Tip of the day
- Thread starter Snakeoil
- Start date
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
462
California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Qualifier: I'm not a woodworker, nor a metalworker, nor a mechanic, nor an engineer. I don't have the patience for intricate work. Like John Browning, my ideas are worked out in my head and as I go, and not put down on paper. There's probably a Bubba limb on the family tree.
Pulling crimped cast handgun bullets usually requires a lot of whacks of an inertial puller on a 2"X4" or 4"X4". If pulling more than one bullet, it quickly becomes a long and boring process, and then there's the separating the bullet and powder, and wiping powder off the lube. Also, collet-type pullers never seem to firmly grasp a lead bullet.
M2 A1 cast lead bullet puller.
Raise the ram, insert round in shellholder, partially lower ram, grasp bullet with dikes, finish lowering the ram.
Hmmm . . . seems some of Bubba's genes remained on the family tree . . .
It works, though.
Pulling crimped cast handgun bullets usually requires a lot of whacks of an inertial puller on a 2"X4" or 4"X4". If pulling more than one bullet, it quickly becomes a long and boring process, and then there's the separating the bullet and powder, and wiping powder off the lube. Also, collet-type pullers never seem to firmly grasp a lead bullet.
M2 A1 cast lead bullet puller.
Raise the ram, insert round in shellholder, partially lower ram, grasp bullet with dikes, finish lowering the ram.
Hmmm . . . seems some of Bubba's genes remained on the family tree . . .
It works, though.
glassparman
"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
I'm pulling down about a 1000 7.62x45 for the VZ52 rifle. They are steel cased but the cases are a bit rusty. The projectiles eventually come out with the whack-a-mole hammer but they take about 20 whacks each.
Like Popper says, it is a pain. In my case, these projectiles are a specific weight and size for this rifle and bore. Nobody makes them so I go throught the motions just to keep shooting it.
Like Popper says, it is a pain. In my case, these projectiles are a specific weight and size for this rifle and bore. Nobody makes them so I go throught the motions just to keep shooting it.
L Ross
Well-Known Member
Push them a tiny bit into the case with a seating die to break loose the grip or any sealant. They'll probably take fewer whacks after that.
glassparman
"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Thanks for that! Yep, tried that as well. They are for the most part just nasty looking. Some of the cases are actually rusted through in some parts.
Interestingly enough, the bullets tumble up nice and we're not affected by the rusty case.
These are military surplus, steel core, 130gr, .310 boat tail. Nobody has ever made commercial ammo for this rifle but it is a straight shooter! Just gotta do what I gotta do to salvage the bullets.
Interestingly enough, the bullets tumble up nice and we're not affected by the rusty case.
These are military surplus, steel core, 130gr, .310 boat tail. Nobody has ever made commercial ammo for this rifle but it is a straight shooter! Just gotta do what I gotta do to salvage the bullets.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
I realize I'm probably the only one here that gives a damn about breech seating. But here goes anyway.
Breech seating requires that you bring loaded cases to the range along with separate bullets. Cases are easy. Just use an ammo box. But bullets can be a challenge. When you add a competitive match to the mix, it could mean mutiple boxes of stuff on the bench along with the other stuff you normally have for a match (spotting sheets, score sheets, sight settings, breech seater, etc.).
So, today I started thinking about a solution and decided one ammo box to carry both bullets and charged cases was the way to go. I thought I might be able to squeeze 60 cases and 60 bullets into a 100 round MTM plastic ammo box. Caliber is .38-55 in my case. But you might be able to get this to work for .45-70 if you are so inclined. Smaller calibers like .32-40 or .30-30 would be a snap.
I took the inside dimensions of that MTM ammo box with the 100 round insert removed. Made a drawing to establish the centerlines for 60 cases and 60 bullets to fit in that envelop. Went back into the shop to compare the dwg. to the box and realized it might be much simpler than I had envisioned. I had planned to make a new insert for the box. But that was not necessary.
I ended up making an insert/adapter that fit on top of the existing cartridge insert. I needed the back 6 rows for 60 cases. That left the front 4 rows for bullets. I measured the room that was left and then compared it to the bullet portion of the drawing I made. The sizes were identical. So, all I needed to do was make the bullet insert from a piece of 3/4" pine. I have a bunch of primed pine lumber left over from a coffered ceiling I put in the master bedroom. This stuff is finger jointed lumber that comes primed to hide the joints. The good thing is it is dead straight and dead stable. And when you drill it, it does not tear apart like some softwoods. Here is the final product.
Before showing you the other sides of the insert, here is a view of the box with the OEM 100 round insert. Note the small ribs on the sides that locate the insert in the box. We will use these to secure the bullet insert.
This is the bottom of the insert. Note the 6 slots cut on the front face and the two side to engage the ribs in the box.
