so waht ya doin today?

creosote

Well-Known Member
Finally got out of the house and went shooting.
Took the win. 94. The little 311 8 did good enough to think about adjusting the sites.
I have to thank Ben for the load.
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It was only 25 yards cuz I couldn't see the 50 yard target today.
The 45 cal. holes are from the fa 454.
First time I've pulled the trigger on it.
12 grains of universal was ok. 25 grains of 2400 changes the direction of the muzzle pretty quick.
I can add a bit more powder before my smile turns upside down.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Popped the wheel covers off the 57 Olds and grabbed the impact wrench. Before I tried loosening the nuts I saw L in a raised letter on the end of the studs. Oh caca, left hand threads? Sure enough, in theory to prevent the nuts from coming loose in motion. Left hand on the driver side, right hand on the passenger side. Disaster averted.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Some time ago I told of my wife's diagnosis with cancer. She fought so very hard, but lost the battle last evening. Enjoy every minute you possibly can with your loved ones.
I’m very sorry for your loss Rick. My apologies for responding so late.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Yup, don't know when they changed lug studs to all right handed. IIRC the one I broke was an off brand (Plym) auto from the early 50s. Ford never did that, at least after 31. Never changed a tire on that 52 plym wagon I made deliveries with.
Sorry I'm late also Rick, just saw that.
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
woulda been in 69, my 68 charger still had left handed nuts.
but for some reason I'm thinking they were on the passenger side.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
My first MG Midget had wire wheels and knock-offs (the later hexagon type, not the earlier eared kind). Driver's side were labeled "UN-DO" with an arrow pointing to the left, while those on the passenger side were labeled "UN-DO" with a right facing arrow.
Tire changing kit included a jack, knock-off spanner and a big enough lead hammer.

Spent part of a beautiful Fall day at the Laguna Seca track, walking about and watching some club's event -- BMW, Porsche, Camaro, Mustang, Miata, etc.
Thought for a moment I'd gone totally deaf, as one car approached a turn, braked, and accelerated. Oh, it's a Tesla Model S.
Next car made all the typical noises, proving I'm only partially deaf and the new aids are working as designed.
 

creosote

Well-Known Member
I still got the lead hammer from my 67 midget. It's had a lot of abuse since it was sold (three fuse positive ground smith junk) in 1976
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462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
I still got the lead hammer from my 67 midget. It's had a lot of abuse since it was sold (three fuse positive ground smith junk) in 1976
View attachment 18198
My first was a '68, the second a '71. Can't recall the number of fuses, but mine had a radio, so maybe four.
I froze the Smiths speedo past the 100 mark, guesstimating 105 mph, on a long straight and lonely stretch of Highway 46, West of Wasco and not too far East of where James Dean wrapped his Porsche round a tree.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Old plumbers saying: Your $hit is our bread and butter.

I made a pretty good living in the plumbing pipe fitting trade. Retired at 58, with full bennies.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Stopped at Scheels yesterday. I passed on primers, limit of 1K per customer and I didn’t need the ONE box of 209s they had. No rifle or pistol primers at all.
Powder didn’t look too bad but I don’t need powder for at least a decade.
Waiting line to look at firearms. Yes, a waiting line. No thank you.
Bullets- unless you want Hornady A-Max, Berger, or Sierra Matchking 175 gr 30s they had nothing.
Ammo was limited per customer but there was a few boxes of odd stuff on otherwise empty shelves. Like 5-6 boxes on 12 feet of shelves.

Yah, the ammo and primer shortage is real. Well, at the stores it is. I have a feeling most of us here are in good shape.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
?? Tin, acid-flux-core solder works great, not sure why you're having trouble? Sandpaper and acid paste flux and putting the heat where it will draw the solder into the joint are the keys to success, same as with 50/50 solder.

All I know is when my Dad thought me to solder a fitting onto a copper pipe all I had to do is clean then flux heat and touch the 50/50 solder to the joint in one place and it sucked in all the way around! very simple.
Now it seems that with the new solders I have to follow the entire joint around with the solder just to get it all sealed up
 

Ole_270

Well-Known Member
Next Wednesday starts our rifle deer season. After working at getting the 308 and 38-55 settled in with cast loads I was debating on which rifle to use for the longer reach stands. The last few years I've pretty much stayed with the 250 Savage and 257 Roberts rifles that are my favorites. Finally decided to dig out the South Carolina made M70 Fwt 7-08 topped with a VXIII 2.5-8 to see if it was close enough for use, I haven't used it on deer in maybe 10 years. Loaded with 139 Hornady flat base Interlocks over a stiff load of Ramshot Big Game it should work fairly well.
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First three quick shots at 100 with no time allowed for cooling. Guess it's close enough
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Three .284 holes nearly touching, yep, that'll do!

Jim, like John wrote,, propane makes it difficult. MAPP is better, but acetylene is far better. You need to get the heat in quickly so the heat differential causes the solder so flow INTO the joint. If the whole area is uniform the solder will tend to hang out where it is applied....on the outside. Taking too long to heat the area allows the heat to normalize throughout the fitting and then you really have to pile on the solder to flood the joint.

I was taught to pull out about 18" of solder and bend the last 4-6" at a 90⁰ angle so the tip reaches the far side of the joint. As soon as it starts melting, let it suck some into the joint, remove the heat, and then quickly trace around to the front side and back to the back.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
IIRC I was 7 when we had to add pipe for a new second story bath room. Used an electric clamp-on heater. Clamp around the pipe which was previously fluxed, when solder just started to melt you moved the wire around the joint and it was sucked in. When you got a slight drip, done. It does hurt when that drip goes down your long sleeve and you can't shake it out. never was good at the okum/lead/cast iron sewer joints.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Yah, the ammo and primer shortage is real. Well, at the stores it is. I have a feeling most of us here are in good shape.
Most of us have one or more component & ammo droughts during our time in this hobby field. 2020 has just generally SUCKED in most venues of life. Still no murder hornets, so THAT is a positive non-development.
 
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JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Yes Ian,
I think you found my trouble spot! Too much and too even of a heat!
I know that for a fact!....."When the screw stops.... just give it a turn more!!!!!" :rolleyes: