Cylinder throat reaming

Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Yes, Accurate will make what you want, in a short time, in aluminum, with up to five cavities. Not cheap, though. If you had a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck and a test indicator, you could grab a Lee mould and remove the gas check shank from all six cavities. Just sayin'.
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have considered that Ian. I have considered it..
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have a wife to spend my money, she doesn't need the help!
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
if your just gonna whap zing ammo at 25 yds I would draw up a light weight 135gr SWC bullet at accurate and run with that.
just shrink down the nose length, the drive bands, and lube groove of the 358477 or a keith bullet until you get 3 equal band lengths.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
I just don't want your lathe to sit and get rusty, Brad ;)

36-155K or 36-158V would be my choices for a revolver that will print properly with them. The Lee 125RF 6-cavity is on my very short "never part with" list; an absolute favorite for my .38s.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
Hey,Brad:
you do know that the HM-2 9mm mold will work in the 38 cal's.
I drew it up with enough diameter so that it could work for both rounds, and the nose has enough diameter to be a bore rider.
it will even feed in a lever gun, anyway that's why the nose shape is what it is.
I forgot you have that one already.
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I may well try it. Crimp on front band. I have a fair number cast up already.
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Ian said:
I just don't want your lathe to sit and get rusty, Brad ;)

36-155K or 36-158V would be my choices for a revolver that will print properly with them. The Lee 125RF 6-cavity is on my very short "never part with" list; an absolute favorite for my .38s.
Click to expand...
If you saw how much oil is on the lathe you would understand rust isn't an issue.
 
pokute

pokute

Active Member
You went a little hog-wild with the reamer there. When reaming by hand, you want to go slow and easy - Maybe a half turn at a time, cleaning the reamer of chips each time. A reamer should leave a very smooth surface - It's a finishing tool. Took me ~20 minutes to ream each chamber on my last similar job, and I was removing a lot less material. Came out mirror bright.
 
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Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have no reason to disagree with that assessment.
I learned a bunch doing this. Next one I do I will go slower.

Most important to me is the elimination of leading and dramatic improvement in accuracy with a good load in 357 brass.
 
pokute

pokute

Active Member
I would give the cylinder throats a high polish. You want them to see mostly a film of lube, nothing else. The base of the bullet will be expanded at least a half a thousandth by any load that can get it out the barrel. The job you did on your forcing cone was perfect, so I'd expect you to get great accuracy with any number of bullets as long as you don't overdrive them (A common fault of mine).
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
The MP 359640 HP was driven by a healthy charge of WC820. Not sure what it was but I know it runs 1500 fps or better in the Marlin. That bullet is a plain base but that didn't seem to bother it any.

A high polish would require some thinking on how to get it. A split rod with emery works but I want no further enlargement, just a polishing.

For now I will leave it alone. If nothing else simply firing more rounds will smooth out any high spots.maybe fire another 100 jacketed loads.
 
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