Three things come to mind. First, don't bother unless you have a 2# Rowel. Reason has to do with keeping the alloy temperature constant and sometimes needing more reserve volume to "pour heat" as Rick refers to it on the sprue plate after the cavities are full. You need a lot of lead to keep a four-cavity .35 caliber mould happy.
Second, there are a lot of little nooks and crannies in a Cramer-type HP mould and pressure-casting with a ladle can cause a lot of flashing as alloy is forced into those tiny gaps and cause buildup, hangups, and an unintentionally "Beagled" mould. I recommend sluicing the alloy into the cavities with bout a half-inch gap between spout and sprue hole, and making the alloy "spurt" out to rinse away dross and bubbles that tend to collect under the sprue plate during any kind of pour. Further, rotating the mould to couple with the ladle and then righting the two together slows down the process and you lose a lot of head because you must wait for the previous sprue to freeze before tilting the mould to fill the next cavity. With a four-cavity, obviously that means you have to wait through four full sprue freezes before you can open the mould.
Third, until you get good at it, a ladle my be a bit frustrating because it is difficult to do quickly even if you don't contact-pour. Speed is of the essence with a multi-hole HP mould.
I use a bottom-pour for almost everything. Some things are best done with a ladle, but technique can make those very few. A bottom pour is very fast and very effective at filling a bunch of cavities with precision. Actually, so is a big ladle once you get used to it, so it's most definitely worth mastering both and then YOU can decide which is best for a particular task.
