Smith 625 JM info

While these three of my favorite AR revolvers all shoot well with light loads, the 625 is the only one that I fire full 900 f/s loads.
45 Ar Revolvers.JPG
 
B-A: I assume the speed loader pic is of the 260s. Those look like they would be wicked medicine on a set of bowling pins at 10 yds!!!
 
RicinYakima said:
While these three of my favorite AR revolvers all shoot well with light loads, the 625 is the only one that I fire full 900 f/s loads.
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Yer KILLIN' Me, Ric! I have the top one (Brazialin '46 contract, actually 1918 DOM). Hvae handled an 1894 MKII, and prob gonna pick up the 625 MK! I def intend to shoot only light stuff in the 1917, for paper/fun. If I get the 625, would want to push it to top end for my local range bowling pin match. Great to know it handles the full loads well (as I expected, being an N frame in 45 ACP!).
 
Shot bowling pins with the M1917 in the late 1970's. Found the Keith #452423 was the best with a not too hot load. Too much energy tends to just blow pieces out of the pin. Sharp shoulder, heavy weight tends to "grab" the pin and push it back. One of my friends made a 275 grain full wadcutter out of a Belding and Mull mould for his S&W Model 25 in 45 Colt. Very effective, but the recoil got to him sometimes before the table was cleaned. HTH's, Ric
 
The 452423 looks close to the Lee 45 255 SWC (which I have). I have the 1917, and AR brass. Intend to try the Lee, and the 454190. And sure they would potentially work even better in a 625.
 
oscarflytyer said:
B-A: I assume the speed loader pic is of the 260s. Those look like they would be wicked medicine on a set of bowling pins at 10 yds!!!
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Ahhh, the deer fell right over & 1 was about 65 yds. Crushes rocks if they are hard. 900fps so …., but ain't never been attacked by a bowling pin yet.
 
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oscarflytyer said:
The 452423 looks close to the Lee 45 255 SWC (which I have). I have the 1917, and AR brass. Intend to try the Lee, and the 454190. And sure they would potentially work even better in a 625.
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If I had a complaint, I would pick on the twist rate. Coarse that is my pet peeve for revolvers in general after building a 16 twist 44 Mag. If I re-barreled, I'd try for a 12 twist. In the 625s, any bullet design of 200 grains that I tried, shoots with just about everything you wanna throw in the case. By 250 grain, options become limited & sensitive, particularly in the 4"ers. But in fairness, those 260s fly straight way out passed 100 yds anyway.
 
For my multiple .45 ACP/AR revolvers I have standardized on the NOE 452-228 SWC for most of my shooting. I think it is a copy of an old ideal/Lyman design. It is a great shooting bullet and casts and loads great.

This thread has the diagrams:

http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php/topic,1771.msg15894.html#msg15894

The one on the left is an as cast cull I saved for the pic and on the right is a ready to fire one coated in Hi Tek Black with gold flake in it and a gas check.
 

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I have a 625 JM ...It's been a disappointment !

I had a 625-8 that I just loved, but sold it so I could have a set of those kewl looking grips they put on the 625 JM.
Well, that was a mistake :(

The 625-8 took all the different kinds of moon-clip ammo I made to feed it, and was more accurate than me...and it had the usual excellent trigger that most Smiths made in the late 1980s had.

This 625 JM must have some tight specs, I have all kinds of trouble with getting moon-clips of ammo into the cylinder. I can't use the same stuff I make for my semi-auto 45. I am forced to use R+P only, because it seems to be the thinnest walls of all the different brands I have. I have to size to .451 for the same reason, to get ammo to reliably fall into the cylinder. The trigger is cruncky and heavy, I haven't got to that project yet, but maybe someday. The kewl looking grips move, I can't seem to tighten them enough so they would not move. So put a "shim" on there, that helped a lot, but not 100% solid. Then once while cleaning, I removed the grips and lost that shim and then I just decided to replace those grips with some hard Rubber Pacmeyers, which feel better anyway.

that's my 2¢
 
I have a '17 Smith I adore. Added a Wondersight and use Starline 45AR brass and the 45BD FN bullet with not a lot of Unique. IIRC it's a 850ish fps load. Shoots great, works on paper, rocks and porkies. I have no doubt it would do fine on cattle, coyotes and mutant ninja zombie bikers. I once passed on a Smith 1955 Target 45ACP, 6", for somewhere around $300. That was a really dumb move on my part...
 
