Show what kind of Bullets you cast

Jwatts8815

Active Member
Happy New Years guys!!! Considering I’m up at 3am daily for work, I probably won’t make it to midnight but I got my new press set up today. Highly impressed with Inline Fabrication, got their ultra mount, the sky light and some of their baskets and brackets. Bullet tray arriving on Monday
 

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Jeff H

NW Ohio
Removed the GC on this mold today.

Ranch Dog 195g
I got the 6C Lee of that mould when Michael first did it. Mine cast significantly under-sized (.355") in the middle of the "micro-bands." Shot fine in the Rossi 92, with its .355" groove, but I've always regretted not being able to use it in anything else.

I gave that one to my best friend, but could borrow it back, but he might not like it if I "PB'd" it.

That's a great bullet.

Nice work!
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Jeff powder coat that bullet, bring it out .002 - .003 might be able to use it in something besides the Rossi.
Nice looking bullet
Yea, I was thinking that as I was typing. Need to have him drop that mould in my car while at work this semester.;)

EDIT: I just checked earlier today, and the single coat of PC I'm putting on my RDO 310-165 is adding two and a half to three thousandths to their diameter.

Now, to figure out how to talk hum into letting me cut the GC rebates out of half of the cavities!
 
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STIHL

Well-Known Member
“Culls” shoot down the barrel and ring steel at 25-30 yards without issue. I mean I don’t like round bands, but at the same time you have to ask what’s the application and pressure I’m sending these under. I’m not scared to admit it I have wasted some checks on some questionable 358-156 HP they have shot really good at 25 for me so some really clean bullets should shoot better, that mold is a problem child. Which my alloy probably needs about 2% tin added. I’m going to try it with that mold and on a couple Loverin bullets to see if they will get that last little fill out on the bands.

I don’t have a whole lot of time to cast so I will save some that probably should go back in the pot, but for a very mild load, you can get by with PC. I’m pretty picky, but I know sometimes you take what you have and use it and just see.

Application is everything.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
“Culls” shoot down the barrel and ring steel at 25-30 yards without issue. I mean I don’t like round bands, but at the same time you have to ask what’s the application and pressure I’m sending these under. I’m not scared to admit it I have wasted some checks on some questionable 358-156 HP they have shot really good at 25 for me so some really clean bullets should shoot better, that mold is a problem child. Which my alloy probably needs about 2% tin added. I’m going to try it with that mold and on a couple Loverin bullets to see if they will get that last little fill out on the bands.

I don’t have a whole lot of time to cast so I will save some that probably should go back in the pot, but for a very mild load, you can get by with PC. I’m pretty picky, but I know sometimes you take what you have and use it and just see.

Application is everything.

I'll let ya in on the secret . . . But you have to keep it a secret, don't tell anyone.

Mold temperature. No, not pot temp but Goldilocks mold temp. and a consistent casting Rythm to keep Goldilocks a happy girl.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
You dedicated bottom pour guys can cut down your culls, significantly, if you ladle cast with a large enough ladle..................just saying. Rowell #1 or even a #2 ladle.
 

STIHL

Well-Known Member
I may have to try a ladle with that HP, but one block will be doing great and The other just won’t get there toward the nose, it may be I can’t keep a fast enough rhythm with it, I don’t know. I have got it to cast good, but it’s taken a butane torch on that block to get it there and it gets frosty at that point. Alloy may be a tad crappy too. Have a 429-421 HP and it does fine, anyway. Application is still everything, if your plinking at 25-30 yards on 1/2 size silhouettes you don’t have to be as picky. If your shooting 100 yard groups trying to get the best you can then you want them perfect. I’ll weigh them out and inspect them very well before I load them.

One on the left is near perfect, all the rest are in varying states. I coated and loaded them. I think that was from my first casting run with that mold. It’s gotten better, but still long way to go for that one.
 

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Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Could be your alloy but my guess is your mold isn't hot enough. Used a hot plate, while alloy is melting and/or try the ladle. You be surprisingly happier. With a large enough ladle, you can flood the mold with molten alloy, allowing excess to run back into pot. When the mold is hot enough, you can cut the sprue with a gloved hand, easily.

How do your gas checks fit? Sometimes, I get good band fill out but last cavity poured will exhibit looser gas check fit.
 

STIHL

Well-Known Member
Checks are tight and fill out really good, shank is very short on this one. Sprues cut easily, but I agree it is a heat problem. I can heat that half with a torch while casting snd it will clear up and cast good for about 5 bullets. Then start getting sloppy again. It’s probably I can’t keep a fast enough rhythm with the HP pin being an extra step. It’s an older small block mold. And I leave it on the hot plate for a long time. Covered with a baking pan. It should be getting hot, but it’s not getting hot enough.

