About died

fiver

Well-Known Member
that's per hundred..

i'm pretty familiar with the markup percentage ACE uses,,, many would be surprised.
i sure was a time or two, and quickly learned when to use the 'Employee' discount and when not to.

i can make a pretty good guess at a brick of Win. primers costing them less than 60 bucks.... probably much, much less.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I used to deal with a vendor who's profit margins were easy to figure out since I could buy many of the same parts from the same suppliers that he did. He simply doubled his cost, then gave us a 10% "trade" discount. The auto parts stores around here do something similar, their "retail" price is double the price they charge us. However, nobody pays "retail" anymore, but this pricing allows them to have in-store "promotions".
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
When I was rebuilding and racing Hudson cars, the brake parts were Borg Wagner. If you ordered a "Hudson" number the price was doubled. If you order an "American Motors" or "Jeep" or "Studebaker" part number is was half price for the same part.
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
I had a Jeep CJ7. Brake calipers for the Jeep were $27 and the rebuild kit was $14. If you bought Ford Galaxy calipers they were $12.95. Part number cross references are your friend. They are the exact same part.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
I had a Jeep CJ7. Brake calipers for the Jeep were $27 and the rebuild kit was $14. If you bought Ford Galaxy calipers they were $12.95. Part number cross references are your friend. They are the exact same part.
100%! This was something I learned (drilled into me) before I even drove!! Working with my Cousins and Uncle. Ford parts are cheaper then Lincoln or Mercury. Chevy cheaper then Cadillac, Buick or Pontiac. (Often)

Companies like AMC had many parts from all makers... it also often got you a part when part for your vehicle was out of stock.

CW
 

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
I’ve been told that when they ask you 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive the price jumps up for the exact same part number. If it’s a 4x4 it costs more, right?
 

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
So to get around all this price crap . . . Someone yell at me as to whether I can use SRP or SRMP on my .357 loading.

I know, I know, so much on the web about using the right components and "work up yer load".

I have quite a few bricks of small rifle primers to include magnum flavors. I can't find small pistol magnum primers within a reasonable price so I thought I would ask you fellas who have tried it . . . if you are willing to admit it.

Ok, let the chastising begin! (Should I start a new thread?)

Mike
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I have quite a few bricks of small rifle primers to include magnum flavors. I can't find small pistol magnum primers within a reasonable price so I thought I would ask you fellas who have tried it . . . if you are willing to admit it.


Mike
Mike, I use SRP Federal #205 all the time in my S&W and Colt revolvers (and Martini rifle) because the firing pin strike to plenty hard. I don't load top loads anyway, so there has never been a problem. Note: never tried the #205 with cups made for AR's.

The problem is trying to load them in pistols with light firing pin strikes (pocket pistols and some self-loaders).
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
So to get around all this price crap . . . Someone yell at me as to whether I can use SRP or SRMP on my .357 loading.

I know, I know, so much on the web about using the right components and "work up yer load".

I have quite a few bricks of small rifle primers to include magnum flavors. I can't find small pistol magnum primers within a reasonable price so I thought I would ask you fellas who have tried it . . . if you are willing to admit it.

Ok, let the chastising begin! (Should I start a new thread?)

Mike
Absolutely agree with Ric on this one.

Between the depression mentality of Appalachian grandparents, most of whose male siblings died of black lung, and the "end times" mentality of my (step) dad (still love him), I have not fully escaped the deeply embedded psyche of being prepared for the worst. My 357 mag main cartridge (carbine/revolver combo) project has driven a LOT of experimentation regarding the logistics of reloading.

I CAN tell you THIS: as long as you're not an idiot*, you can use small rifle primers in most 357 Mag loads. Obviously, you want to reduce a charge before trying it, but from sub-sonic, 38 Special-level wadcutter target loads to the top-end-plus, heavy-bullet, "real" magnum loads, it works just fine.

The only caveat is that SOME revolvers won't set off some of the hardier-cupped rifle primers with 100% reliability. If I cannot have a decent trigger AND set off CCI or Wolf primers, the gun goes away. The Contender doesn't seem to care.

The absolute finest accuracy may not always occur with a rifle primer, but for some loads, the absolute best accuracy is not necessary. This is NOT to say that rifle primers are necessarily less accurate though, because most times they are dead-even with pistol primers. I shoot loads from 3.3 grains of Unique, behind a 148 grain WC, to 190 grain RFNs to 1800 fps, using 300 MP. ALL of my loads are meant to be useaeble in my little 5-shot revolvers. My Charter, Mag Pug 357 and my Taurus 605, 357 both set these primers off just fine, but I HAD a Taurus 85 which would not always set the rifle primers off, so someone else owns it now.

I keep a very small stash of LARGE PISTOL PRIMER 357 cases for the sake of not having all my eggs in one basket. I wish I had a bunch more of those. I wish I had a bunch of 30 American cases too. I envy the folks who shoot the 45 ACP and the LPP/SPP brass situation, which accommodate a level of flexibility you don't get with just any cartridge.

*Any idiot can lose fingers, blind himself or die at his own hand by hand-loading without respecting the matter of a bit of sound judgement in ANY decision.
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
if your gun will set them off they'll work.
if they work they'll well,, work.
just put a little less other stuff in there.
 

glassparman

"OK, OK, I'm going as fast as I don't want to go!"
Thanks to all of you for the advice . . . albeit without the chastising! LOL

Jeff, I have never seen .357 Mag brass with large primers. I'll have to go hunting as I have several thousand large pistol and large pistol magnum primers. Of course I'll rework my load data.

As much as I agree with all that is said, I think I'll hold the rifle primers until I really need them in .357

If one of you were closer, I'd do some horse trading. Maybe when I move to OKC in the spring.

Mike
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
Thanks to all of you for the advice . . . albeit without the chastising! LOL

Jeff, I have never seen .357 Mag brass with large primers. I'll have to go hunting as I have several thousand large pistol and large pistol magnum primers. Of course I'll rework my load data.

As much as I agree with all that is said, I think I'll hold the rifle primers until I really need them in .357

If one of you were closer, I'd do some horse trading. Maybe when I move to OKC in the spring.

Mike

These are OLD. As I understand it, the 357 was first loaded with LPP but maybe just Peters loaded them that way, but not for very long. I have all of 18 of them, but I'm hanging onto them. Who knows? Someday I may be out of small primers and need ammo.

One of the more prominent gun writers acknowledged them years ago, and I think Brian Pearce did more recently. Not much history on them that I know. I just knew they made them and recognized them while salvaging old ammo from estate auction stuff the auctioneer didn't want to handle. They were clean, no corrosion - good shape, so I annealed the mouths and loaded them with a moderate cast 357 load and shot them each to see if the brass was still OK. Looked as good as any new stuff I have, so I cleaned them, bagged them and stashed them.

Wish I had a couple hundred of them!

Pretty obvious difference when you look at them:

LPP 357 Cases 01.jpg
 

Fiddler

Active Member
I just did a test of 5 different brands/vintage of SRP in 3 handguns. The 38 S&W and Kimber 45 fired all the time, ( they did have light hits! ) the Keltec missed on one brand. I'm not competing or hunting any more just plinking so If there is a misfire it doesn't matter.