HP Work done by Erik Ohlen

[Ian]

Heat-treated, low-antimony, low-tin alloy is the trick for HPs above 1600 fps. Above 21-2200 fps, I feel that an HP is irrelevant because hydraulic shock damage is more than sufficient to do the job cleanly.

 

[Brad]

A deep hollowpoint, hard alloy, and high velocity are bad juju for deer.
Almost lost on that way with a deep hollowpoint of a 350 gr 45-70.

A shallow HP on a 30 cal bullet is a totally different story. Match the alloy, HP size, and velocity and you are in good shape.

Like Ian this is when I think low Sb alloys heat treated work well.

 

[abj]

Glen, the 2/4 alloy working is the best news I have heard in a while. That alloy is the easiest I have ever cast with. I kinda had it my head that above 3% Sb might be iffy. I'm kinda afraid the 1.5/1.5 I loaded already is going to lead the barrel even with the gas checks. Thanks for helping.
Tony

 

[abj]

Have any of you guys ever tried a very shallow dish on a flat nose style? My thinking is it would roll the edge down a little and stop. NOE has what he calls a dish point pin he includes in some molds with the hollow point as well. I haven't been able to see a drawing of it to know for sure. This maybe what Brad is referring to above as a shallow HP.
Thanks
Tony

 

[Brad]

Yes, a cup hollowpoint.
I prefer to not have the HP pin go deeper than 1/4 the length of the bullet. Even a little shallower than that is good.
Think of the shank length left if the entire nose forward of the bottom of the HP blows off. Is it long and heavy enough for good penetration?

 

[Glen]

Heat-treated, low-antimony, low-tin alloy is the trick for HPs above 1600 fps. Above 21-2200 fps, I feel that an HP is irrelevant because hydraulic shock damage is more than sufficient to do the job cleanly.

And above 2000 fps, standard alloys (like WW) expand very nicely all by themselves, without a HP cavity to initiate things.