't comfortable with it, that's understandable.
 
I almost cut my right thumb off with a table saw that bound up on a old square nail in some very old barn wood I was reclaiming for projects. I was using an old wheel that I should not have been using. But I was using it because I did not want to destroy a good new wheel I had because of this. I just was pushing too hard.
 
Bret4207 said:
I've been using skil saws for decades now, both commercially and at home. I've yet to see a standard saw with enough torque to bind and "jump back into your lap". They bind all the time, especially in green lumber and they tend to just stall. Still, if you aren't comfortable with it, that's understandable.
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My Porter Cable 345 will jump back at you unless you are conscience of it and prepared to resist. It's a 15A saw though.
 
Some time back, I was given a 30 pound bar of lead. It was about 2.5"x4"x12" in size. I ended up cutting it up into chunks with a hatchet used like a cold chisel driven by a hammer. For a small piece like that it sufficed.

I first tried using my bandsaw with a wood blade, it was brutally slow, and trying to force it at all caused the blade to bind and break.
 
I'm not trying to come down on anyone, but if you're using a skillsaw you should have both hands on it and your concentration should be on the saw. But, this is like the people that have issues with chainsaws and buzzsaws and every other cutting device I can thing of. If your head isn't in the game, or if you are one of those people who just isn't a tool using animal, you're going to have problems. You're probably better off being scared to death of a saw than being over comfortable. I carry lots of saw scars and I can't fins a single one that didn't involve me having my head shoved firmly up my backside when I got hurt.
 
Bret4207 said:
I'm not trying to come down on anyone, but if you're using a skillsaw you should have both hands on it and your concentration should be on the saw. But, this is like the people that have issues with chainsaws and buzzsaws and every other cutting device I can thing of. If your head isn't in the game, or if you are one of those people who just isn't a tool using animal, you're going to have problems. You're probably better off being scared to death of a saw than being over comfortable. I carry lots of saw scars and I can't fins a single one that didn't involve me having my head shoved firmly up my backside when I got hurt.
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I absolutely agree. I use tools for a living, and when you are not paying attention is when something happens. I've never been bit by a saw, but I have sanded the tips of a couple of fingers off using stationary sanders when I got comfortable with them.
 
My Dewalt cordless 4.5" panel saw will jump back. It is so light and handy one handed use is tempting. Two hands and focus on the work.
 
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