There's no mystery to it.
Ream the through-hole .002" smaller than the full bore dimension at the end of the throat taper, call that measurement A.
Measure the taper of the rifle's throat (pound cast, precision measurements, and some basic trig), call that angle A.
Measure the throat entrance diameter, deduct .0005", call that measurement B.
Turn and polish your D-reamer with a pilot that's a full .001" smaller than your measurement A.
Grind/turn/file a taper that matches angle A.
Turn the reamer shank above the angle down to exactly measurement B, with enough length to sink the bullet past the gas check in the die and allow for some die entrance taper. Grind the D part away on the taper and measurement B part of the reamer shank only.
Relieve the back side of the reamer and put a rough edge on the cutting side the usual way.
Heat the reamer to a medium-orange and oil-quench. Put in an oven at 400F for an hour and slow-cool.
Turn an ejector pin to .001" smaller than your actual dimension A and bore the end to match your bullet nose profile exactly, full-depth (razor edge around the cup).
Stone the edge and cut your die. Polish to 600-grit, wax the inside, and check your work with a bullet.
Now you will have a die that draws the bullet to fill the throat and still have the very tip of the nose "riding the lands" (total misnomer, it's like sliding down a razor blade, i.e. no effective guidance/support at HV) but it will allow the bullet to chamber easily.
Seat the bullet 10-20 thousandths off of the ball seat so it can get a head start and has a little wiggle room to self-align.