Too soon I will have a 1917 Colt . For whatever reason it shoots the 452-255 RNFP Lee way better than either of my Smiths . The untouched August 1918 is pretty impressive with several different 200s and makes up for it's poor performance with the Lee and NOE version of the 454424 .
The 2nd 1917 , April 1918 , was badly abused . I was going to keep this to myself because it has nothing to do with any of the 25 series ....... The barrel was chopped to 3" and the sight chopped down with a rear target sight added , as a result it shoots about 4 ft high at 50 yd even with 200s . I took a liking to the M&P M10 during a stent as an armed guard . I'm not sure what the draw is/was . Anyway based on research N frame parts are N frame parts and M29 parts fit Triple locks etc . I found a 1955 barrel , half lug , rib , pinned front sight and only needs to be set back 1.5 threads and index and the dolls head adjustment for the ejector which is already drilled for the Triple Lock fittings . Basically when done the old girl , Ms April , will look like a super sized M&P M10 . Anyway I'm holding out for cylinder to cut for 45 Colts and clips . It's currently a case mouth headspace 45 S&W (Schofield) . I'm hoping that the 55' barrel will get Ms April on par with the Colts . I've been jonesing for a double action 45 Colts for a long , long time . The RBH 45 Colts , ACP , and a pending S&W ream cylinder just doesn't fully scratch the itch ....

For those lost , 1917 Smith 45 ACP awesome with moon clips and 200-230 sucks with 250-265s . 1917 Colts 45 ACP with clips awesome with 230-265 and 200 gr SWC but not RNFP . Major refit alterations to a 3rd to satisfy a gap ......
 
After the NYSP switched from Colt New Service 45's to (IIRC) Smith 38 Specials in the early 1950's, the New Service 45 Colts were sold through the mail. One ad I saw offered them for $11.99 with an issue belt, holster and Sam Browne.

If only, eh? ;)
 
Update. 1) Shot a buddy's yesterday (some good upgrades!) 2) Def think I am going to pull the trigger on one. 3) Stock, doesn't have chamfered chambers, and I REALLY want that, because I will probably shoot mostly SWCs in it with moonies. THOUGHT that my local guy could/would be set up to chamfer the chambers - but, he doesn't have the tool. Anybody know someone who can do this, at a reasonable price? Or, do I just make a deal and buy the tool for my local guy as a trade out?
 
I would give "Doug Guy" over on the old site a call or an E-mail. He specializes in cylinder work, and may have the capability to dress off the non-throat end of the roller portion of a wheelgun. I have yet to read or hear of a dissatisfied customer from site commentaries.
 
One New Year resolution I made was to re-acquire a 45 ACP revolver of some kind. I came close to snagging one of the S&W 625 variants at a local shop about 6 months ago, but like the Model 48 I balked upon a year ago, the frame contours on the Hillary Hole S&Ws all look distended and "wrong" to me. The red/white/blue stock set on the 625 I decided against also do it no favors. Grips are easily changed--chassis contours, not so much. And the multiple tales of woe concerning S&W Q/C are concerning as well. So--I dunno. Maybe a Ruger swap-cylinder BH is the best idea, those sometimes need a construction finish/refinement, but the chassis is usually sound. Grail Gun would be a 1917 of either make that was unmolested or their commercial equivalents, but those bring hefty tariffs these days. Buckshot recently scored a Uberti Cattleman in 45 ACP, and he likes it a bunch. The Cattleman and BH have the large advantage of being largely unaffected by CA anti-gun idiocies, too. At any rate, I need to give my new-to-me Lyman #452423 a platform to cast for.

