Trouble seating gas checks ? ?

[Ben]

Do you ever have trouble getting gas checks to seat themselves squarely on the base of the bullet ? For me, a high % of the time, this is caused by either a gas check that is too small or a gas check shank on a bullet that is too large, or a bit of both.

This little .17 cent home - made tool can be a real game changer.
I have one for 7 mm, .30 cal., 8 mm, and .35 cal.
I wouldn't be without them.
I make mine from a 5" long steel bolt that is a " tad " larger than the inside of the gas check I want to flare. I cut the threads off with a hack saw. Square the end with a flat file. Then cut a slight taper on the end of the bolt ( see photo below ). A little bit of trial and error will get you a tool that will work perfectly each and every time.

Here is a pic of my .30 cal. gas check flare tool.

It makes all the difference in the world in your ability too seat a gas check squarely onto the shank of your bullet with your lube sizer.

Will the tool allow you to make accurate ammo ? You bet. My Savage .308 Win., 5 rounds at 50 yards yesterday :

Ben

 

[KHornet]

Brad made me a set of gas check expanders for all the cals I load that works in a
C-press. Really makes a difference particularly with 22's, and lee 55 grainers that
have fat bases.

Paul

 

[S Mac]

Great idea Ben. I bought a 311041 used a couple of years ago, the previous owner had lapped the shank portion of the mould for some reason, talk about a bear to seat checks. I need to make one of these.

 

[Ben]

Fellows:

Like I said, this little tool is a game changer.

Ben

 

[9.3X62AL]

Yes sir. Lyman castings' gas check shanks DO NOT get along with Hornady gas checks. 30 and 35 calibers are the worst offenders for me, and I've developed counter-measures for those. Ben's little tapper is a GREAT idea.

 

[Dale53]

Ben;
That looks like a great idea.

Dale53

 

[Chris]

Outstanding. Will make one shortly.

 

[yodogsandman]

My thumb gets raw from trying to seat gas checks on the shanks of some bullets. I'm going to make some of those! Thanks Ben!

 

[Rick]

Al at NOE was supposed to come out with a check sizer based on Brad's design. Might be worth checking with him to find out.

 

[Brad]

http://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/flair-tool-mod-ii.638/

I started by turning a toool similar to what Ben made. Worked well. I just grew weary of the tapping with a hammer.

Al hasn't contacted me in quite some time, not sure the status of production on his end.

 

[JWFilips]

Well I have one of Brad's 8 mm Gas check tools and it is a Godsend. While not a fast production tool It sure gets the job done.
The best part is I do not have to anneal gas checks for my 8 mm's anymore ( really hate annealing those little buggers)

 

[Ben]

A slight flare on a gas check does no harm.
Certainly makes life a lot simpler.

Ben

 

[Brad]

A flare beats an off kilter check or shaved bullet any day. Only issue I have ever found is trouble with some size dies allowing easy entry if the flare is enough to hang up on the entrance to a snug dies. I recently cut a bit more entrance bevel on a size die for Paul for just that reason.

 

[KHornet]

And it worked slick. No more problems with 22GC's.

 

[waco]

The tool Brad made me for 30cal is awesome! Thanks again Brad. I owe ya one....

 

[9.3X62AL]

I spent a few minutes doing a "tooling check" within the garage. 2 moves within a year's time can complicate warehousing, let's just say. Thankfully, I used some foresight during the most recent move--and was able to locate my files--my vise--and raw materials (bolts and such) within about 5 minutes' time. This weekend will be spent plagiarizing Ben's good work in a few sizes that still cause a bit of grief when gas checks become a part of the program. Smallest first--the 25 caliber. A recent Lyman #257420 gives me gas at gas check time. Its older/larger brother (#257312) fits Hornady checks about perfectly. Lyman dimensional poetry occasionally provides an advantage.....maybe twice or thrice per decade, but it does occur.

 

[freebullet]

Sad, I never did get with Brad to get one for my 30's. Need that for a couple molds.

 

[Rick]

Al, here's a tip for ya. When I started making these punches about 30 years ago instead of bolts I used center punches. Because of their tapered design use the grinder to shorten in until it's the proper diameter for the caliber your making, then grind a slight chamfer on the end. The only real trick to watch out for is to be sure to get the ground off end square to the center line of the punch so it sizes the checks accurately. I rigged a jig with a drill press vice and suare was pretty easy. I also went slow so as not to over heat the punch. I size the checks on a piece of 5/16" aluminum plate and use a rubber hammer, doesn't take much.
.

 

[Brad]

Sad, I never did get with Brad to get one for my 30's. Need that for a couple molds.

I can whip one up for you. No problem at all. Gives me an excuse to stop work on the bathroom for a bit!

 

[Intheshop]

No problems here seating them.Was going to post about using a DP (drill press) ,makeing accurate use of the tool however.Seeing mentioned above.

I've said it before,moved a 17" DP out of the shop(bigger,badder 20" moved in),into reloading rm.Questioning how much usage before sending it down the rd.

Now,can't see,NOT having one in there.It has some distinct advantages over the presses.Get one with a "hole" in the table...vs not.You won't be running coolant more than likely,so get the hole.It allows for "pass through" operations that is gravity assisted,haha.