Here is one of the side of the insert. Note the 5 deg angle cut into the forward end. This is required to mate up to the wall of the box, which is made at 5 deg. You can also see the slot for the positioning rib.
Here is a view looking at the front edge. Again, you can see the two slots for the positioning ribs in the box and note the 5 deg angle cut into each end. Lastly, there is a radius to the inside corners of the box. So, for a nice tight fit, you need to radius that front end to mate up with the inside of the box.
The ribs keep the insert from sliding in the box. Plus they also "grip" the insert to keep it from falling out. I can turn the box upside down and the insert stays put.
Oh, and pay no attention to those undercuts made along the bottom of the insert. I had not pushed the OEM insert back in all the way and when I first started to fit the insert to the box, I thought I needed to provide relieve for a small shoulder. But when I realized that the insert was not home, I pushed it in, and that little shoulder became the actuall sides of the box that the insert mated against. Only you and I know that cut is there. Nobody will see it with the insert in place. It will be our little secret.
Now that I look at it, I think I'm going to have to paint that insert back to match the OEM insert. It's already primed, after all.
Breech seating requires that you bring loaded cases to the range along with separate bullets. Cases are easy. Just use an ammo box. But bullets can be a challenge. When you add a competitive match to the mix, it could mean mutiple boxes of stuff on the bench along with the other stuff you normally have for a match (spotting sheets, score sheets, sight settings, breech seater, etc.).
So, today I started thinking about a solution and decided one ammo box to carry both bullets and charged cases was the way to go. I thought I might be able to squeeze 60 cases and 60 bullets into a 100 round MTM plastic ammo box. Caliber is .38-55 in my case. But you might be able to get this to work for .45-70 if you are so inclined. Smaller calibers like .32-40 or .30-30 would be a snap.
I took the inside dimensions of that MTM ammo box with the 100 round insert removed. Made a drawing to establish the centerlines for 60 cases and 60 bullets to fit in that envelop. Went back into the shop to compare the dwg. to the box and realized it might be much simpler than I had envisioned. I had planned to make a new insert for the box. But that was not necessary.
I ended up making an insert/adapter that fit on top of the existing cartridge insert. I needed the back 6 rows for 60 cases. That left the front 4 rows for bullets. I measured the room that was left and then compared it to the bullet portion of the drawing I made. The sizes were identical. So, all I needed to do was make the bullet insert from a piece of 3/4" pine. I have a bunch of primed pine lumber left over from a coffered ceiling I put in the master bedroom. This stuff is finger jointed lumber that comes primed to hide the joints. The good thing is it is dead straight and dead stable. And when you drill it, it does not tear apart like some softwoods. Here is the final product.
Before showing you the other sides of the insert, here is a view of the box with the OEM 100 round insert. Note the small ribs on the sides that locate the insert in the box. We will use these to secure the bullet insert.
This is the bottom of the insert. Note the 6 slots cut on the front face and the two side to engage the ribs in the box.
Here is one of the side of the insert. Note the 5 deg angle cut into the forward end. This is required to mate up to the wall of the box, which is made at 5 deg. You can also see the slot for the positioning rib.
Here is a view looking at the front edge. Again, you can see the two slots for the positioning ribs in the box and note the 5 deg angle cut into each end. Lastly, there is a radius to the inside corners of the box. So, for a nice tight fit, you need to radius that front end to mate up with the inside of the box.
The ribs keep the insert from sliding in the box. Plus they also "grip" the insert to keep it from falling out. I can turn the box upside down and the insert stays put.
Oh, and pay no attention to those undercuts made along the bottom of the insert. I had not pushed the OEM insert back in all the way and when I first started to fit the insert to the box, I thought I needed to provide relieve for a small shoulder. But when I realized that the insert was not home, I pushed it in, and that little shoulder became the actuall sides of the box that the insert mated against. Only you and I know that cut is there. Nobody will see it with the insert in place. It will be our little secret.
Now that I look at it, I think I'm going to have to paint that insert back to match the OEM insert. It's already primed, after all.
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462
California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Sometimes, the suction created as the bullet is pulled clear of the case will leave a few kernels of 2400 laying round the press, though not so with stick powders.
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Hey snakeoil.... I have a 38-55 case with a wood dowel securely emplaced that I use. Hammer handle for added case push if needed.
But not adjustable.
But not adjustable.
Snakeoil
Well-Known Member
I assume you are referring to your method for breech seating. Yes, a plugged case a common method provided the action has enough camming action. Or as in your case, you have a hammer with you. On a 44-1/2 Stevens, the plugged case is the way to go. I made an adustable plugged case for a friend at Wilton for his .25-20SS. Works great with that action.
Hope all is well with you in Peru. I see that the overthrow of the current El Presidente has huge protests in the streets and the news said there are quite a few American tourists stranded at Machu Pichu. Stay safe and keep your head down.