Someone PLEASE tell me that I am not the only fool that snags a bullet mould or die set and THEN elects to find an arm to fit it.
 
In case no one told you, '423 will feed in 95% of issue 1911's and most commercial A1's. Just seat the top drive band to the case mouth plus what you need for headspace and reduce the load.
 
Keep your eyes peeled at shows . Ms April 1918 was heavily abused but not mechanically injured mosly ugly grips and a chopped barrel . Just 250 I later got a M1955 barrel that will soon be fitted for just $75 .
Research says an N frame is an N frame as far as parts go outside of the Unique special model things .
I paid too much for Ms September 1918 but she is completely untouched and hardly shot .
Both are Smith 1917s of the Triple Lock type , there isn't enough information to determine w/o a letter whether Ms September was made by Smith or the Army only that it was made mid month . Math makes it 9/17/1918 plus or minus 2 days for actual work days . I was gung ho to get a letter ....... Just in time for that to go away to Cody ........ It just didn't feel right after that .
 
I have heard that bit about "423" running in some bottom-feeders, I just haven't given that a try to date. There IS a Bisley BH in 45 Colt in the safe that can digest the castings, I imagine--if the old mould casts big enough to clean up in a .454" H&I die. Gotta run the mould to get castings, elsewise all of this bit is conjecture. It WOULD be nice if the "423" ran in the SIG P-220 or the Series 80 Gold Cup, they both run HPs and SWC bullets (H&G #68 clones) flawlessly.
 
While Keith "designed" the 452423, the specifications were laid down by the chief engineer at Lyman. The #452374 or hardball profile was laid out then a flat nose and shoulder cut away from the profile. The nose hits the feed ramp at the right spot, and the front shoulder can headspace the short cases. But the extra volume of the bullet then resides inside the case and reduces the case volume. You are on you own reloading this bullet in 45ACP unless you have Sharps book or early Lyman manuals.
 
CZ93X62 said:
One New Year resolution I made was to re-acquire a 45 ACP revolver of some kind. I came close to snagging one of the S&W 625 variants at a local shop about 6 months ago, but like the Model 48 I balked upon a year ago, the frame contours on the Hillary Hole S&Ws all look distended and "wrong" to me. The red/white/blue stock set on the 625 I decided against also do it no favors. Grips are easily changed--chassis contours, not so much. And the multiple tales of woe concerning S&W Q/C are concerning as well. So--I dunno. Maybe a Ruger swap-cylinder BH is the best idea, those sometimes need a construction finish/refinement, but the chassis is usually sound. Grail Gun would be a 1917 of either make that was unmolested or their commercial equivalents, but those bring hefty tariffs these days. Buckshot recently scored a Uberti Cattleman in 45 ACP, and he likes it a bunch. The Cattleman and BH have the large advantage of being largely unaffected by CA anti-gun idiocies, too. At any rate, I need to give my new-to-me Lyman #452423 a platform to cast for.

Someone PLEASE tell me that I am not the only fool that snags a bullet mould or die set and THEN elects to find an arm to fit it.
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So... I am concerned about QA - why I have hesitated on ordering one sight unseen... I have a Ruger BH Flattop 45 Colt/45 ACP conv, and picked up an ugly but very accurate 1946 Brazilian Contract Smith 1917. 5 digit serial #, made in 1918. It has minor pitting, rust has been stopped, needed to get orig style grips and lanyard ring. But it shoots lights out with both 45 ACP and 45 AR! I am thrilled. AND why I am looking at the 625 with Moon clips!

AND - I have moulds AND die sets for guns I don't have yet! 38-55, and did the same with 32-20!
 
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