Paper patch sizers

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
12L14, aka "ledloy", aka "free machining steel" is a joy to machine. Although it can be welded, it's not a good candidate for welding. If you're going to make something that will require welding, better off using 1018. Doesn't machine as fast as 12L14, but still easy to machine and takes a case hardening very well.
 
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freebullet

Guest
Very nice work Brad.

It sure didn't take you long to surpass Lee qc standards. When did you realize you had?

My guess would be your second threading task.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Brad, also forgot to mention, you could not have chosen a better micrometer. If I'm not mistaken, along with the digital, that mike has the traditional vernier scale on the barrel and thimble. That makes for a great second opinion on a measurement and backup if your battery gets used up.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Brad,
Looks really great. I, too, recently started running much faster RPMs and surface finish
improved on some alloys, about the same on others, but done faster. Just made up three
spuds for Forster case trimmer and several peep sight apertures for Lyman and Williams peep
sights. Read the book on knurling, so mine is a lot better but I need a better tool,
too. Your knurling looks really nice.

SmokeyWolf, can you recommend a source for speeds and feeds for various alloys?
Gotta agree, that is one serious mic!

Bill
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Me, too.

Thanks, Smokeywolf. This sort of advice on what sources of info are best is very valuable.

Hmm, Brad. Not sure I need that nice a knurling tool! I have bought nice S&W revolvers
for less than that, although not in the last 10 years. Will think a bit, good tools are often
worth the cost. Good article on sharpening, never heard of the shearing tool, will have
to try it.

I will be getting on of these soon. A friend has one and I use it, but need my own. Works
very well to make HSS threading cutters and similar.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Tool-Grinder/H7762
 
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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I am using a Craftsman grinder I have had for years. I bought new Norton wheels for it. One a coarser grit, one a finer grit. Mine are white and pretty soft. No clogging, they cut fast, and stay far cooler than the cheap grey wheels the grinder came with. Only down side is they are far faster in wear. Might replace them every couple years. I wouldn't buy wheels other than Norton right now.
I have free hand ground all my tools so far. Even the threading tools. I keep a protractor nearby to check angles. I use 5/16 tool blanks mostly. Far less to grind away and cheaper to purchase. When grinding away 75% of a blank for an inch to make a small boring tool that really matters.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have one of those. It was in my first order to Enco along with oil for the ways and oil for the gearbox. Wouldn't be without one.
I use the protractor as it lets me see how close I am. I also use it to set angles for other tools.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I have and use a bench grinder, and then use stones to finish edges, but when I use
my friend's tool grinder it is great to set angles on the table and miter guide and just grind a
perfect edge and angle. REALLY nice to make up a handful of thread cutters or touch
up the existing cutters. Kind of reminds me of working on my table saw.

One thing that seems to help me is using "too large" cutter blanks. Certainly when making
tiny boring bars of solid HSS, you are absolutely correct to use smaller blanks, but for other
cutters, some of my engineering knowledge comes into my mind. The stiffness of a cantilever
beam (cutting tool) is proportional to the CUBE of the height of the tool, so a tool twice as
tall is eight times as stiff. A 1/2 by 1/2 cutting tool is 3 times as stiff as a 3/8x3/8 cutting
tool, and is 16 times as stiff as a 1/4x1/4 cutting tool. The sixteen X comes from eight times due
to the height change and another factor of two due to width change.

Also, the overhang of the cutting tool needs to be as short as is possible while clearing features.
The deflection of a cantilever beam with a tip loading is proportional to the CUBE of the overhang
distance.

Examples: a 1/2 x 1/2 cutting tool extending 1" from the tool holder, with a 1000 lb load
at the tip due to cutting forces (arbitrary load) will deflect 0.0021". A 3/8 x 3/8 cutter
set up the same way, with same load will deflect 0.00675", basically triple deflection. A
5/16 x 5/16 cutting tool set up the same way will deflect 0.01398", twice the 3/8 cutter and
seven times the 1/2 inch cutter.

If you cut the overhang distance from 1" to 3/8", the deflections drop by a factor of 19
to 0.00011" for 1/2 cutter, 0.00036" for 3/8" cutter, and 0.00072" for 5/16" cutter.

The key take-home is that small increases in tool cutter height make very big reductions
in deflection (relates to chatter, and smoothness of cut, plus accuracy of cut), and small
reductions in tool overhang also make very large reductions in tip deflection - cube functions.
Tool cross section width is directly proportional, assuming the cross section height stays the same.
A 1/2 " tall cutter that is 1/2" wide, if changed to 1" wide is twice as stiff. If that is
rotated 90 degrees to 1" tall by 1/2" wide it is eight times as stiff as 1/2 x 1/2.

Use a "too big" cutter and the shortest practical overhang past the tool holder.

Simple engineering truths that help when selecting cutter sizes and setting the cutter in
the tool holder.

Bill
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Nice write-up Bill. Haven't seen computations like that since the early '80s when I went through my apprenticeship. And, just as you did, at the end of that lesson, my instructor said the same thing you did; "Use [the biggest toolbit possible and practical and keep it's projection beyond the holder as short as possible and practical].

Now what you have to include to get possible workpiece deflection, cutter deflection and potential for chatter is, slop in the dovetails of the cross-slide and slop in the headstock bearings.

As an aside, I have on many occasions, when convenience or just plain necessity made me choose a 1/8" toolbit to make a cut, I will set it on top of a 3/8" high speed or tungsten bit to give me the support to hang the little toolbit out far enough to make the cut.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
That is an excellent strategy! When clamped together like that they act as if they were much taller,
and height is a cube function, so the 1/8" acts like it is 1/2" over most of the length, four times
taller is 64 times as stiff.
I will keep that practical application in mind, thanks. Knowing that you want to stay stiff is one thing,
but coming up with a simple and extremely effective strategy to actually accomplish it is another
thing.

As to the "cup grinder" comment, look at the machine I linked to in #28, this is the Grizzly version of the
identical unit which used to be sold by Harbor Freight. REALLY nice for grinding cutting tools.

Bill
 
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smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Yep! In machine shop jargon, a "cup wheel grinder". I was a fool not to have taken the one I had in the MGM shop. Most shops keep green silicon carbide wheels on them for grinding brazed carbide tools.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Yes, my friend has put green wheels on his - he is a tool and die maker, runs a really
neat one man shop with two CNC mills and a LOT of other equipment.

Bill