single pass check maker

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I think that is what I am going to do. I have a few bedframes that work perfect for angle iron projects..............................

..........................I seen a add for a guy today that said he would pay $500 for a 1K brick. I need to start selling some of mine. I have plenty for a while but I am always looking to replace what I am shooting or loading up.

Hmmmmm, bed frames..... I like that. Post something if you go that route, would you? Gears turning...

Good luck with the machines. Sounds like a fun day.

Those prices are absolutely insane - someone is willing to pay fifty cents a primer.... That is actually the scariest thing I've heard since this last round of crap started.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
well even at 50 cents a primer and 35 cents a bullet you'd still be coming in well under 2 dollars a round, which is what I have been seeing some rifle stuff go for.
85 cents a pop for 9mm hasn't been unheard of.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
well even at 50 cents a primer and 35 cents a bullet you'd still be coming in well under 2 dollars a round, which is what I have been seeing some rifle stuff go for.
85 cents a pop for 9mm hasn't been unheard of.

Valid logic.

I hadn't crunched the numbers because I haven't seen ammo prices. I'm still using primers and powder from '94, when I VERY reluctantly opened my wallet after they had jumped from $10/k to $12/k. I've bought a lot of $30/k primers too though and just can't imagine having to pay more than that yet.

A few years ago, a friend offered me a brick of CCI 300s for $30. I thought he was kidding! I told him "I know we're friends, but I'm stopping short of actual "intimacy" in this relationship!"

He chuckled and told me that I'd apparently not been paying attention and that I'd better take them because he knew he could move them at a match he was heading to - for $50! I STILL thought he was kidding.

He wasn't.
 

Barn

Active Member
I made a jig for my Rockwell Versacut saw with a diamond blade. This is one of the small 4" saws. I got 7 ~1/2" x 50' strips out of the 4" x 50' roll. I would not recommend this procedure for the faint of heart. A jig made out of something other than wood would work much better. Would I do it again? --- Maybe.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I wouldn't even pay that for 32 Rem or 264 WM . I had the for almost 5 years before I broke down and cut down the 30-30 . Took 2 yr to find correct HS for the 264 . I can't even imagine deliberately paying a dime for primers , 4.2¢ was as high as I ever went and that's because I wasn't well stocked and hadn't seen an app in 2 years .
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
heck RB why didn't you ask, I got some 264 brass new in the bag and ain't even got a 264.

this whole thing sucks big time.
primer prices were actually coming down.
I was snagging them right before everything went empty at like 22-23 dollars a brick and Winchester had just started doing rebates on sleeves of primers.
 

ShamusSage

New Member
For .30's we used Amerimax 68114 for years and years through FreeChex tools. Its usually about .0147. So Charley and my Dad called it .015 metal. Its hard, but it works.

Litho comes in .008, .010, .012 ect. There is only one manufacture now, I can't remember the name. You can get the "blanks" without the blue/green coatings. Its not cheap stuff at all though. DEI Systems is one source still left, the online sellers are usually more than DEI. I go through a sales rep, DEI has the best pricing I've found.
 
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RBHarter

West Central AR
I think I have enough 70s vintage WW and Super X to load it all once and sell the rifle at the end of it's best accuracy , with the dies , and all of that 2x brass . I think I have about 250 pieces .
 

Spindrift

Well-Known Member
I cut strips using a paper cutter. I’ve made simple gauges for each caliber. I feed a bit excess plate through the cutter, and push it back with the gauge before cutting. This is makes strip cutting very fast, accurate- and you don’t cut your fingers.

40FE382E-D5EE-42C1-B95D-043B0465F490.jpeg
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I probably should look into one of these too.

Straighten things out I found my printing plate stash. It was standing behind the oil tank!! Its about 3/4" of plates about 30x40". That aughta make me a few...

CW
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Still waiting on my die set. Getting mixed messages from the maker. He said he was going to make mine yesterday. Even though it was supposed to be here last week. I guess I have extra time on my hands right now as I can't do much with one hand.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Dies showed up today. It is a no go with the litho I have. I about ripped the press off a 2x6 built table. I have 2 3/4" layers of ply on the top. Headed to home depot in a little while once the old lady gets home from work to see what they have.

Dies seem ok by just looking at them. I think the threads are a little oversized. It was hard to screw a lee ring onto the die. Maybe he did not knock off the tops of the thread with a file before he took them off the lathe.
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
the thickness will change the clearance, I'd imagine he set the punch up for simple to get .0012 roof flashing stuff.
 

ShamusSage

New Member
Around here its .012 to .016 for aluminum flashing at Home Depot etc. It varies a bunch. I hated to order it sight unseen. What I ordered was supposedly .014, but I got a few rolls much thicker. Last roll I got off the internet was .0176 thick! So it jammed in the freechex III tools. I haven't tried the flashing in a long time though.
 

Spindrift

Well-Known Member
I picked up my new .35 cal Pat Marlin checkmaker yesterday. Give me a couple of days, and I’ll try a few different materials and report which materials work for me.
 

Spindrift

Well-Known Member
My .35 checkmaker is up and running, and I tried a few materials tonight. I had some Lee c358-200 cull bullets.
I tried four different materials:
- beer can, 0.004in
- double beer can
- disposable alu serving tray, 0.007in
- 0,3mm/0.012in alu plate, bought of ebay from seller «pickbestforyou»

I ran the bullets base-first through a .360 sizer, and then a .358 sizer to see if there where any differences.

The beer can checks (both single and double) were a bit to loose, regardless of sizer. They might work if you coat prior to seating checks, actually.
The 0.007 alu was maybe a little loose after .360 sizing, but were firm after .358.
The 0.012 alu worked perfectly well through both sizers.

My routine is, I mount the checks through the .358 sizer, then coat, and finally run through a .360 (which is what my Whelen prefers). I think I’ll give the «serving tray checks» a go first. These trays are widely available locally at a low price, the metal is pliable and making the checks effortless.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Got my amerimax coil today. It is Measuring 0.0130"

I tried the check maker and I think there is a problem with it. It is cutting the edge away from the strip. And then you can not remove the strip or slide it to the next area to cut another one. You have to pull the strip out with pliers. And the checks are either missing part of the side or it has a finger running up past the rest of the side.

I am making sure that the strip is pushed all the way against the back side of the slot. I don't think the slot is cut deep enough to support the thin edge. The O.D. he turned the part for the slot i feel is too small. There is not enough meat left on the side because of the small diameter.

I sent the guy a message but have not heard back yet. I don't know what he used to cut the slot but I have nothing that is that thin. Well I have a Japanese pull saw but I am NOT using that to try to cut the slot deeper.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
maybe cut a little strip that's rounded on the back side and slide it in from the front to double check your theory??
if that works then you should know.