Naughty or Nice

[freebullet]

going to have to back off, from my normal load

Might try 3.8-4gr of titegroup for clean, cheap, & accurate plinkers. Hs6 & numerous others work well in 9 carbine for target loads. I for one am excited to see what you can do with it when you get around to it.

 

[Winelover]

Thanks, I'll make a note of that. However, I need more powder, like I need a hole in my head. Unique and Bullseye are pretty dirty, in the carbine.....not too bad in my pistols. AA#7 to be determined.....only shot that after the carbine was already pretty fouled up.

 

[Winelover]

you know I almost fainted from seeing the picture, then I remembered I was in Idaho and not in Cali. and that it would be okay.
you could even Deer hunt with that here if you wanted to.

No centerfire caliber restrictions, except for nothing smaller than .22 caliber.....some ammo restrictions in Arkansas:


Modern Gun

All modern guns may be used during modern gun deer season with the following exceptions. You may not use the following for deer:

• buckshot in a .410 shotgun.
• shot smaller than No. 4 buckshot in any shotgun.
• rimfire cartridges, military or full-metal jacketed ammunition.
• any centerfire rifle or pistol smaller than .22 caliber.
• handguns with barrels shorter than 4 inches.
• Air guns.

Personally, I don't use anything smaller than .44 caliber with cast....centerfire rifle, smallest, would be a .270W and only then with j-words.


Muzzleloader

• Muzzleloading rifles must have a barrel at least 18 inches long and be at least .40 caliber. Magnifying sights may be used. The use of shot is not legal. Legal muzzleloaders are loaded through the muzzle and are not capable of firing a cartridge. Electronic pulse ignition muzzleloaders allowed.
• Muzzleloading handguns must have a barrel at least 9 inches long and be at least .45 caliber if they shoot conical bullets (200 grains or heavier). If round balls are used, the minimum caliber is .530.
• A hunter may carry a muzzleloading handgun of any caliber as backup to a muzzleloading rifle.

Their rules for muzzloading hand guns, actually excludes my 7 1/2" ROA, which I find ludicrous.....so I just figure in the length of the cylinder.

 

[fiver]

that is kind of odd on the muzzle loaders.
even on the rifles it kind of forces you into a different direction other than a traditional type hunt.
the 50 cal. and a round ball is pretty popular out here for deer hunting.

 

[freebullet]

Haven't tried it myself, but the aa7 is one of 2 that shot sub moa @100 from a Sig carbine w/124xtp. Definitely worth a try.

 

[Winelover]

I've been using Accurate powders for over 30 years. They were a real bargain, back then. They are one of the few powder manufacturers that actually list lead bullet loads in their loading guide. I have their Number 1 Reloading guide (copyright 1994) with the red cover. Refer to it often. For instance, they list four lead bullet loads for 9 mm......115 SWC, 125 RN, 130 RN and a 145 RN. Even list a lead bullet for my 338W Magnum.

 

[Winelover]

Here's what Accurate says about #7:

No. 7

A double base, ball propellant originally developed for the 9mm NATO carbine ammunition. It has become a favorite propellant for IPSC shooters who shoot the .38 Super Auto. Somewhat more specialized than No. 2 or No. 5, it is well suited to high intensity cartridges. The popularity of No. 7 has increased dramatically since it's introduction in 1983. It is a good choice for magnum handgun cartridges (such as .357, .41 and .44 Magnum) when slightly less than full power loads are preferred.

 

[Sig556r]

I have put @ 400 cast bullets through it, after @ 200 factory FMJ's. Since switching over to cast, I have only dry brushed the barrel, followed by a couple of tight fitting patches. No lead specks were apparent. What I did feel was the patched jag, dragging, about mid barrel.

Since Rick was coming over for X-mass dinner, I had him bring his bore scope. However, we couldn't find any rough spots.

There was some minimal leading, in the first few inches. I attribute that to under size bullets (.356) in ammo, I loaded years ago for my HP. Since then, I've been sizing to .358 for my nines.

Nice gear.
Did you slug your barrel? .358 seems tight for a 9mm with your .356 loads are grouping nice.
Planning on using cast .356 PC bullets in front of AA#7 on a Keltec sub2000 which slugs at .3555. Some of my semi-auto pistol with +.356 barrel likes cast PC sized to .358 though.
Still get minute leading nonetheless, nothing that quick brush & patch can't get rid of anyways.

 

[Ian]

A lot of 9mm pistols lead their bores with the larger bullets because they are shaving lead off on the sharp edge at the end of the chamber and smearing those flakes/shavings onto the bore. A throating job to ease the transition of the bullet into the barrel can fix that.

 

[Winelover]

Nice gear.
Did you slug your barrel? .358 seems tight for a 9mm with your .356 loads are grouping nice.

Have never slugged a barrel in 40 years of reloading for cast. Never been necessary. Never had more than minimal leading.
I cast for 9 mm, 38, 357, 44, 45, 308W & 338W. That includes half dozen nines, three 38's, three 357's, three 44's and one 45 LC.

Don't do powder coating and not going to start, at my age.

BTW, that group I posted, the bullets were lubed with Carnuba Red and unsized. They drop at .358- .3585 diameter, with my alloy.

 

[Winelover]

A lot of 9mm pistols lead their bores with the larger bullets because they are shaving lead off on the sharp edge at the end of the chamber and smearing those flakes/shavings onto the bore. A throating job to ease the transition of the bullet into the barrel can fix that.

That's my fear.....wouldn't be easy to send that barrel in for throating.

 

[Rick]

We can take a look at the chamber throat, we have the technology.

 

[fiver]

I think winelover is a lot like me.
get it working then tinker a little to refine the process and leave it be.

 

[Ian]

I did that for years and years, sometimes it's fun, but usually not. Then I finally had enough compromising and working around problem and started fixing things proper, because in the long run, it's easier that way for me.

 

[Rick]

Many times that "get it working" is far easier/faster, less frustrating when ya first do the things that let ya know what your up against. Then "refine the process".

 

[freebullet]

Our ar9 did not have a throat & would not chamber 356 at all. I picked up a manson 35 cal pistol throating reamer & it worked like a champ. Cleaned up a couple other pistols, all will chamber & run the same loads now.

Since you can already chamber cast I'd bet you have a reasonable throat. It probably wouldn't take much to smooth it out & reduce the chamber pressure down to the point where your pistol loads might not rivet primers in the new carbine. It don' take much. I'd be happy to share the process I've tried, both the fail & succes, & to go one further, I would let you borrow my reamer.

I removed my barrels to do it because it wasn't difficult. If you can remove the bolt an extend tap handle can be used to hold the reamer & do it without removing the barrel. The long tap handle only cost 20$.

One of the pistols only took 3 turns to go from oal sensitive to chamber everything normally.