Alloy is junk lead old pig lead it has no telling what in it and at what percent. Some known alloy will probably solve some issues, just need to get off my rear and order some. Going to try 2% tin added to the mess I have and see what it will do. Had thought about it yesterday and forgot to grab me 2 rolls of 95-5 solder in town.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Mold iron , brass or aluminum? Aluminum dissipates heat faster. Steel holds heat the best, then brass. I don't worry about alloy, except for hunting bullets (soft side) and (harder side) high velocity rifle bullets. I have cast with a wide variety of mystery metal. Rarely, do I add tin. Exception is when I want a known alloy like 20-1 or 30-1. Tin is expensive and too much is not a good thing. With mystery metal, you have no idea how much tin is already in it. Cast enough while varying your technique and you will be able to recognize the idiosyncrasies of your molds. Pure lead (softest) is the hardest to achieve good fill out/sharp bands. The harder the alloy, the easier fill out gets.

Us old timers, didn't have internet, hot plates, PID's or even thermometers.................or custom mold makers.
I used a propane torch to pre heat my molds for many years. However, one must be careful not to warp the mold.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Jeff powder coat that bullet, bring it out .002 - .003 might be able to use it in something besides the Rossi.
Nice looking bullet
Well, I dug some of these out and proceeded to TRY to remove the tumble-lube (which is BARELY even visible on the bullet) with mineral spirit and no joy, after a long soak and frequent agitation. Acetone? No better. Man, that stuff is TENACIOUS! I finally soaked/agitated ten in acetone for a couple hours and ended up having to rub/scrape that thin film off with a shop rag.

Ten clean RDO TLC359-190 RFs went into the Cool-Whip bowl with a bunch more RDO TLC30-165 RFs (V3 or 4) and made it a point to NOT tap any extra powder off before setting them onto the tray. Everything baked up nice, but still not enough added girth. Thee slipped through the .358" sizing die

The upshot is that after seeing and handling this bullet again, I really want one again and have to figure out who makes the closest copy. This bullet shot extremely well in the Rossi and one tight-grooved 357 Max H&R Carbine I had. No matter the powder or charge, it shot well. I did have to trim 357 Mag brass several thousandths short to get it to run through the Rossi's digestive tract, but it wasn't a big deal. Long-seated in 38s worked, but I preferred using the longer (though slightly shortened) 357 brass.

I like my NOE 360-180 WFN a lot, but I really, really liked this one, especially in rifles. Maybe a new one configured as a 4C with 3 PB/1 GC? Not ideal in any revolver I shoot, but fantastic in carbine barrels.

EDIT:
HAH!!! I NEVER seem to be able to find an NOE mould I want IN STOCK, yet...


OR...

This would be my FIRST Accurate mould:


New Year may be getting off to a good start!
 

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Jeff H

NW Ohio
Well, this was quite unplanned, but I'm blam,... CREDITING @Glaciers with this spontaneous purchase.

After I dug these out of the cabinet, I remembered how much I liked this bullet. I got a NOE, 4C, 2xPB/2xGC, aluminum for a fuzz over $100. With what I've gone through sorting through moulds that worked and moulds that don't work over the years, that's a serioius bargain. It's been a long time since I've found what I want in stock at NOE and I love the first one I got, so it was an easy decision. I'm going to need a 30 Cal HP eventually, so I may yet get my first Accurate mould too. Later.

I guess I've violated my self imposed llinit of two moulds per caliber, but this one was great in carbines. I don't think I'll give up the NOE 360-180, shown in my lineup though, as I am quite fond of it in my revolvers.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Jeff you might do a search of some of Ben’s postings for his methods in bringing out the diameter as well as making the cavity or cavities round.
Basically Ben took a bullet cast from the mold needing attention and put a screw into the bullet, applying a polishing compound and would use a drill to spin the bullet in the cavity checking for diameter often.
I tried this once on a 30 cal 2 cavity LEE mold, but I did not need much and I’m a timid kinda guy when it comes to altering molds. It worked pretty good
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Jeff you might do a search of some of Ben’s postings for his methods in bringing out the diameter as well as making the cavity or cavities round.
Basically Ben took a bullet cast from the mold needing attention and put a screw into the bullet, applying a polishing compound and would use a drill to spin the bullet in the cavity checking for diameter often.
I tried this once on a 30 cal 2 cavity LEE mold, but I did not need much and I’m a timid kinda guy when it comes to altering molds. It worked pretty good
I've followed Ben's wisdom and methods and have applied some of his lessons on some of my moulds. Thanks for the reminder. I gave that other mould away to a friend who swears by it in his 35 Remington 336, so I actually needed to buy a new one. If he likes it and it's working for him, I'm mot messing with it or asking to get it back.

As for being "timid," maybe that's another way of saying you have a bit more sense than some of us. I set my cherished NOE 360-180 on the drill press table and removed the gas check rebate from three of the four cavities. I'm not a metal-worker, but I like that bullet, but wanted a plain-base much more than a GC. I did the same with a Lee C309-113RF (2C) and turned out one of the best and handiest 30 cal moulds I've owned. It was easier to work up the guts to do the Lee 2C than the NOE 4C, I'll tell you that much. I've lapped several Lee molds and a few Lymans. Wit a new NOE, right off the shelf, that I know will be right, I'll play it safe and go that route this time.

I think that with those, I've probably tempted fate enough and the next time, Lady Luck may just slap me down - and hard.

And thanks for the nudge. If you hadn't mentioned PC'ing those, I'd probably not have dug them out and had the reminder of how much I liked that bullet.